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View Full Version : TR2/3/3A Help, I am stuck, or think I'm stuck



RJCOX
07-18-2019, 05:41 PM
I've done everything around me going forward with my car. I've blasted, painted, upholstered, cleaned, found replacements and even found my wheels, hubs, top frame, rag-top and carpet. All the little parts are cleaned an sorted. With the exception of some gaskets and painting, I've got it ready to move forward.

Except for mounting the body on the frame.

I've been avoiding it. Let's face it, I am still a novice at this. I've learned so much in the past few months, but every time I start to get on the tub, I find something else to do. I've run out of things to do (unless I move forward).

So here it is: One sill, A and B pillars, and floor on Driver's side are not connected. No pads or spacers installed and until Sunday, nothing was bolted down. The passenger side floor pan has not bolt holes (wasn't filled with fiberglass at least) and it looks like the rear mounts are sort of missing.

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-2rKV4mQ/0/486c3e8c/L/i-2rKV4mQ-L.jpg (https://rjcoxphotography.smugmug.com/Machines/60-TR3/Parts/n-pFCdj6/i-2rKV4mQ/A)

the PO at least purchased the brackets but didn't install them

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-s2M6dRd/0/b7a03e8e/L/i-s2M6dRd-L.jpg (https://rjcoxphotography.smugmug.com/Machines/60-TR3/Parts/n-pFCdj6/i-s2M6dRd/A)

So here I am, with the tub laying on the frame (front bolted down in six points) and can't figure out how to move forward. I've been advised to brace the frame before I pick the tub up, but I can't pick up the tub until I get the sill squared away. I can't get the mounts welded in without picking up the body (or maybe I can?). I'm in the dark here, and though I love my dad (owner of a 61) he has no clue either..

Two thoughts: We break the welds holding the rearward floor and B pillar, then pick up the rear part of the tub, or spot weld (in a few places) what I have, brace the body 9 ways to Sunday, then pick the whole thing up, and worry about alignment of the tub later.

I'm might make the shout-out and invite anyone who is interested to come on by for some cold ones and grub, with use of tools and compressor (and most likely the lift) included (once we get the tub squared). If anyone is interested in hanging out and supervising, give me a shout.

All the best
Ron

CJD
07-18-2019, 06:04 PM
Hey Ron...

These bodies are best built from the middle outward. So, I would recommend not worrying about the rear mounts until you get the parts installed in the following order:

1) Inner sills, both installed and mounted to the frame you plan to use. Use the recommended "pads" during the mounting. The firewall shims and pads should also be bolted to the 45 degree frame suspension supports at this time, in order to locate the body properly to the frame.
2) "B" pillar
3) Restore the doors
4) Use the door(s) in relation to the "B" pillar to set the position of the "A" pillar(s).
5) Floors, installed and mounted to the frame with recommended pads

Only after ALL of the above are installed and bolted to the frame should you look at the rear mounts. Your body is solid enough to move around and even remove by hand or lift. Just do not strap it to a trailer and go bouncing down the road and it will be fine. Since you are already well into the disassembly without the bracing installed, I would not bother with the bracing until, maybe, later in the build.

RJCOX
07-18-2019, 06:49 PM
John:
Unfortunately, the PO did not put any pads or shims in place that I could see. In fact, all the original pads and shims were in a baggie marked as such along with all new pads and shims.

I thought I might go on with bolting the front down without pads (sills and pillars and floor pan are already welded) working towards the back. The first time I put the inner sill in, bolted it down and rested the body (front) on it, it started to twist the sill. Bolting it down up front took some of the weight off and the sills didn't twist. I did put the firewall shims in though (for support).

Can you tell from the first pic if most of the bracket is there? Repair part (second pic) has sides and a bottom. There are sides on the tub but no bottom (where it bolts to the frame). Eventually I will need to address it, so will that whole piece get welded in, or just the bottom of it (cut off). The PO had a plan (that doesn't match what is the correct way) and I can't figure out what it was.

I put the doors on the front and the gaps and lines are pretty close and they open and close without forcing. Drivers could be a little closer at the latch (about an eighth of an inch wide currently) with the back still floating. If I put the pads in on the Driver's side, I'll have to go under the tub on the passenger side and put spacers there too. The frame strips might have to wait until the tub comes off, after the sills are welded to the pillars.

You see my confusion. I'll take two steps forward just to take three steps back. Granted, when I take the two steps forward again, they'll be much easier. I'm actually frightened of welding the sills to the A and B pillars. Which is which by the way. I always thought that the A pillar was the front, and the B was the back.

Ron

CJD
07-18-2019, 09:47 PM
If you look under the body section in the service manual, you'll see that every mount has a different thickness of pads. My fear is that, if you just bolt the body to the bare frame, then later the pads will "tweak" it in an undesired way as the different thicknesses are added. It sounds like you have the pads...so no reason not to use them as you work.

As I view the rear mount, the PO seems to have merely sliced the mount off close to the body...but left the spot welded portion on the body. Being anal, I would probably drill the welds and remove the remaining old mounting plate. Then the new mount will go on just like the original. I think that would be faster than trying to trim the new mount to match the remains of the old mount. The less "anal" way would be to just grind down the old mount and weld the new mount over the flat portion of the old, leaving part of the old still on the body. I don't think the extra .025" spacing will affect the body mounting.

You are right..."A" pillar is the front hinge pillar, and "B" is the latch pillar. Here is the order you MUST line up your driver side. The pax side sounds like it is already together, so reference it as needed to match to the driver side within 1/4" or so. Getting closer than that is rarely possible on these cars. So, here you go:

1) The sills MUST be the first parts actually bolted to the frame, again using the proper pads and bolt torques.
2) The rear of the inner sill must first be matched for and aft wise to the front of the inner wing (fender).
3) This is the "heart" of your rebuild, so run strings every which way to get the body square, and aligned left/right/and for/aft with the frame. Again, 1/4" off on any measurement is great. 3/8" is reasonable. Any more than 3/8" off and you will have to work with it to bring it down.
4) Tack the sills to the rear wing and the "B" pillar. This will lock your "heart" square and true.

Now, for the next steps you have to have the doors fully rebuilt and ready for final assembly. Also, don't plan to do the following step with doors from another car!! Every single TR3 door is different, so only use the parts you plan to have on the finished car.

5) Install the doors onto the "A" pillars using the hinges...only medium tight on the screws. Install the door latches to fix the rear position of the doors. Place the door assemblies into the latches...and when fully happy with the rear and bottom gaps, tack the "A" pillars into position.

Note: step 5 is absolutely critical, as all measurements that catch the eye on a finished car are fixed by the position of the doors to the "A" and "B" pillars. It would not be uncommon for you to spend an entire week or two just on this single operation! Do this well and your later work aligning door gaps will be much easier. Get it off a lot, and it will be very difficult to correct your gaps later.

6) Install your floors, and repair any areas of the firewall or tub that needs it.
7) At this point you have the "heart" locked down. You can move on to the front and rear body mounts.
8) Now you can add the bolt on body parts, building out from the center.

On some car styles you can alter the assembly order. With the TR2/3, if you alter the order above, you will work your way into a jam later, often having to peal your work back apart to get to the missed steps. I don't think you're stuck at all, as your car looks exactly as I would expect at your stage. You're just being naturally cautious, as it IS frightening dealing with these parts! But stick to the order, working one step at a time and you will get there just fine. If you get frustrated, just step back for a day and let your mind figure everything out. When you come back you will have a fresh view and renewed "vigor".

sp53
07-19-2019, 11:11 AM
So you have one side with an inner sill in place sitting on the frame and no inner sill on the other side? What is the side without the sill sitting on? Does one side have a new floor?

RJCOX
07-19-2019, 12:52 PM
Currently it is sitting on a bolted down sill.

Before it looked like this


59728

RJCOX
07-19-2019, 01:02 PM
PO or someone dropped the tub back on the frame after DS sill, floor and both rockers were removed. Rear mounts are both partially cut away. New floor pan and rockers and new sill were in the back seat. Prop shaft tunnel was non existent but Frank Canale made me a new one.

I wanted to pick up the whole tub to get all my spacers in place but was afraid of too much flex. I've been putting it off since I wasn't confident in my next step.

Though I cant see it, I'm pretty sure there aren't any spacers currently installed. All of the old ones are sitting in a bag, and all of the new ones are in bags on my bench.

sp53
07-19-2019, 01:52 PM
How could there be any shims in place because the shims go between the inner sill and the outrigger of the frame. What do the out riggers of the frame look like? The other shims on the back and front are not as critical as the center and can go in later. The inner sill is a straight edge for the tub to sit on and the back and front of the car will follow that line once the sill is installed. Do you have a welder? If you do not, you can screw the inner sill in place at the lip of front kick panel along the top to hold it and at the area behind the B post on the bottom to hold it while you get the door opening correct. Do you have pictures of the body area behind the B post?

sp53
07-19-2019, 03:04 PM
Sorry, I did look up at the above post and see the picture that shows the floor and sill are in on the passenger side. Seems to me you need to be the other sill in. Those shims are meant to be moved around. The manual suggest 4 shims on each outrigger, but you arrange them by how many needed; they help you adjust the tub a little. You need to lift the tub up about 2 inches and look on the out rigger and see if there are any shims or you should be able to just jack the whole car up and look.

RJCOX
07-19-2019, 04:17 PM
The problem was the PO put no shims on the other side, or bolts or anything. I have the sill and floor, but can't really put them in unless the other side is bolted down and shimmed.

So to recap: Tub minus DS sill and floor and no rear mounts, dropped on chassis and nothing bolted down and not welded at the A and B pillars on the DS.

I just want to make sure that I do the best that I can the first time and have to redo the stuff the least. The tub will be coming back off the frame eventually so that I can paint underneath.

sp53
07-19-2019, 07:34 PM
You can lift the tub up with small jack and put 4 shims in on each out rigger--- no big deal; you are going to moving shims around until you get the doors correct anyway, maybe 5 here and 3 there. IMHO you do not want it bolted tight anyway; maybe some wire so it does not slide off when you lift the driver side up. Put some wire through the holes and leave the tub a little those so you have some give and lift the driver side up and either put some lumber on the frame or on jack stands or some cribbing and try a fit the sill. That is where you are stuck.

RJCOX
07-19-2019, 08:53 PM
Actually I thought I was stuck worrying about putting too much twist in the frame from picking up the tub trying to bolt it down so I could eventually pick the whole thing up for paint.

I'm not stuck. I probably never was. My brain was stuck worrying about making a mistake.

Thanks to all here, I'm more confident in the direction though the execution remains to be seen.

The PS door/sill/pillars are currently awesome but floor pan wasnt bolted down and I was hoping to keep what I had. It'll be cool though. I can't wait for Sunday.

CJD
07-20-2019, 11:10 AM
Just for planning...2 strong men can lift the tub in your current condition. Or 4 weak men very easily! I would not try to lift it alone or with a hoist in its current condition, as it will flex too much and could permanently bend it. That's not fatal, but will leave one more thing to fix!?!

Realize that placing the tub on the frame was simply the PO's way of consolidating the project for sale. It has nothing to do with his restoration effort. I personally would pull it off before doing anything...to look all over and, of course, install the pads before you start working.

I recommend using the factory recommended number of pads while doing a frame off like yours. Later down the road, you can alter the number to fix issues that pop up. But best to start "neutral" as you work.

RJCOX
07-20-2019, 11:16 AM
And that was my big concern, flexing the tub.

By the way, are there 4 spots in the rear (aft of the floor, including the rearmost) mounting points? I saw a kit in the TRF catalog but can't find one in my stuff. I want to make sure i get all the right spacers in place before I try to align the pillars for welding.

CJD
07-20-2019, 12:43 PM
Aft of the floor there are the 2 mounts, which you have in the picture above, which use pads. Then, the bumperettes have a single, very long bolt each, which passes through the holes in the rear apron and bolt to the frame with no pads.

Oh...I know it sounds counterintuitive, but it is best to have ALL the mounts at least snug (with the exception of the front and rear bumper mounts) before installing any new body parts. Just a fraction of a degree for the rear apron to lift will be enough to throw off your rear door gaps. Same for the front if you don't have those installed.

By now I think you're getting the importance of having everything mounted as it will be in the final car before final welding anything...tacking is OK, but save the final for a fully installed tub.

RJCOX
07-20-2019, 01:36 PM
That's the plan then! But does that mean wings and bonnets too? That's what I feel like youre saying, and it makes sense, even just to tack weld.

sp53
07-20-2019, 05:47 PM
Randall and John have been some of my best teachers, but because I am carpenter, I would basically leave the tub where it is and maybe lift it 2 inches and stick a 10 --2x4 between the tub and the frame back about 6 inches from the front edge to where the floor stops let it stick out there some also and let it run out the back on that drip edge. I would also get a pack of shims to help line the tub out and perhaps with some one by one material if need to see just how close the sill is to fitting. It does not have to level only lined. If you lift it now, where are you going to put it?

But before I did that, if the A and B post are welded on driver side I would hang the door to make sure the door hole is correct or at least big enough. I am not sure how big the hole is on a post 60K car, but I would find that number.

no keep the weight down.

RJCOX
07-20-2019, 07:48 PM
Ok, no extra weight.
As to where it's going when off the frame, I was planning on using the lift to get it off the frame and while on the lift get some paint on the underside after, of course, getting the rocker panels welded on.

Actually, there's a bunch of stuff I'd like to check on when I get the tub lifted. I'd thought of getting the engine/transmission mounted so I wouldn't be tempted to scratch or scrape the body installing it afterwards. I'd like to at least visually check brake and fuel lines and the hand brake system. Mostly it's the paint and mounting the engine.

sp53
07-21-2019, 10:29 AM
The more I think about that car was cut in half, so IMHO the best thing is too jug it up from the frame. You will need some pins in the frame hole on the front and back to set the overall length of the car. The inner sills are a chief structural member for the body tub. You will have to either leave the car on the frame or make a giant template to work on, so leave it on the frame. Can you get a drift pin in the front and rear body mount on the passenger side and the DS ? You are not ready for any kind of painting you need to weld first.

If I were you, I would check the overall length of the car with 4 drift pins 2 PS and 2 DS if they fit into the holes then hang the PS door to check that the hole is suitable for a door to open and close. You do not need a fender on to check that. If all of that is good, I would get DS sill in both hands and walk over and see how close it is to going in right where everything is sitting.

I am guessing you might need some welding practice because you want to paint before you weld. You do not need to be a welder just a good fitter. In boat building there is a welder and a fitter. A good fitter is more important than a welder because learning to weld takes less time and you can practice on anything. The fitter job is harder on the back and brain; the welder has to breathe the smoke and eat the grinding, but again a good welder is very important. If you get this car fitted up nice you can find a good welder who will come over with his machine for a good price and will probably help you fit a little, very little, and weld it perfect and quick for a good price.

RJCOX
07-21-2019, 12:36 PM
Umm, where'd you get the idea that I was ready to paint? No, I'm just thinking ahead.

At first I had intended to pick the whole thing up before welding because of the lack of rear mounts. I felt that I needed those rear mounts to square up the tub. That got me into the spiral of what ifs and catch 22s.

My welding isnt pro level, but it's not too shabby if I do say do myself. I'm confident that my tack welds will be sufficient to get the tub squared enough for floor pan in so I can brace the tub and pick it up.

Paint? Yeah. On the bottom. Several coats if I can manage it. The tub is currently in primer only.

RJCOX
07-28-2019, 08:48 PM
I took last week off because it was too darned hot. I mean, like HOT X(

When it is hot you make mistakes. I am at a point right now where any mistakes I make will and can be devastating. Well, if I weld it down before checking it.

I did finally get on the lift. It really helps with the body mounting. My back still hurts from trying to shove and align the tub. I also had to help Dad get his TR back into the garage. He had started it (hard to get going) and backed it out so we could push mine around and onto the lift. It's facing the wrong way, but I don't care. His didn't want to start back up again later (he thinks the plugs are toast) so we had to push it back in, and now it sits where mine used to.
The PO, or maybe the PPO, or a combination of the two, filled in the front bolt holes on the original floor pan. There was braze in there as well as bondo. Got rid of the bondo, might have to live with the braze (its a very tiny amount next to my newly made bolt hole).
I am re-reading the above and cross-post on the other sight to make sure I have my ducks in a row. My kick panel area is nearly perfectly aligned and gets better if I clamp it down. I am planning on putting a few sheet metal screws to keep it aligned on the sill, spot weld, then grind off the heads/points after. The sill is new, but the kick panel isn't and the edge of it has gotten a little bunged up. We test fit the rockers and used a large furniture clamp to pull the rear tub forward and close up some gapping there. It's all clamped down waiting for me to get my confidence up to weld it. I do know a guy who could probably come over and do it for me if I chicken out. But I won't.

John, followed your directions to the letter, and even "dry fitted" the rocker panels. I'm rather excited to jump in and tack it in place, but won't. I want to double and triple check my measurements. I did reinstall the PS door to check my gaps. That was the last thing that I did today. I didn't even put the striker plate in though, just looking at what I have to deal with.

SP, thanks for your input. As for taking the tub back off, I thought that I would have better access to things internally with the car. The way our shop is set up, it would be quite easy to lift the tub off the frame (assuming it was all square and tight) and park it near the ceiling. If my frame, or running gear was in need of any work, I would be more inclined to do it without the body in the way. With the car on the lift today I could see how much work the PO (God rest his soul) did on it. Everything under there is clean and nice and rebuilt. Frame is shiny black and brake lines, are new. I forgot to look for the fuel line but can check again on Tuesday. Even the hubs and brakes are shiny and new (looking). We don't have an engine hoist unfortunately so the thought of installing it on the frame first has it's appeal. As far as paint is concerned, it will happen eventually, fairly soon at the rate I can go once this hurdle is crossed. Since there is little if any coating on the bottom of the tub, it's pretty important that I get to it pretty soon. Virginia has a huge amount of humidity and my new rocker panels already have some oxidization on them.

I'll get some pics up here Tuesday evening.

CJD
07-29-2019, 07:03 PM
Glad you're back to work! Just to let you know that procrastination is normal...

I left my welding table with the last house we lived in. A lapse in judgement I regret! Anyway, with the new house we need to fabricate some awnings to keep the evening Texas sun out of the living room, so I used the opportunity to purchase a new TIG welder. I have not TIG welded in 30 years, so I am basically learning it all over again. I started welding on my wood work table...and caught it on fire 4 times. I then moved to the floor, but found I am too old to be getting up and down constantly. I realized I need to take a break and build a decent welding table.

The table is, at best, a day's welding. I have been tacking and aligning all week! I am working up the courage to dive in and finish it...and that's for a simple table! Anyway, I understand completely the fear to dive in too fast.

Frank Canale
07-29-2019, 08:58 PM
most welders have set a table or two on fire, me included..

RJCOX
07-29-2019, 09:03 PM
My "table" is a plastic topped folding table with 3/4 sub-floor laid on and some 16g mild steel sheets that I mistakenly bought at Tractor Supply thinking I would use them.

I did.

Didn't set the table on fire, but I did melt a small hole where the metal wasn't...

Shhhhh....don't tell Dad, it's his table.

RJCOX
07-29-2019, 09:07 PM
Cross posted:

I have the best memories of my Dad and his TR (rescued from the neighbor's drive porch, and the neighbor's kids) so many years ago. I'd always appreciated the sweep of the wings and the roar of that little 4 banger, but when I got to drive a "fully" restored one, I was hooked.


When my car came to me (in pieces) it was just going to be a fun project to do with Dad. He just stepped back and let me go. He'd identify a part if I couldn't, and show me where it was on his car. I let my ardor cool this past winter but did get some little stuff done and sorted the thousands (millions?) of pieces that came with my car. The trip to the Roadster Factory and the Memorial Run for Charles clinched it.


I came back energized and the only thing slowing me down (last week) was the heat. August is nigh on here and I don't think she'll be done by the first (not likely) but I will have a running engine (fingers crossed) in my frame.


Believe it or not, not counting the body stuff left to do (weld and fit) I only have the two MCs and Slave to rebuild. But of course, after paint, there is the reassembly.


But let's not get ahead of ourselves. Tomorrow is weld day. I have a plan to do things step by step, but later, if all goes well and I am getting ready to put my floor in, I still have a prop-shaft tunnel.


Mine was cut away (or rusted away with the DS floor pan) and Frank Canale made me a new one. I know the rearward part goes over the lip, but do the sides go on top of, or under the floor pans? I think on top, since the gearbox cover goes on top as well, but that's just my logic.


Ron

Frank Canale
07-29-2019, 11:40 PM
The Rear of the prop shaft tunnel goes over the flange of the rear shelf. The floor pans go on top of the bottom flanges of the prop shaft tunnel. Good luck with the welding, remember measure twice, tack once. Enjoy the day! Frank

DavidApp
07-29-2019, 11:55 PM
This is how I found my TR floor to tunnel junction.

I had to replace the bottom edge of the tunnel and rear deck.

David

59855

RJCOX
07-30-2019, 09:01 AM
Took me a minute to figure out the orientation of the pic, but I got it.

I'm guessing my best bet would be (since I'm still frame on) prop shaft tunnel first (maybe a few sheet metal screws to hold it in place) then DS floor pan. I guess I could get away with just tack welding the rear (maybe in just one spot at first) and a clamp on the forward edge to hold it in place as I work my way forward.

Tell me if you think this isn't the best practice: Sheet metal screw through (whatever I am welding together), then weld (tack or bead) and when I'm grinding down my weld, lop off the head of the screw and perhaps a tack weld on the screw to lock it in place. Then grind off any pointy end sticking out the back side. Is that too much or inviting of problems later on?

Ron

CJD
07-30-2019, 09:18 AM
The screw idea will work great, but once you have the torch all set up, it's faster to just tap a tack when you want something to stay while you look it over. It's even faster to break a small tack than to unscrew a screw if you don' t like it.

One thing...I tend to "over tack"...I put too many. That's not a good thing! One or two are ample while you take measurements, and much easier to pop loose than if you run a whole line of tacks initially.

RJCOX
07-30-2019, 09:56 AM
John, (you know, my Dad's name is John too) I haven't yet experimented with Oxy/Acetylene, kinda scared. We have an ARC welder as well, but I use the wire welder. That one I have gotten quite used to (though I have blown out a few and also had some that didn't hold. I read your posts (many times) and tried not to let it get too hot, but you know sometimes it doesn't arc right or I see that I missed.

I'll save the screws, though I think I might need them when I weld the kick panel in place. I don't have any clamps that will reach that far so I'll get Dad to hold it in place and run a couple. No more than 4, but probably just 2 and my deepest C-clamp or vice-grip. On my out now, but have my phone to take pics (and the mobile version of this site).

I do have to drop my Jeep at the dealership (electronic gremlins and a front bearing). My 08 Liberty has 325K miles on it and I've learned a lot working on it myself, but bearings and the gremlins are just more than I can handle right now. Funny enough, it still has a warranty. My brother was the F&I Manager at the dealership when I bought the car. He sold me this Max Care Lifetime warranty (really just added it in without telling me, but did give it to me at cost) and it save my bacon a few times when i was so broke I couldn't pay attention. Anyway, let them deal with those issues. I've got a list for them.

RJCOX
07-30-2019, 09:07 PM
Well today didn't go quite as I planned and now I'm exhausted and sore.

Dropping off the car took longer than expected and my ride back got stuck in traffic coming to get me. By then it was lunch time and fast food wasnt that fast.

It was 2pm by the time I got to the shop. Had to work on a noisy brake on our van and honestly didn't get the welder going till 330, only to find that it wasn't feeding wire. Too much weld stuck in the hole the wire comes out of. Wasn't me.

B pillar went great along the top and across the door area. Kick panel fought me, and when I removed my screws my tacks broke. Too hot so I started to clean up a bit. Saw one of the wire wheels that I repainted and thought I wonder what it would look like. I ended up test fitting it on the rear hub with adapters.

Surprisingly enough the adapter went on with the lug nuts that were on my car and the wheel went on fine by hand. I was able to put the knock off on and tighten it with bare hands, then a mallet. There were already 4 washers on the lugs when I pulled the steel wheel off.

There may have been adapters on my car before. The lugs seem to be the shorter variety, but I'm not sure.

I set the handbrake to locked and yanked and pulled looking for play. None on this one. Hope that I get lucky with the rest. Used wire wheels can be a scary proposition but the price was right (free). My ZS cd175s got me a set of adapters and knock offs (though 3 of the knock offs have crappy, if any chrome). The adapters got a quick bath in the parts washer, the a quick trip through the blast cabinet and a run on the wire brush wheel. Nice and shiny..

Back at it on thursday, where maybe I'll finish A pillar without leaving the screws in.

CJD
07-31-2019, 11:42 AM
It's frustrating not going as fast as you like, but every bit counts!

RJCOX
08-13-2019, 10:07 PM
YATAH! (Japanese for Huzzah!)


Well after months of avoiding the A and B pillars/sill/floor pan, I finally buckled down and did it. I had some fits and starts since whenever I put weight on the sill, it seemed to want to turn inward on the bottom. I tried a bunch of different things and none seemed to work. Finally used a furniture clamp (long) and set it across the sills from the top and cranked down on it. Then I ran a sheet metal screw thru to hold it in place. Ran my weld from the back first checked my door gaps (still good) and did the same for the front, checking for distortions as I went. I was able to turn the heat up on the welder to get good penetration and filled the screw holes (after I removed the screws) with weld.


After I unclamped everything my welds held and I ground off the the high spots (still have to figure out how to reach into a corner) and moved on to the floor pan.


I thought that I needed to trim the rear outer edge (that runs along the rear wheel well) and did only to find that I didn't need to trim it at all. So I have a half inch gap to weld a piece of sheet back into. Not worried, even if I didn't the sill and dog leg (?) meet there and it would be covered with vinyl and foam eventually anyhow, but I'll tack the piece I cut off back in. I did move forward though and welded the sill edge to the pan and tacked the pan to the kick panel and rear shelf as well as the dog leg (wheel well area). All done, moving onto the prop-shaft tunnel. Whoops!


Prop-shaft tunnel should've been put in first in my case, but only because the PO didn't remove all of the old prop shaft and left just enough attached to the rear shelf and existing floor pan to make things a bit complicated to reinstalled. Let me tell you, whoever welded the passenger side pan to the prop-shaft tunnel meant business! There are so many spot welds I don't even know where to start, other than buying a gross of drill bits.


At first I tried just grinding the welds away, then slipping my angle grinding wheel between the pan and remnant, then ended up cutting all the way down and thru leaving just the flange for now. I also trimmed away the left-overs from the rear shelf as well. There's a bunch of spot welds there too. I'm thinking of leaving those remnants and putting my new prop-shaft tunnel over/under it. It should work, though I haven't determined how the extra (leftover) flange will affect the pans when finished. Still, MY CAR HAS A FLOOR NOW!!! I still need to weld some cage nuts into the prop-shaft tunnel and weld it in place.


I almost let myself get sidetracked several times today. Looked at those sills, gathered tools, remembered that the van needed the oil level checked (325k miles and burns a little oil), then I remembered that I only polished one of the headlights and kept forgetting to do the other, hmmm those brakes were squealing a bit, no I have to get back to my TR, been too busy with the last remnants of summer (no camp, kids home full time) and finally I get down to the garage to work and couldn't figure out my next step. Then I did. Bottaboombottabing, and Bob's your uncle. See how I did that?


John, you were so right about the spacers. Tell me, if you've got the time, if the firewall to floor-pan is a bead weld, or just spot-welded? I hear about seam sealer here, but I am unenlightened. Also, in lieu of a die-grinder, what else could I use to clean up weld where three surfaces come together (corner) namely rear part of sill/B-pillar. It's keeping my rocker-panel from slipping in right..


And on that note, I'm planning on welding in my rocker panels that are currently bare metal (you know where I'm going with this). We all know water is gonna end up in there, so....BTW, has anyone drilled a hole(s) from underneath and sprayed stuff in there (Ziebart et al)? Enquiring minds want to know.


That's me caught up. Only one day off this week, but I have a few hours tomorrow morning. Meant to shake some rattle-can primer and hit those spots I ground down (we have high humidity here).


Next day off: rear body mounts. I already started to remove one, and the sheet metal underneath got bunged up so there's that to deal with too.