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dkritter
09-06-2006, 04:05 PM
Hi,

Have a 1972 TR6 and the problem I am having is that the key binds in the lock when turning it to start. I usually get it to go but I know one of these times it's going to not turn at an inconvenient time and I will be stuck. Since the season is coming to a close in WI, I was thinking of bypassing the lock assembly and putting a temporary starter switch until I have time to R&R the lock mechanism. I am looking for an idea how to rig that switch and any help would be appreciated. There is not a steering column lock on this car so there is no problem starting without the key.
Thanks,


Dave

martx-5
09-06-2006, 05:05 PM
If the ignition side of the switch still works OK, then just put in a momentary switch for the starter. Working from the wires at the ignition switch, tap into the NW (brown/white) wire, run it to one end of the switch then tap into the the WR (white/red) wire and run that to the other end of the switch. Keep the wires attached to the ignition switch, just tap into them. You can use one of those Scotch-Lock type things that squeeze onto the wire. They can be removed later on if you wish. Try and find a switch that can handle 20 amps.

Now you can just turn on the ignition with the key and use the starter button to crank.

DougF
09-06-2006, 05:54 PM
You will have to find a way to disconnect the locking system. Unless you totally disable the ignition and keep the key turned in the on position. Otherwise, you will have to disassemble the column and make the necessary adjustments.

vettedog72
09-06-2006, 06:19 PM
You may have tried the obvious; a little lock lube spray may go a long way for you.

swift6
09-06-2006, 06:22 PM
[ QUOTE ]
Hi,

Have a 1972 TR6 and the problem I am having is that the key binds in the lock when turning it to start.

There is not a steering column lock on this car so there is no problem starting without the key.
Thanks,


Dave

[/ QUOTE ]

If the steering column lock has been removed then the easiest thing to do would to just install a new ignition switch. Probably less time than rigging a temporary switch. It's the column lock that is the bear to remove.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif

dkritter
09-10-2006, 04:15 PM
Hi, thanks for the input.

The steering column lock system seems to be removed or at least most of it. I am not sure how it goes together. I can say this, is that no matter what position the key is in the steering wheel can always be turned. Thus, wiggling the wheel is not helpful, on the other hand, I have lubed the lock itself and that helps slightly but there seems to be something else causing the binding. So, the questions for today are, is the lock cylinder seperate from the column lock and can that alone be replaced? If so how?. If not, then is it a question that there may be some mechanism left over from the column lock that while it's disabled, when turning the key I am still turning some other mechanism? If so, any idea what or how to lube that.

Thanks in advance for your response.

DK

dkritter
09-15-2006, 08:06 PM
Ok then, I've removed the column lock and the ignition switch and recieved a new one. According to the catalog, I order the assembly pn 667-850(later than C55000). So what I have is an ignition assembly that has the lock assembly and then there is the plug on the back end that plugs into it.

So what I have is lock assembly has a with a small double "D" type male shaft that interlocks in the ignition switch. That shaft interlocks with the ingition switch assembly that has a female "D" type mate. On the back of the ignition switch there are six leads with slot type tabs. The new assembly has the ignition switch attached to the lock assembly and there are only four leads coming off of that.

My question is, what does a pre 1973 ignition/lock assembly look like?

DK