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jerrybny
10-04-2006, 03:28 PM
I'm back. I have the passenger door totaly apart as TR6 Bill suggested. I am trying to get the window to come up under the top frame when closed so that the window will press against the seals. However, I don't see any adjustment points. The window channel is held in place by 3 bolts. The nuts are welded onto the bracket and the holes in the door are round. The brackets are new and were purchased from TRF so they aren't worn out. Someone had said that the window channels were adjustable. Well if they are this OLD **** can't figure out how. Now I did notice that the back part of the window come all the way up iso I figure the winder mechanism is worn. I have them on order. Could they be causing the window to be out of alignment? I need to bring the top of the window in about 3/8's of an inch and then they will press against the seals. Thanks in advance.

10-04-2006, 05:38 PM
Jerry,
I ended up changing both winder mechanisms as well as all four channels. Finally got the windows right. Sorry you seem to be fighting this so hard. Hang in there, it will work.


Bill

Norton47
10-04-2006, 05:57 PM
I also have my door open and have a worn out winder. I replaced both channels with ones off Ebay and reused the brackets off the old ones. Although the holes are round they still allow some adjustment for inboard and outboard at top and bottom.
However, how do you know the top is wide enough apart to meet the windows. Mine seems to have had some slop in it which I have shimmed and tightened but, It looks like a little muscle to spread the top is what's needed. Is that possible?

jerrybny
10-04-2006, 06:24 PM
I compared my top frame to what is shown in the catalogs and everything seems to be as it should. I don't really want to widen the frame unless I abosultey have too.

MDCanaday
10-04-2006, 07:13 PM
You need to try adjusting the seals at the top of the window. Just above the inside lip are little nuts, the rubber seal my have to come out, but you can move the channel that holds it quite a bit.Might as well get fresh seals too, and make a job of It.
MD(mad dog)

Brosky
10-04-2006, 07:56 PM
I had all new guides and channels and regulators installed in the spring. I never put the top up until the run to the Cape this past weekend. My drivers door is perfect, but the passenger side needs about 1/4 of an inch also. I had the new inner and outer door belt seals replaced as well, but didn't know that they were adjustable. Live and learn! I hope that fixes my issue.

jerrybny
10-04-2006, 08:06 PM
And the window glass on the drivers side comes up under the frame right. Maybe a 1/4 inch in from the edge of the frame?

Brosky
10-04-2006, 09:43 PM
Correct, Jerry. But the passenger door, will not allow the glass to come any higher. There is also a slight issue with the tilt, at the top of the W/S frame, but the glass is perfectly level. It just may be blocked as suggested.

The windshield frame and all parts were out and new glass was installed at this time as well. My buddy Al was at the shop puzzled about this adjustment issue and will be curious to know about this latest idea to try.

https://www.74tr6.com/glassreplacement.htm

10-05-2006, 06:23 AM
I think in trying to get the car to come together where everything is perfect is an exercise in futility. That said, it can be fine tuned to the point that it is almost perfect. These cars were never built by robots and were essentially hand assembled, not quite as much as it's earlier cousins, the TR2-250, but almost hand made. And no two were ever exactly the same. Door gaps, searching for the perfect 10 (in this case the perfect 1/4") were illusive. Tops (hoods) were always a nuisance. I remember walking into a Triumph dealership back in the early '70s and looking at three new TR6s and seeing hugh differences in door gaps and top fits.

To get the perfect fit of door glass, several things have to be understood. First, the actual windshield frame angle can be modified by the amount of torque applied to the both the main end bolts as well as the inside bolts, all affecting the tilt. The convertible top frame has adjustments in it on the B posts, with the 3-bolt brackets. I have had to restretch my canvas by ungluing and regluing after initial sagging. (man, this is a pain) The stretch of the material as well as the webbing will affect the arching of the frame.
Many underestimate the importance of the webbing and keeping it taut. The door itself with all it's miriad adjusts is the ultimate kicker. The whole darn thing is organic and as such will either drive you crazy or drive you. Don't obsess, you will get it.


Bill

Brosky
10-05-2006, 07:21 AM
Well, if I'm not adjusting these windows, there's always a CD carb or two to keep me busy. Thanks for the other tips. I never knew about the B pillar adjustment on the top either. Perhaps I should actually read some of the repair manuals that I've accumulated over the years.

Mickey Richaud
10-05-2006, 07:26 AM
" Organic " - I like it, Bill!

In keeping with TR6Bill's post, don't tighten ANY bolts until you get everything lined up the way you want it. Much easier to "persuade" things in place.

Mickey

Brosky
10-05-2006, 05:43 PM
Mickey, that's one thing that I did learn a long time ago. The hard way, when I was a flat rate tech. Spent a lot of time working late to make up for mistakes, but I learned enough never to repeat them!