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LeeMcKee
11-01-2006, 07:57 AM
Hello All,
Does anyone one know a good source for billit cranks here in the states?... Hap perhaps?
Thanks
Lee

Tim Hollister
11-01-2006, 10:43 AM
Somehow I'd bet this one is going to come up. Great reputation with the racers but reported as slow at times so plan ahead. Never used them myself though as I've yet to order a billet crank.

Moldex Crank Shaft Inc
25229 W Warren St
Dearborn Heights, MI , 48127-2148
Phone: 313-561-7676
FAX: 313-561-0724

Products Description: Manufactures motor vehicle crankshaft assemblies

Tim

rileyimp
11-01-2006, 02:17 PM
Moldex is the best source, but they can be very slow. It seems that they run certain items and shelve them. When they are sold out they then schedule another run that could take up to six months to get in to the rotation. But they are the best!!!

JerryB
11-01-2006, 03:24 PM
Kellog also does good work.

It might depend on the application.......size etc...some companies are better suited to railroad diesel pieces.

Hap Waldrop
11-02-2006, 07:12 AM
My vote would be for Moldex as well, one neat thing about being in the biz is you get your hands on some neat stuff. I sourced a new 948 Sprite unit from them about two years ago, it was on the shelf and I had it in a matter of days. A year later I ordered another one and it took almost three months, so the advice to plan ahead is a good idea. I also had my hands on a few Fardon Engineering billet cranks out of the UK, nice pieces as well, looked totally different than the Moldex cranks, I heard even greater nightmares on wait times from them. Now I'm speaking about about MG/AH A-series cranks, can't really vouch for anything else, but I like the Moldex design better, it was about the same weight as my lighten stock wedge A-series cranks, but had huge counter weights and hardly any extra material around the journals and that's exactly what you want in a billet crankshaft.

LeeMcKee
11-02-2006, 11:54 PM
What kind of cranks do you carry at your shop Hap? (For an A series BMC engine that is.)

Hap Waldrop
11-04-2006, 08:13 AM
Well, I don't really "carry" anything, I normally try to keep a stock 1275 crank around for mods in case the next customer doesn't have a core. In 5 years of operation, I never got far enough ahead to do unsold items, I guess that is a good thing though /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif I wedge lighten cranks and polish and lighten rods as well, this has became a bit more in demand wtih SCCA's Limted prep rules requireing stock rods and crank to be used. Here's a photo of one of my 1275 cranks
that has been wedge lightened on the balancer

www.acmespeedshop.com/_images/1275crankbal.jpg (https://www.acmespeedshop.com/_images/1275crankbal.jpg)

The wedging of the A series cranks and the MGB especailly is a good deal because it lower the weight by a couple of pounds and removes material form the crank pin creating more counter throw weight vs pin/journal weight.

Heres a photo of a before and after on my 1275 rods

www.acmespeedshop.com/_images/1275rods.bmp (https://www.acmespeedshop.com/_images/1275rods.bmp)

On the A-series and MGB rods, these thing were way over built and are seriously heavy, did you all know a 1275 stock rods weights about the same as a SBC rod, ligtening the rods removes aprox. 100 grams per rod


I also do the same type of work for MGBs, Spitfires, and all makes for that matter. All this makes for better accelaration rate and puts less stress on the bottom end.

LeeMcKee
11-04-2006, 10:05 PM
How much would a crank and rods lighten and balance cost? Would it be smarter to work on stock rods and crank or should one go with aftermarket stuff?

Bugeye58
11-05-2006, 01:29 AM
Lee, I'm sure Hap will agree with the old adage of, "Son, it costs money to go fast. How fast do you want to go?"
You're looking at about three grand for a billet crank and rods.
A wedge job on the stock crank along with appropriate rod work is much cheaper.
Jeff

Hap Waldrop
11-05-2006, 09:45 AM
[ QUOTE ]
How much would a crank and rods lighten and balance cost? Would it be smarter to work on stock rods and crank or should one go with aftermarket stuff?

[/ QUOTE ]

What engine are we talking about?

LeeMcKee
11-05-2006, 07:55 PM
I've found a 1275 BMC "A" series motor to replace my 1500 triumph so I can go vintage racing. (78MG MIDGET) I would like to balance a crank and rod set for this engine at some rate. If it would be cheaper to grind the stock set as opossed to buy and after market item that needs no regrinding then I would like to do that. That is for MY information. Seperatly I have a customer that I looking to get a billit crank in his race prep sprite. He has given $ to a vendor but has not recieved to crank. He wanted to know if I could fine a place for him to source them "off the shelf" so to speak.

Hap Waldrop
11-06-2006, 08:30 AM
Lee, yes race prepping your stock crank and rods is alot ceaper than Carrillos and a Moldex crank. The vendor is probably waiting on Moldex, you can go to them directly if you desire, items like a billett crank is rarely off the shelf, besides a few racers not many people lining up for $2000 cranks for our motors, so this is a specailty item for sure.

Lee you can go to webpage listed below and all the pricing for my rods and cranks are listed on the "web special" page. I also do custom race pistons, racing camshafts, head work, you name it. It would be best to look around on the website and then give me a call, I've been playing with these little cars on the race track for about 25 years now, started when I was in my early 20s.