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sp53
05-24-2019, 11:48 AM
Has anyone found a solution for making the rubber seal on the vent lid work? I guess maybe cut it down somehow? mine sticks up too high.

KVH
05-24-2019, 01:00 PM
On my 4A I just waited awhile and the fit improved. I think the weather and engine heat helped.

Dr_Mike
05-26-2019, 11:55 PM
my new rubber seems to fit fine ( Moss I think).

On the other hand someone seems to have retapped two of the nuts that hold the lid, and i cannot for the life of me figure out what they are: they are not the same as the front pair.

sp53
05-27-2019, 08:58 PM
Thanks for the note Mike, I can get the rubber seal on, but it wants to slide up. I stretched it into place and put some blue tape on it and it could stretch out and stay there, but I doubt it. The rubber products are something other than rubber today.

My other plan is to cut it at the center of the hinge then re-punch the holes and open the whole thing up in the back and have the hinge hide the cut and old holes.

Anyways those screws should be #10—32.-- If you have not experienced the joy of putting a vent on, I could give you my method, but if you have, it would not be necessary..

Dr_Mike
05-28-2019, 02:37 AM
I think that every part is different! My gasket seems to fall into place with no fuss.

But I would like to hear about putting together the vent mechanism. I have not gone beyond scratching my head. A PM would be OK. At the moment I am trying to reconnect those darned ball connectors for the carbs.

I cannot believe the cars ever left the factory with bent stays. So much can have happened in 60 years. But there were a lot of little changes so who knows? I don't: and I will make my adjustments with all the advice I can get.
Dr. Mike

sp53
05-28-2019, 10:51 AM
You can purchase those balls and ball connectors new from TRF.

When fitting the vent lid I get new screws that are an inch long, so I can hold them better and get some wiggle room with the screw when it is a inch in the hole, but before that I chase all threads, so I can turn the screws easily by hand. Put the gasket down first and it does not have to fit correctly right away you can move it around just make sure the screws go through the 2 holes in the back of gasket. Do not worry about the spring you can put that in last. Put the 2 screws on the vent lid hinge in back first holding the vent vertical and leave them lose. I then put a point on the rod tip so it slides through the connecting barrel hole easier. Next take the connecting barrel “or whatever the link is called that the rod goes through” and put an inch screw in the back of that, so you can hold it as you fish it in place plus the screw is for pinching the rod. The barrel goes through the thin side of the sheet metal piece of the main leakage usually coming in from the driver side unless someone has flipped stuff around; there is a thick and thin side. If not fit this way around, the hole in the barrel will not be in the center of the leakage mechanism so the rod can be in the center. Now slid the rod into the hole on the barrel while your hand is in the vent hole lining up the hole in the barrel with the rod. Once the rod is in the hole of the barrel, snug the one inch screw on the barrel, so the rod will not fall out. Next while everything is still lose flip around the front linkage mechanism and put the 2 front screws in place with ears point up and on the edge of the vent hole. Now everything should be hooked up and lose. The finale adjustment is next where you slid the rod deeper in to the linkage barrel so that with the knob on the rod you can measure about 2-1/4 inches from the center of high point on the knob to one of studs for the tonneu cover that way the leakage has the correct amount of travel. Now snug up the 4 screws starting with 2 in the back. Hope this helps.
steve

Dr_Mike
05-29-2019, 12:06 AM
thanks: I have printed this to keep handy!

Alas the rear screw holes and nuts have indeed been mangled (politely put) and I have to find what size screws and thread they have.. i am guessing a #12 fine thread , if there is such thing, so I will try to find that screw and see if it fits.
michael

Dr_Mike
05-29-2019, 03:30 AM
Steve

re the rubber issue

TRF sells "weather seal adhesive" for door seals. I am going to get some from local hardware for the spare tyre seal, but it might help you keep the vent rubber in place. as i said, mine just flops in but I can see it could be a problem and i might encourage it to stay put!

Michael

martx-5
05-29-2019, 07:15 AM
... i am guessing a #12 fine thread , if there is such thing, so I will try to find that screw and see if it fits.
michael

Be careful with any screws that are smaller than 1/4". Most of them are BA (British Association) threads. They are very close in size to numbered machine screws. The most common sizes that I have run into on the TRs are 1BA, 2BA and 4BA. Below is a chart that shows the sizes and tpi. Also, the angle of the threads is different.

https://britishfasteners.com/threads/

Dr_Mike
05-30-2019, 01:20 PM
Be careful with any screws that are smaller than 1/4". Most of them are BA (British Association) threads. They are very close in size to numbered machine screws. The most common sizes that I have run into on the TRs are 1BA, 2BA and 4BA. Below is a chart that shows the sizes and tpi. Also, the angle of the threads is different.

https://britishfasteners.com/threads/

Thank you.. I tried #12 bolt and it passed right through, but 1/4 inch fine thread was spot on. I chased the threads and all is now well ( with that anyway).

sp53
05-30-2019, 07:58 PM
Just too be sure Mike, did you 3/16 fine thread that is a #10—32per inch

Dr_Mike
05-30-2019, 09:42 PM
Tried #10 before #12 and both went straight though. (But the front pair are still #10-32).
Day off today (gardening) back to the car tomorrow