View Full Version : Evans Coolant

Bruce Bowker
07-30-2006, 07:17 AM
Does anyone have any experience with Evans coolant?
These are the features and it sure sounds like almost perfect stuff.


07-30-2006, 08:27 AM
Looks Promising....should be, at 32.50 a gallon.



Bruce Bowker
07-30-2006, 08:46 AM
It is more expensive but a claim of 500,000 miles between changes certainly pays for itself. I also like the idea of a low pressure or no pressure system plus the non corrosive part.

eBay has it for $27.48 per gallon in a case of 4 but of course there is the "shipping, handling, we pad the profit" charges.


07-30-2006, 11:05 AM
for 32.50 a gallon does it include a nubile red-head in a french maid outfit and thigh-high fishnets to install it for you ?????


Bruce Bowker
07-30-2006, 11:47 AM

07-30-2006, 01:20 PM
Even if it's suppose to last 500,000 I bet my cars would decide to leak it all out as soon as I change over-just the kinda luck I am having today.

tony barnhill
07-30-2006, 02:15 PM
I worry about some o those super products that can only be bought from the TV! Is it available at NAPA, For example?

07-30-2006, 02:59 PM
according to their website there is a NAPA store in Colorado that sells it

Bruce Bowker
07-30-2006, 03:07 PM
The garage that works on all of my cars has been using it for about a yeasr now so I am reasonably confident about it. I have not used it but will start when I service the cars next.

It has been around about 10 years as I undertand. It is not a TV only sale product and I agree I don't trust many of those things.

01-16-2007, 12:14 PM
I started using Evans in my roadrace motorcycles years ago and now it's in all my vehicles. You don't really notice a drop in coolant temps, but rather you know that there's a huge margin of safety. If something happends that causes the temp to go up, you're protected from boiling over, warping heads, ruining the head gasket, etc. I tried an experiment one year of trying to get better aerodynamics by routing air around the bike rather than through it. It was the last race of the season before the finals at Daytona and I blocked up some of the air going into the radiator. The temp gauge went to 300F before I noticed; I was thinking about riding, not watching my gauges as I should have. We removed the air obstruction, changed the oil and ran the weekends races without problem. Didn't touch the engine before going to Daytona and it ran fine there too. No damage upon teardown either.

You need 5% or less water content with Evans so installation can take some effort. It is compatable with pure anti-freeze as long as it's not the long life type and doesn't contain water so you can top up in an emergency. Adding water will make it act like a conventional water based coolant, no worse. If your system is going to spring a leak, changing the coolant won't help that. It does stop doing more damage though. After I started using it in racing, I discovered it was a lot more common than I'd thought.

Bruce Bowker
01-16-2007, 06:57 PM
I will be changing all fluids in all cars this Spring and may change all to this type of coolant. I like the idea of low pressure on the hoses and not having to worry much about corrosion from the cars sitting too long.


01-16-2007, 09:04 PM
Is this the blue stuff I've seen recently??

01-16-2007, 10:29 PM
One of Evans' coolants (NPG) is blue or purple, but that's not the one you want. The purple one is for racing under an ethylene glycol ban, but it's too thick to be used in most systems without some modification like removing thermostats and blocking bypass hoses. The one that's right for most uses is NPG+. It doesn't require any mods and works year round. Their "race" coolant NPG-R is thinner and flows better, but doesn't do well at 10F or below.
Evans naturally runs at a lower pressure, but you can also modify your rad cap to go to a zero pressure system. Drilling the rivet on the underside of the cap defeats the small spring and does the trick. Most people don't know that there are 2 springs in their cap. The big one regulates system pressure. The little one allows cooling liquid back into the radiator. I've gone to zero pressure in a few of my vehicles no problem. You may notice more of a coolant smell, though.

01-16-2007, 11:15 PM
Off topic - I saw someone checking his anti-freeze in a parkinlot...and the stuff was blue. Anyone know what that was? It was a Chevy Aveo, but I thought those ran on Dexcool?

01-17-2007, 10:37 AM
Blue could be Engine Ice. It's a water based propylene glycol coolant with heavy promotion. It's better than average water based coolants, but not much. Virtually anything is better than Dex-Cool. I haven't learned why to my satisfaction, but Dex Cool occaisionally fails dramatically. If you look up DexCool liability, you'll find horror stories of it turning brown and gooey, clogging passages and ruining engines. There's also a company, Woco Engineering, that sells coolant dyes in various colors and clear hoses. Evans will turn brown with use, but it doesn't affect the performance or lifespan.

01-18-2007, 03:27 PM
One thing looks a bit problematic. The "specific heat" of the Evans is MUCH lower than that of water. Specific heat is the amount of energy is take to change the temperature of a mass of material. or in other words, it takes 1 BTU of heat to raise 1 lb of water 1 degree. Of course it take out the same amount of energy to remove the heat from the water.
Now the Evans has a specific heat of 0.64 according to their web site. That is as apposed to 1 for a water based coolant.

Now since the overall heat transfer will be the same the temp gauge should be about the same, BUT, it say looking at the triumph engine design, the coolant enters the head at cyl1. by the time it reaches cyl4, the Evans will have absorbed the same amount of heat(# of calories), but will be MUCH hotter. As it is, particularly for these engines, the back cyl usually runs hotter anyway, I don't think I would want to heat the rear cyl more than it already is!

Modern engines have their coolant systems designed to even out the temperatures much better than on our old cars, and I don't think this would be as much of a problem on a new car.

01-22-2007, 10:49 AM
As long as the cylinder temp on your hottest cylinder isn't too hot for the oil, it'll be allright. The problem for water is when it goes through a phase change. People like to say how much heat is removed when water boils. This is true, but as soon as there's enough vapor present to displace liquid coolant, the metal temp spikes. If the rear cylinder overheats the coolant (a water based one) you'll get engine damage from the huge rise in metal temp. Evans may get hotter than you're used to seeing, but it's not boiling away. A rise in coolant temp of 20 or even 50 degrees isn't much to the metal. When coolant vaporizes, the metal temp can spike by hundreds of degrees. Now if you're running Evans and really want to see a drop in coolant temps, it's possible if not necessary. Removing the thermostat and blocking bypass hoses is the cheap start. A new aluminum radiator and high flow pump (or a different size pulley) is a pricey way to drop temps. Depends what you use the car for. Evans also has a lower viscocity higher heat transfer coolant although it doesn't flow well in winter conditions.

01-22-2007, 11:57 AM
I have to ask the question - What is the difference between Evans coolant and Sierra antifreeze / coolant (or any of the other commercially available propylene glycol coolants)? Straight Sierra is 94-96% propylene glycol, 3% water and 1-3% proprietary additives.

01-24-2007, 10:41 AM
Sierra is essentially the same as Evans' NPG. It contains the additives which are unnecessary if it isn't mixed with water. These additives will fall out of solution with time creating the sludge you find in the bottom of the system. Evans' NPG is really obsolete unless you're competing under an ethylene glycol ban. I use NPG in my roadrace motorcycles because of such a ban. It's pretty thick, so system modifications are needed. My bikes don't have bypass hoses and don't run in cold weather, so all I do is remove the thermostat. A car's system is more complicated so the mods are more extensive and possibly tricky. Fluids want to follow the path of least resistance, possibly through a bypass circuit, heater core or other internal circuits. The Yamaha R6 motorcycle tends to divert NPG through the oil cooler, bypassing the engine. If the T-stat isn't removed, the temp gauge will read higher. It doesn't hurt anything but can make a rider or tuner nervous. I use Sierra as a prep fluid because it's cheaper.