View Full Version : TR2/3/3A fixed one of those brass fuel shut off deals?

04-15-2019, 11:21 PM
Has anyone fixed one of those brass fuel shut off deals lately. I swore I fix this one and have fixed them with a new cork from Moss in the past. I must be doing something wrong, or the cork is dried out, or I over tightened it and got impatient. I would like to keep the shut off, but right now that sounds impossible.

04-16-2019, 07:01 AM
I tried and failed to get it to shutoff with a cork deal from either Moss or TRF. Then found out that m TR3A did not use the shutoff. The bracket I was looking at was for the clutch line not the fuel line.


Graham H
04-16-2019, 07:15 AM
I changed my tape to a modern one with a ball type valve the problem is if your tank is more than half full fuel will run out at the pump level if you take the pipe off.


04-16-2019, 08:08 AM
Here's an earlier thread on the topic:

04-16-2019, 09:54 AM
I rebuilt mine 5 years ago. The hardest part was finding cork which was "clear", in wood terms. Most cork has knots, holes and channels in it...all of which will prevent sealing. After getting the clear cork and fitting it to the bore, it sealed perfectly for about a year. Now I have to shut off the valve when the car will be sitting for several weeks or the valve will drip, albeit very slowly. I could probably re-tighten the adjuster screw to re-seal it, but haven't had a chance to do that yet.

So...clear cork is the key! I got mine from Ace hardware, but had to go through their whole selection to get a decent one to use.

04-16-2019, 11:26 AM
Thanks all for the information and Tom thanks for the link. For some reason I forget about the -way back machine- and just go to panic. The cork has knots, I got it from Moss. I think what I did 3 years ago when I started this car was soak the cork in oil for a couple of days, the fuel pump bowl and the gas shut off cork, and they worked fine. Yesterday when I put fuel in to start the car, the gaskets in both places evidently had dried up, creating another high drama night, very high. At one point I tried sharpening a stick to put in through the gas cap hole like I heard Randall suggest years ago. Sorry but it did not work, but more likely it was me trying too hard. What finally work was I pulled the guts out of the shut- off and jammed a rubber cork into seal it until now. It just dawned on me if I would have jacked the car high up in the front, it probably would got above the fuel in tank and stopped leaking. Today I hate cars, myself, and the universe for putting through this. Hopefully, I will venture out today when the coast is clear and find some kind of something to jam in the hole. Maybe drink 5 bottles of wine to find a cork.

04-16-2019, 12:24 PM
I had so many leaks when finally getting ready to start that I made it a point to never add more than 1 gallon of fuel. That comes from many times being your predicament! There have been times where I had so many electrical fans, compressors, heaters, etc...and then got a leak so bad I was scared to pull the car out for fear of an explosion, and yet scared for the family if I didn't!

For the same reasons you mentioned, I would not soak the cork before fitting. I turned mine on the drill press until it would just fit in the valve, dry. When first rebuilt, the valve would function with significant stiffness. I think it will function again, without leaking, once I tighten the retaining screw. Like all wood, cork tends to shrink over time. That retaining screw makes the cork bulge, thereby adjusting the cork back to the size of the bore.

04-16-2019, 08:12 PM
I attempted several fixes to this valve with no success. The last fix was using a piece of ethanol resistant fuel line hose instead of the cork washer. This one failed and dumped about 4 gallons of gas in my garage and that was it for me. If I would have flipped on a light switch it would have looked like recent pictures of Notre Dame.

Fabricated a replacement using a Moeller valve. This a plug type valve and is used for gasoline shutoff in boats. It seems these marine guys are not keen on valves that leak gasoline. I removed the old valve and installed a ninety degree elbow and then the new valve. The valve support is bolted to the body using a nearby body bolt. No good pictures of the entire installation but here is one of the valve Also attached a picture of the elbow attached to the old line and the body bolt removed, ready for the support and Moeller valve to be installed. Have other pictures and a document write-up if anyone is interested. Sorry the valve picture is upside down.

58496 58497

04-20-2019, 09:53 AM
Sorrry double post

04-20-2019, 09:55 AM
If you want to replace the original valve with a more modern type google mcmastercarr"panel mount valve".
The advantage ,besides a ball valve construction,is that the panel mount lets you mount in the original bracket with the mounting nut below the handle and come in comp.x comp.
These are used were only the handle would be on the outside of a control panel.No custom bracket required in and out,no 90 up and 90 out.

04-20-2019, 11:39 AM
The solution I came up with after reading all the information on repairing one of those brass fuel shut offs was to use some - OD- ID-fuel line for a lawnmower then take some -OD and 1/8- ID for weed eater that I got at Mc Lindens hardware and stick the 2 together. I could have gotten by with just but that could walk around on the 1/8 diameter brass rod and also could have mushed in at center after time.

04-20-2019, 11:59 AM
Cool...let us know how it performs. I may do the "upgrade" too!

04-20-2019, 04:00 PM
FWIW, I really like Don's idea of making a new plunger to accept O-rings. Result should look almost totally original from the outside (especially if you use brass for the shaft) but the O-rings should hold their shape much better (so no leaks).

I'll try that next time (if there is a next time).

04-20-2019, 05:03 PM
I must admit I to like Don’s ide the best also, but it was much more involved, so I took a middle path.