View Full Version : TR6 TR6 suspension springs

04-02-2006, 06:04 PM
Hello all,

Here is a dumb question, which springs go on the front and which go on the rear? The reason for my question is because my 69 TR6 is sitting low in the rear. I always wrote it off to the independent suspension. Anyway I decided it was time for new uprated road springs and a 7/8" anti-sway bar from British Parts NW. The springs didn't come marked, but 1 pair is shorter than the other. Could the PO have put them on incorrectly, prior to me? I took one front spring off, its taller. Is this correct, tall springs in front, and short in the rear?



04-02-2006, 07:22 PM
Hey Rob,
First off, call BPNW. They are good people and sell quality products. I purchased uprated rear springs for my 73 from The Roadster Factory (also good people) and they lifted the rear of my car, way more than I wanted, even caused the wheels to tilt slightly out at the top. I argued with them, returned the springs even after I had installed them (there was no problem in the transaction, they stand behind their products, as does BPNW). I wanted to lower the rear of my car and the springs I ended up with came from British Parts North West. The wheels stayed perfectly vertical, even under load, and I was happy. So, there are different length springs out there. Which goes where and should they all be the same length is a good question to ask BPNW. I also converted to the tube shock rear shocks from those guys. They maintain that they have them manufactured and sell to all the other vendors. Could be. Simple answer, call your vendor, they will know what they sold you.


04-02-2006, 07:42 PM
Thanks for the quick reply Bill. Its raining here today and I thought it would be a good time to tackle this project. I was hoping to wrap it up tonite, but it can wait another day as it is supposed to rain until Tues, that gives me 2 evenings to complete the job. I'll call in the morning. Now with daylight savings in effect I'm getting anxious to drive topless thru town /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif
Does your car sit level? Mine is higher in the front. BPNW says these springs will not change the height of the car. I also changed out the rear shocks for the tube conversion.



04-02-2006, 07:51 PM
Rob, my car does sit level, and about 1" lower than stock, which is what I wanted. It is just a real problem for me to go over speed bumps and/or bad curbs with my Falcon exhausts sitting so low. I just like the lower look of the car. The competition springs firmed up the ride a bit but not enough to be uncomfortable. Actually, I upgraded my seats to better-than-stock and the comfort level is good. (Seats are from Vicky Brit)


04-02-2006, 08:10 PM
The short springs go to the front. I don't believe it is possible to swap the fronts and rears, ie. not enough room in the front to fit the rears in and not enough spring to make connection in the rear.

04-03-2006, 12:04 AM
Thanks for the help Doug. As I haven't pulled off the rears yet, what you say must be right. I was hoping there was a logical way to figure this out.
Bill, the guys at BPNW said the springs were shorter but stiffer than the stock ones. Although they said the car would retain the stock height, as the springs were stiffer. I just finished installing a dual exhaust and noticed it scrapes going in and out of my driveway...I'll need to work on my aproach angle.



04-03-2006, 04:35 AM
Hi Rob,

An update to Bill's earlier response... Yes, at one time, TRF's uprated springs for IRS did raise the car roughly an inch. I dunno, maybe these coil springs were designed for rally cars where increased ground clearance is often desirable. But, it so happened Charles Runyon, owner of TRF, liked them on his own TR5, so that's what he sold.

However, take a look at their catalogs now and you'll find they currently sell a spring that *lowers* ride height by about 1" and are approx. 20% stiffer than stock. In addition, TRF now has aluminum shims to fine tune the ride height further, if you wish. Those are available in 1", 3/4" and 1/2" thickness for front and rear. (Note if these spacers are being considered: Due to suspension geometry, fitting a 1" spacer on front or rear of the IRS cars will raise ride height approx. 1.5". 3/4" spacers equals about 1" increase in ride height, and 1/2" equals approx. 3/4" increase.)


04-03-2006, 08:41 AM
What! Another "Rob T" on the board? Hey - we can attribute the offensive posts to each other.

On the question of springs - I just installed the TRF uprated springs that are supposed to give you "stock" ride hight on my TR250 and indeed found it increases the height to 1-2" above stock. Looks a bit odd in my opinion - kind of like a SUV-crossover-TR, as well as changing the rear camber and making the cornering feel a bit queer, perhaps from the higher center of gravity. I am going to swap them out with the lowered springs TRF offers and will let you know how that goes. Also its worth installing poly spring seats to replace the stock rubber ones. Cheap and last a lot longer.

Good luck,

The Other Rob

04-03-2006, 08:54 AM
When stronger springs, 20% over stock, are selected, there is 20% more stress on the TR6's "flexible" frame. Even though you improve the handling of the car when you put all the upgrade stuff, shocks, anti roll bars, springs and shocks on the TR6 you really stress the frame unless you improve the "weak" frame too.

04-03-2006, 10:27 AM
When stronger springs, 20% over stock, are selected, there is 20% more stress on the TR6's "flexible" frame. Even though you improve the handling of the car when you put all the upgrade stuff, shocks, anti roll bars, springs and shocks on the TR6 you really stress the frame unless you improve the "weak" frame too.

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True - though I would have thought stiffer shocks and polyurethene or nylon bushes would be more of an issue in this reguard than stiffer springs. For that reason I have stuck to rubber on the lower suspension bushes on my TR - seems to me the much stiffer polyurethene bushes would transmit more "shock" to the suspension mounts which are a known weak point. But I guess any time you deviate from "stock", then you risk adding stresses to the car that it may not have been built for.