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brucebotti
05-13-2006, 06:52 PM
I am having trouble with the signal lights on my TVR. They work, but very slowly if the revs are not up. It has a two bladed (terminal) flasher. Does the TR6 use a two bladed signal flasher? Has anyone tried an electronic flasher? Most of the ones I've seen are three bladed.

I can live with the signals the way they are, but it would be preferable to have them work better. I've tried a new "regular" flasher with no improvement.

Thanks,
Bruce

RomanH
05-13-2006, 08:10 PM
Bruce,
At night are the headlights dim until you rev the engine? If so, have you checked your alternator output? It sounds like it could be that the alternator is not putting out enough voltage at the lower RPM and you are running only on the battery. That could be the cause of your slow blinkers.

brucebotti
05-13-2006, 09:00 PM
The headlights don't seem to change brightness at night when the rpm's change. It just may be the old Lucas Gremlins!
Bruce

RomanH
05-13-2006, 10:53 PM
Ok.
It seems that many of our LBC's electrical problems are caused by poor ground connections. With the TVR being fiberglass I am not certain how the circuits are grounded but that may be something to look into.
By the way, the TR6 does use a 2 terminal flasher unit.

Hayfever
05-16-2006, 09:14 AM
Bruce, I bought 2-blade electronic flashers at Carquest for both the Hazard and Turn flashers. Haven't connected the battery yet so I can't say if they work (was doing a final check through on my harness and discovered that at some point a DPO managed to melt the fuse holder for the headlights so I don't want to connect power until I get the parts from British Wiring to fix it).

Paul Johnson
05-16-2006, 09:22 AM
If they're flashing slow, then there is not enough current going through to heat the bi-metal strip quicker (heavy duty flasher), there is a voltage drop somewhere before the flasher (cruddy wires) or there is an ineffective ground.
Have fun searching.

Adrio
05-17-2006, 06:48 AM
Paul has a very good point. I was once able to find a poor ground in my turn signal circuit because the left flasher and the right flasher went at different speeds. The slow one had a poor ground which resulted in a voltage drop and the bi-metal strip not getting hot. If both sided are flashing at the same speed you can nartow down the hunt to parts ot the circuit that are common to both right and left. If it is only one side that is slow then you have it narrowed down to those parts that are only used for that side and not the common parts or the other side's parts.

brucebotti
05-17-2006, 09:21 AM
Good points! Both sides flash at the very slow rate. I have tried improving the "grounds" with no luck yet.

Hayden, do you have a part# on that electronic flasher? I'd like to try it unless its very pricey. Someone told me that they do not work well with the old style conventional circuits. If its below $20 I'm willing to try!
Thanks to all!

brucebotti
05-17-2006, 08:25 PM
I went out an bought the electronic flasher....no better than the thermal flasher. Guess I'll have to either keep the revs up or fix the grounds... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif
Thanks!

Paul Johnson
05-17-2006, 09:44 PM
But I think there's a fly in the ointment. An electronic flasher, I'd guess by definition, would work on a timer, and a bad ground will do lots of wierd things, but doubt that it would screw up a clock. Are you using some sort of steroid bulbs by any chance?

brucebotti
05-18-2006, 11:45 AM
I'm just using the tried and true 1157's. The only issue is the slow flashing which only occurs at a low idle. I hesitate to look at anything except grounds as I have never found a wiring diagram that fits the car. As a matter of fact, the owners manual has a blank page that says "the wiring diagram was not available as the manual went to print"... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Paul Johnson
05-18-2006, 03:46 PM
A - You don't have a generator do you?
B - It's kind of complicated to calculate, as there's both a series and parallel circuit involved, but here's a way you could maybe do a fairly quick test.
Take any lampholder using an 1157, and temporarily plug it into the car's harness replacing one lamp at a time. You might get lucky and find a bad lamp. If not build a duplicate and plug the two directly into the connection under the dash where they separate out front/rear. That way you could isolate a body harness. I'm guessing that at this step you'll have found and cleaned a dirty connection in the underdash harness, because while it is most often a poor ground, there's no rule saying it must be.
Good luck - we look forward to hearing final outcome.

brucebotti
05-18-2006, 09:03 PM
Paul,
Thanks for the sound advice. I'll look at the bulb end first. The fronts are easy....the reae requires removing panels, etc. I fear to go under the dash. It is a nightmare! Like a hornet's nest, it may be better to leave it alone! I'll look more closely next winter....at least they do work.
Thanks again!

brucebotti
05-23-2006, 07:45 PM
Thanks to all! I found the problem, and I'm ashamed to say that the problem was with me!

I purchased a new electronic flasher, plugged it in, and no change. As I was warming the car up to go to Carlisle, I was fooling around with switches and turned on the 4-way flashers which never worked. Lo and behold, they worked! Then it struck me....Duh....there must be two flashers! That was the problem all along! Oh well, I feel like an idiot, but at least they work.
Bruce

Hayfever
05-23-2006, 09:18 PM
And I brought my Fluke to Carlisle for nothing. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif Well, at least I got a box of back issues of the TVR Times /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jester.gif