View Full Version : TR2/3/3A tr3 trunk pan

07-05-2006, 04:12 PM
Does anybody know of a vender that sells replacement trunk pans for a 61 tr3 and perhaps a web site that shows some clever tips on how to install one? The 61 I am restoring evidently had a battery or something in the truck for too long. The trunk is a mess. I have cut out most of the trunk pan, but the problem is that the damage might over lap into the back seat area. I am not sure how long the replacement piece is going to be and it would be handy if I could get about 3 inches longer than the trunk area. Any tips will be greatly appreciated. Oh and thanks for the fan Mickey I total spaced about saying thanks.
Regards sp53

Mickey Richaud
07-05-2006, 04:20 PM
Glad you got it OK, and I hope it's working out for you.

As for the trunk pan, Moss has them:


And I think The Roadster Factory does as well.


07-05-2006, 06:14 PM
I did this very job on my TR3. I have a post 60,000 car. The trunk floor is different between the pre and post 60K cars.

It took me several weeks working nights to cut the old one out and weld a new one in. The main difficulty involves the spare tire compartment that is welded to the trunk floor. On the old floor, I cut around the flange of the spare tire section...both inside and outside of the flange. Then I was able to remove the rest of the metal on the flange itself, mostly by grinding. The new trunk floor has a lip at the front that get's welded to the section where the fuel tank sits, but that's as far as it goes. At the back of the floor where it meets the back, there is alot of dum dum smeared in there. It may seem that the new trunk floor doesn't go back far enough, but it all gets filled in with this putty. The old stuff I pulled out was still pliable after over 40 years. When you go to put the new panel into the trunk, you'll contort it about 50 different ways trying to get it in. I don't remember the sequence, but it does fit.


Edit: One other thing I thought about. The spare tire compartment will kind of be hanging loose after the floor is removed. While it was exposed, I did whatever finish work I could, as you'll never have access like that again. When I went to weld in the floor, I had all the plug weld holes already drilled in the new panel, and used a few sheet metal screws around the perimeter of the spare tire compartment to hold things together while welding. You can then remove the screws and weld the holes shut. It's a big job, but if you take your time, it will go well. I also had a bunch of rust to cut out of one of the inner fender wells, and did that as part of the floor repair. You can do the same with the section just forward of the floor on your car. You should be able to fabricate what you need for that from some sheet metal, as it's not a complicated section.

If you want, I can send you some pictures of the completed repair, pointing out some of the things I did.

07-05-2006, 11:32 PM
This is a job for a pro!! Get real, experienced help if at all possible. Do not attempt to weld the sparepan to the floor unless you are REALLY good with a mig.Use instead a metal bonding adheasive(3m is my pick)con the jobber into loaning you a gun for it(they usually will).this will save warpage and tons of time.Also there is zero chance of rust latter. You will also want help for the work around the spare appature it is often welded solid from turn lamp to turn lamp.
Good luck!!
MD(mad dog)

07-06-2006, 05:02 PM
Thank you all for your comments. Did you guys buy yours from Moss? How close was it to being a decent fit. I worked in a sheet metal shop during my twenties, so I am familiar with sheet metal and the tools. I mostly wanted the replacement pan for the pressed pattern in the metal. My fear is that the after market pan will not be long enough to cover the area I need to fix under the seat and plus cover the trunk. I guess, I could call Moss and ask them to measure the over all length. I was kinda hopping that there was an independent supplier for the pans. I mean if a guy established a market for British car pans the sheet metal is not very much. Anyways I will keep at it.

07-06-2006, 06:00 PM
The trunk pan goes as far as the upward slope at the front of the trunk, just before where the gas tank sits. From the middle of the back of the trunk to that upward slope is about 27". It is exactly as the original is. Any further forward, and it's a different piece. I got mine from Moss, and it fit very well. And which seat are you talking about??? The jump seat in the rear??

07-07-2006, 07:18 PM
Yes I kinda thought it would be very similar to the original, but I was not sure what they considered the stopping point of the trunk pan. I was not sure because when I look at the piece on-line it looks like it goes under the jump seat. They only show the photo for the early tr3 pre 6000. Ideally what I want is one the goes under the jump seat and gas tank. When I get home I will see how 27 inches ends up.


07-07-2006, 08:09 PM
If you look at the Moss Site, (https://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29155) picture 27 is the floor pan. It only extends a little past the back of the trunk. Picture 22 is the section the you are also looking for. The picture is pre 60000, but the description of the post 60000 cars is "rear floor panel with shelf" or jumpseat. I have both body shells here, and just checked them out. The trunk pan ends at picture 22. The shape of the early one is considerably different then the post 60000 cars, so that picture might be throwing you off.

Also, the major difference in the trunk pans between the early and late is that the area within the spare tire compartment is raised up about 3/8" to 1/2" so they could get a 165 tire in there. It also looks like it might be slightly shorter then the early one, but I can't get close enough to measure. There are a few other differences, but they are minor. One other thing, the floor pan as supplied by Moss does not have the angle brackets for the fiberboard mounting that covers the gas tank. Nor does it have the "T" shaped pieces that are used to hold down the wiring harness. Both the angle brackets and "T" gizmos are easy enough to make out of some sheet metal and weld on. Just watch those angle brackets for the fiberboard piece, the two outer ones face in a different direction then the one in the middle. You should see that on your old pan.


07-08-2006, 05:50 PM
Any one out there have a pix or two of a fully restored trunk or know where I can find one? The Moss catalogue shows leather straps etc.