View Full Version : TR2/3/3A TR3 Header Question

11-20-2006, 09:07 AM
I have headers that were made custom and I don't think they are fitting quite right. They are real close to the frame.. I mean within 1/8th of an inch. In some ways I don't think that should be a problem as the engine will torque the other direction away from the frame...

Has anyone else had this problem with full length headers? Is there another brand I need to change to??.. How about the short headers that Moss carries??

I know that was a lot but I need some help here...


Don Elliott
11-20-2006, 09:25 AM
Could you have a machine shop mill the face where the header is mounted onto the side of the head at a slight angle (say 2 to 5 degrees) so the bottom curve will have more clearance with the frame ?

11-20-2006, 10:10 AM

Thanks, that was my first thought also and I may resort to that before I go to a big expense to get new ones... It would be a shame to do all the work I did to the head and not get the benefits due to not being able to fit the headers.

11-20-2006, 08:15 PM
I am not answering your question, but I am curious who made you headers. I am also in Texas and I am looking for a full length set.


11-20-2006, 08:43 PM
They were ordered and custom built by a TSI. He used someone that I don't know. I called Ted today and he said he would get back to me soon... We'll see

Don Elliott
11-20-2006, 08:46 PM
Maybe you (or Ted) could heat then up with a red hot welding torch and bend them a bit more, providing they don't interfere with something towards the other side.

11-20-2006, 08:55 PM
Roy, how much play do you have in your engine mounts? Can you shift the engine back, forward, up or down? Your transmission mounts should follow and your splined drive shaft will allow fore/aft movement. Might be easier to move the engine a bit.
I dropped my engine a bit for better header clearance.

11-20-2006, 09:09 PM
Thats right Roy - Hermans rear tranny mounting brackets are slotted. So using Bills idea to move the engine mounts, loosen the rear mounts too and try to move the engine/tranny forward to add header clearance.

And Herman has the TR driveshaft locked at maximum length; the movement of the special HVDA tranny yoke spline over the gearbox output shaft adjusts the length.

11-20-2006, 09:51 PM
I remounted them tonight and tightened the bottom bolts first followed by the top bolts with manifold. Then I put my feet on them pushed toward the engine with everything I had. I'm about an 1/8 to 1/4 inch off the frame and about a half inch off the engine. Is this ok?? I think so as the engine will torque the other way. Is it going to come back after I start it and it heats up?? See attachment picture.. Maybe I'm just looking for something that is not going to be there... If it doesn't touch should I feel comfortable??

11-20-2006, 10:20 PM
Roy, The edge of the frame at that point looks like the inside of the u-channel. You can just grind a little radius off the edge of the frame part that skicks out toward the header to get more clearance. If the frame inside edge faces away from the header, then you can't grind but it looks like it's the other way around.

11-20-2006, 10:23 PM
Yea, I think I could grind off a little as this is the cannel side... May go with that with what I came up with tonight...