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View Full Version : TR6 TR6 trailing arm bracket bolts - Help!



MarkT
10-07-2006, 11:12 AM
I've finally gotten round to doing my trailing arm bushings and replacing the brackets with the Goodparts adjustable ones. The passenger side went off without too many hitches. Now on to the drivers side, and, uh oh, the one bolt I didn't want to be seized is....

The lower bolt on the inner bracket is completely seized. No movement, even after liberal application of WD40 and time - just chewing up the head and nut. I'm doing this on jack stands in the back yard, so there is minimal vertical room (maybe 8" max) to get anything in there. The trailing arms are still connected, else I could easily get in there and just dremel the bolt head off (ask me how I know!). Any suggestions to release this? I've thought about trying a small hacksaw to cut off the sides of the bracket, but I'm not sure there's enough space.

Thanks,
Mark
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1976 TR6 "rolling" resto...

crj7driver
10-07-2006, 12:20 PM
I have found that a big wrench and a propane torch get along quite well with my TR6. Just heat up the nut really well and I imagine the bolt will turn right out. Everytime I try and just use penetrating oil and a large wrench I am left with a sheared off bolt/screw/nut. Theni get to discover if I have the correct bit and tap. Good luck.

jerrybny
10-07-2006, 02:32 PM
Heat it with a propane torch and then let it cool for awhile. Iy might take doing this a couple of times but it should loosen. If not you could cut the head off with a dremel tool and than bang it thru. Good Luck

martx-5
10-07-2006, 04:06 PM
After over 40 years of swinging wrenches on rust buckets, WD-40 has never helped with really rusted nuts and bolts. Someone told me try some PB Blaster...available at Pep Boys etc. Well, I've got to say that I was impressed the first time I used it. I still get impressed when I use it. Some folks say that a product called Kroil is even better, but I haven't run across it yet. I suppose I could get it from the internet somewhere.

swift6
10-07-2006, 06:26 PM
[ QUOTE ]
After over 40 years of swinging wrenches on rust buckets, WD-40 has never helped with really rusted nuts and bolts.

[/ QUOTE ]

There is a reason for that... WD-40 is not a penetrating oil and is barely an adequate general lubricant. The WD stands for "Water Dispersant".

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif

tr6web
10-08-2006, 08:00 AM
Kroil works. It's a penetrating oil. Soak it in that for a short while or spray it on a few times.

DougF
10-08-2006, 08:03 AM
Heat is your friend. If you have mapp gas or even better, acetylene, use them over propane.
Ditto on the WD40. The two best over-the-counter penetrants that I am aware of are PB Blaster and Kroil. Either one will work better than WD, though Kroil is much harder to find.

tr6web
10-08-2006, 08:34 AM
It's easy to buy it online and it's fast shipping. www.kanolabs.com/ (https://www.kanolabs.com/)

MarkT
10-08-2006, 12:51 PM
Thanks one and all!

The PB Blaster is indeed marvellous stuff. An application last night, and the bolt I was having issues with came undone this morning without any undue problem. Of the other two, only one had to have the head cut off and be punched out.

So, just pressed the bushings out, and now to refit new ones and bolt everything to the new brackets. You never know, I might actually have the camber adjusted and eliminated the rear-end sag by dinner! Here's hoping...

Mark

bobh
10-10-2006, 08:40 AM
Brake fluid is also a very good penetrating oil. Be careful not to get any on painted surfaces.