View Full Version : TR6 TR-6 Engine Lifting Mount Bolts - Leaking?

11-05-2006, 03:53 PM
Ok, here's a good one; I removed all the smog gear on my '76 and the rear engine hoist bracket had some other smog mounts which made it kind of ugly. So I removed it and replaced the two bolts that held it into the rear of the block below the head. It seems now, that the bottom one might be leaking. Does anyone know if the threads for these bolts enter any pressurized oil galleys? I would have thought not. Thanks.

11-05-2006, 04:18 PM
Put a fiber or steel/rubber washer behind it and see what happens. Too, you are now driving it in about the thickness of the bracket deeper. Would that matter?


11-05-2006, 04:21 PM
Isn't that located right below where the cylinder head oil feed line would go? It may very well be an oil galley area in the block that carries on to the head. Which may explain an annoying leak that I have in that area, but could never see where it was coming from. I thought that the oil line feed kit that I installed was leaking, but could never feel any oil under it after I replaced the copper gasket.

11-05-2006, 04:39 PM
You guys are fast - thanks. Yes, Paul it's directly beneath the head oil feed line and I just tightened that up a few minutes ago and, yes, mine also felt dry. Oddly, the hoist bracket, now removed, was slapped right up against the block and that would seem pretty sloppy of the TR folks to mount such a bracket into a hole that's attached to an active oil galley. If you look on the block, you can actually see it's got a little extra metal cast onto it to accept these bolts - seems odd indeed that a galley would be that close to the exterior of the block. Agree, a washer is the next step - naturally the bottom most bolt knocks up against the throttle shaft.

11-05-2006, 04:48 PM
Hi Ned,

It is possible that with the thickness of the lift bracket removed that the bolt was able to crack the water jacket. It might have been a little too long or there may have been water or dirt in the hole. Shorten the bolt by an eight of an inch or maybe a little more and find a fiber or copper washer for the bolt. A small amount of pipe dope on the threads may also be a good idea. That should make all well again.

You might also consider removing the part that held the air pump line and reinstalling the bracket (with sealant). You might want to pull the engine some time in the future.

11-05-2006, 05:01 PM
I looked to find an earlier bracker but they are N/A. I could always remount the old one if I need to yank the motor. Even if I cracked a water jacket, any solution would come from the exterior of the engine no? So pulling it wouldn't necessarily be the answer. I'll remove the bolt. If it's wet down its length we'll know something is up. Thank.

11-05-2006, 08:05 PM
Well since you were all so kind to commment, I thought I'd tell you what I discovered. Removal of the bottom bolt did show it was wet, in fact I got a slight "pisst" sound when I first loosened it indicating that it was under a bit of pressure from the other side. This concerned me and I wondered if like Tom said above had I fractured a water jacket or oil galley. The bolt I reinserted from the original assembly is 3/4" long from the bottom of the head to the end. I originally put it in with a lock washer, 1/16" inch. So it tunneled in probably 11/16's before stopping. As an experiment, I screwed in a longer bolt and sank it - by hand - to 3/4". It probably could have gone slightly deeper if I'd put a wrench to it. So arguably I don't think I bottomed out the first screw and breeched a galley, or jacket. Like Paul above, I've always wondered why the area above and to the rear of the fuel pump seemed to collect oil. I've been cleaning it for years along with the area on top of the block, below the head, where the tranny connect. I discarded it as maybe a leak from the oil pressure line, whatever. I suppose this problem is not limited to airpump equipped cars since this is a drilling in the block. Someone correct me if I am wrong. Anyway, I reinstalled a shorter 1/2" screw, in both holes, complete with fiber washer (bottom only), flat outer washer, and Permatex. I'll fire it up tomorrow. Thanks to all.

11-05-2006, 08:10 PM
Thank you! Without this discussion, I would have continued to look in the wrong area for the leak. I will use the copper washers that fit on the oil feed line bolt that goes into the back of the head which are available from TRF. Not the one that is supplied with the feed line kit, but the heavier washer for cars without it or "stock", so to speak. Naturally, some thread sealer will go in as well.

11-05-2006, 08:21 PM
It is a bit mystifying though isn't it? Why tap so far into the block that you permit a leak? Although they did it up front with the waterpump didn't they? Paul, if you happen to remember, email me the part # for the copper washers, as I'd rather use them than the fiber one I installed. tbird15@optonline.net Thanks.

11-05-2006, 10:19 PM
TRF part # 500469, page 29, Blue Book, if they ask. Get several, they're cheap. After compressed once, you shouldn't reuse unless emergency.

Let me / us know how you make out.

11-05-2006, 11:41 PM

11-06-2006, 11:02 AM
You might want to check out the pressure sealing washers on this site if you still have a leak https://www.parker.com/sg/literature/pdf/CSS6431.pdf. or o-ring sealed screws at this site https://longlok.com/pdf/handbook.pdf.

I have used both in pressure and high vacuum sealing applications. Phil

11-17-2006, 04:09 PM
Ned, did this ever get fixed? Did the gaskets seal the bolts properly and stop the leak?