View Full Version : TR4/4A 1963 tr4 oil filter conversion?

07-20-2006, 08:38 PM
Hello, Could someone please help me /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif I have been trying to restore my tr4 and learning as I go. I have gotten to the point of changing the oil, and guess what? It is not like the book says it is supposed to be. It looks like someone has put an american conversion kit on it. It looks like a spin on oil filter. Any clue as to how I would find out which one to put on it. Before you ask no the old one is not on it still. Some on took it off and forgot to finish the job they started. I am truly hoping to have this on the road this year, but so many snags have come along I am beginning to wonder /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nopity.gif
any help would be appreciated.

07-21-2006, 06:37 AM
I believe Moss is the Primary source for the spin-on adapters. they offer K&N, Wix and Fram filters to go with them so you should be able to find one locally.
GIve the Moss tec line a call and ask for the Fram or Wix number for the filter. I can't remember it offhand. But armed with that you can find one.
Mosses tec line is 805-681-3411
I noticed a small pic of the K&N filter in the catalog. The number on it is HP2009
Maybe a local store could cross-refrence that to your reasonably priced brand of choice.

07-21-2006, 08:02 AM
Not to worry. Most of the conversions use the same filter. My notes list these filters to fit the most common conversion:
Fram PH2825
Wix 51516** or 51034
NAPA Gold 1516** (same as Wix) or 1034
K&N HP2009 or 1002

You can use either filter brand you want but Wix** is recommended as it is the best quality.

Simon TR4a
07-21-2006, 08:16 AM
Mine uses a 3600 series filter available at any auto parts counter for a few dollars. This is a decent size filter, not like the tiny things you see on many modern cars, I think it fits the 3 litre Ford Taurus V6 from the late 1980's or so.

My conversion kit was from Moss 10 years ago , so yours may possibly be different.

07-21-2006, 08:32 AM
This TR4 was sitting in a barn for approximately 8 years, poor baby not a way to leave her, before I got her. So it would be a great possibility that the 3600 might match. I also did some google searching last night, that number kept coming up. I will go purchase one today, and update you. Thanks for all your help. I so desperatley want to be able to enjoy the TR4 this year. I am impatient. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/angel.gif

07-21-2006, 08:51 AM
While we are on this topic:
Do these spin on conversions ALWAYS allow for an oil cooler add on????
Do all spin on adapters include hose fitting outlets for oil coolers or are these tapped in elsewhere?
What thermostats is recommended for oil temp. control and where is the thermostat to be located?

07-21-2006, 10:07 AM
No, the simple filter upgrade does not have outlets for the oil cooler. Those are available at a higher cost. Mocal sells a unit that mounts at the filter (as they all do) but has an itegral 180 d. thermostat within. Otherwise you put the thermostat somewhere in the hose. The integral unit saves having multiple hose cuts/connections that could fail.

07-21-2006, 11:45 AM
I went and bought the fram 3600, and it worked. Thanks a lot!!! From reading above, am I to assume I might have problems with the way someone changed over the filter???

07-21-2006, 01:10 PM
Hi Tiny86,

Yes, I have used the Fram 3600 with the spin-on adapter on my TR4, too. Right now I've got a KN HP-2005 on there. It's the same size as the Fram. With these two numbers, you can probably cross-reference just about any other brand of filter, if you wish.

I've got an oil cooler adapter, too. (Mocal SPT1 which can be seen at www.racerpartswholesale.com (https://www.racerpartswholesale.com)) As mentioned, it's a separate item that just screws on and "sandwiches" in between the spin-on adapter and the spin-on filter, adding another 1-1/8" or so to the length of the entire assembly. This extra length isn't usually any problem on TR2/3/4, even with the longer filters we are using.

There are two possible concerns about a spin-on filter adapter. One has to do with how it was made, the other has to do with how it is fitted.

All those spin-on adapters use a special, central nut and bolt arrangement to hold them on. Most often these are made of brass. Occasionally these have pretty small holes that can restrict oil flow into the filter. That's one thing to watch out for.

When it comes to fitting it up, the original filter "can" uses a seal where it fits into the filter head on the block. There's a deep groove this rubber seal fits into. The spin-on adpaters also use this seal and have a flange machined into them to fit into the groove and make contact with the rubber seal. The most common problem is a leak that's caused by an old, damaged rubber seal or when someone accidentally stacks two of those rubber seals in the deep groove in the filter head (it's easy to forget to remove the hidden, old one), or pinches the rubber seal in the process of tightening. If there is any leakage around the top edge of the spin-on adapter, look for a replacement for this seal (it's included with original style cartridge filters, might be available separately from some vendors... it's a sort of square sectioned o-ring) and be sure to remove the old one before installing the new seal.

Finally, since the adapter is made of brass, don't overtighten it or it can be snapped off. Thanks to the rubber seal, it doesn't have to be terribly tight.

If you want to do something here to keep the whole assembly from unscrewing when you go to change the spin-on filter, I recommend using some Locktite Thread Sealant on carefully cleaned threads (remove all traces of oil), rather than overtightening the nut or the brass adapter.

I've still got the original oil filter "can" from my car stashed away, with a lot of the original paint on it. I mention this because some folks like to paint their spin-on filters to match the somewhat unique "light teal green" of the original filter can, for a somewhat original appearance. Search the archives for several postings here, with photos of the special color used, for comparison, if you are interested.

BTW, the original cannister filter really wasn't a bad setup, worked well. The spin-on is just a bit easier to service and is only really necessary if also using a typical oil cooler take-off and/or some sort of remote filter arrangement. (Note: There are some oil cooler take-offs that don't require a spin-on adapter, such as the one made by Greg Solow at The Engine Room in Santa Cruz, Calif. His design fits under the filter head, itself.)