View Full Version : Removal of hood letters

07-21-2006, 11:07 AM
"Easy" method of removing letters on TR4A hood prior to painting ?

Andrew Mace
07-21-2006, 11:33 AM
Depends on how they're fastened. Earlier versions might have a sort of "speed clip"; they can be gripped with fine-jawed pliers from the underside and worked off. For the later "friction bush" fittings that I suspect your car has, I usually use a very small punch and gentle taps of a hammer. Alternatively and at the risk of paint and/or metal damage, they could be carefully levered off.

Geo Hahn
07-21-2006, 11:18 PM
I have heard of (not tried as I had the early type) that one may be able to slip a length of plastic strapping under them and pull them up. The ones on the TR4A bonnet may be hard to get at from behind.

Andrew Mace
07-22-2006, 09:16 AM
Clever idea, Geo! I can see no reason why that shouldn't work, so long as the plastic strip is strong enough. Again, I suspect it would only work on letters and badges affixed with the "friction bush" inserts in the holes, and not the earlier "speed nut" clips.

07-22-2006, 11:01 AM
I removed my letter "seats" last year. They were pushed into the stock friction fittings, but some form of adhesive (like as acrylic calk) had been used in prior years and removal was not easy.

I carefully pushed up from the bottom, using the flat of a big screw driver, working in the cramped space, levering up with my hands and finger tips. Be careful with your paint!!

Some painters paint over the push-in seats and when you push or pull the letters out you will crack the paint. On a good number of the seats I replaced, I avoided cosmetic problems by cutting the paint line at the fitting edges with an exacto tool.

I'd definitely try using George's nylon strapping. I keep that with my tools in case I ever remove letters again.

07-22-2006, 11:20 AM
Correction: Come to think of it, I actually pushed the letters out first, from underneath, carefully using two different sizes of steel picks (from any tool shop, or even Home Depot) with the ends curled or bent like a small "L". I had to push the letters back up through the seats, and that was the difficult part working in that cramped space with hands and fingertips. The best pick had a nice rubber handle and good strength to the steel--not a little flimsy one from a pick set.

The flat of a screwdriver was only to pop the seats out after I took care of the paint line.

As stated, that nylon trick might be far better. I just haven't tried it yet.