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Rusticus
05-11-2006, 07:42 AM
I was not interested when they were $600 but now that they're $300 that seems like a better deal. The tank on my 4A is getting pretty yucky. Anyone use one of these?

Since it's sort of "generic" (I think its offered for TR4-6) I'm sure it will present a few plumbing challenges...

$600 was crazy - I think I could have a custom stainless
tank fabbed for just a few $ more. $300 put's it in the same realm of finding an old tank at my local British salvage yard and having it professionally restored.

I'd do it myself, but Iv'e seen the uh, unfortunate results of welding and or brazing on a old tank that wasn't as clean/empty as the mechanic thought it was. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif

05-11-2006, 07:48 AM
I had a custom one fabbed in SS for a TR6 for less than $600 delivered, it was bigger (approx 15 gals), baffled and fits in the stock location...

https://www.britishcarforum.com/ubbthreads/memberfiles/192480-tank.jpg

Rusticus
05-11-2006, 08:55 AM
Really nice! Dat's what I'm talking about. I see you haven't drilled the mounting holes yet. Better get a REALLY good drill bit for that. Good stainless is tough! I was doin' somthing a few years ago and the stainless just laughed at a cheap bit from sears.

05-11-2006, 09:25 AM
Its in now. Fuel lines and pump are all plumbed in too now.
I'll get pics the next time I go up to the car. It looks rather nice in there.

Sorry - didn't mean to hijack your thread, just wanted to point out that for $500ish you can have something professionally made that will fit, in stainless, with baffles and a new sender that matches the TR6 resistance (the guy special ordered it from Nisonger). If I were to have it made again the only thing I'd change is to have the rear takeoffs come off at the bottom rather than the rear. I had to use 180 degree AN fittings to install it and they now need covers to protect them.

I also got a quote that was around $350 for same, but they took longer to quote than this guy did to make it...

tomshobby
05-11-2006, 10:36 AM
hi Rusticus,
Next time you drill a 300 series grade SS try this. 200 divided by the drill diameter for rpm's (1/2" drill is 200/.5=400rpm) and point the drill to 135 degrees instead of the normal 118 degrees. If you drill a pilot hole make is the diameter of the web of the finish drill. That way the finish drill will run smoother and not tend to chip the cutting edge. The RPM formula also applies to high speed mill cutters and lathe work with high speed cutters. Carbides have their own recommendations.

Hope you do not find this advise offensive, just a lot of expierence and a past tech school instructor.

Rusticus
05-11-2006, 11:22 AM
Thanks, man! Not offended at all. (That info should go in the knowledgebase.) Spent a lot of time in my grandpa's Tool & Die (Pointon Machine, Trenton NJ) shop so that all made sense to me! We're talking about a standard HSS bit, right?

And no problem with the discussion of the custom stainless tank - it's still "on the table" - esp. if I can find the right craftsman...

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif

tomshobby
05-11-2006, 11:48 AM
Yup, just standard HSS tooling.
I learned the machinist trade in a SS fab shop. One thing I did not include, when drilling thin sheet stock use less relief on the drill bottom so it does not have as much tendency to pull through before the hole is opened.

Rusticus
05-11-2006, 11:54 AM
Oh, and Alana - maybe you still have the dimensions of that beautiful tank around so that you could share them?

05-11-2006, 12:04 PM
Sure - send me a email address and I'll pass it on.

DNK
05-11-2006, 05:43 PM
Been waitinf for the pics of the fuel pump and tank connected
don

05-11-2006, 06:01 PM
Next time I go up there I'll grab a camera. I had the battery moved to the trunk too so I'm eager to see how that came out.