View Full Version : TR2/3/3A TR3 Scuttle Vent

04-25-2018, 09:06 AM
I have a 1960 TR3, recently restored. After the body work was completed, I installed the scuttle vent with help from pictures on forum. Original components, new gasket. It worked fine but interfered with bonnet. I removed it in order to readily open and close bonnet while restoration continued. Now I have forgotten how it goes together and forum pictures are gone. HELP!

04-25-2018, 09:16 AM
Hi Newby!

Here are some photos Randall (BCF member) shared last year.


Hope this helps!
Tom M.

04-25-2018, 11:23 AM
Wow, when did Photobucket start working again?

Here's a bit more explanation, and another photo

04-25-2018, 11:28 AM
I had to do some work on the very flimsy hinge on my vent.
When the PO had removed it he has managed to unroll the hinge on one side so It did not sit down level with the scuttle. A little bending and welding later it seems to fit now.
Thanks for posting the photos Should make reassembly a bit easier.


Graham H
04-26-2018, 07:58 AM
I have seen posts which suggest the new seals are too thick and wont let the vent close far enough to clear the bonnet. The fix is to cut a slice of rubber off the bottom to make it thinner.


04-26-2018, 09:14 AM
I think I have a seal that was purchased in the late 1990s by the PO. I will check the thickness and post the results.


06-23-2018, 10:52 PM
Looking at the photos I see that the PO had lost some parts of the vent. Found this on E bay. Missing the rear part of the flap hinge but all the other parts are there.
The clamp for the pull rod is frozen up and I am not sure if it is meant to pivot or be fixed in the triangular lever.



06-24-2018, 03:59 AM
The clamp has to pivot in the arm, otherwise it will force the rod to bend and eventually break.

However, I don't see that piece at all in your photo, the hole for it appears to be empty. The remains of the pushrod appears to be stuck into what should be a plain round-head pin that connects the linkage to the lid.

Not a great photo, but maybe you can make out the clamp here. The tiny hex head bolt is what tightens against the pushrod, the rod itself should pass through the hole that is just visible between the two pieces of lever. The empty hole on the near side is where the pivot piece was drilled and tapped to take the clamp bolt.

06-24-2018, 09:26 AM
Hello Randall

Thank you.

I think it is there it just did not show in the photo.

So that piece is free to rotate in the hole and is held in position between the thick and thin pieces by the vent pull rod?
I have it soaking in PB blaster.


06-24-2018, 03:07 PM
Wow, when did Photobucket start working again?

Last month. New CEO.

06-24-2018, 04:54 PM
I am going to try to make a new linkage using the old one as my model. With the old one in hand it seems simple enough.

See how that works out.


06-24-2018, 09:03 PM
So that piece is free to rotate in the hole and is held in position between the thick and thin pieces by the vent pull rod?

I believe that's right. The one in my photo above (and IIRC the one on the car) didn't want to come out of the hole, but I think it was just dirt & rust on the center portion holding it there. After a little wiggling, it slides through the hole easily. (I added a piece of safety wire to hold it together in the parts bin.)

06-25-2018, 02:25 PM
Bit late replying, but perhaps these pics will help. Sorry don't recall who posted the diagrams so I can't give them credit. Cheers, Mike




07-06-2018, 03:57 PM
Been on vacation so somehow I missed your post.

I do have those drawings somewhere but thanks for the CAD style rendering.

Having bought a rusty vent lid and mechanism on E bay I set about getting dimensions from it. Bolts were used instead of rivits for the pivot points.

Here is the finished product. The rusty one suffered no damage in making the new one. I was very happy to see that it worked .