View Full Version : TR2/3/3A Stopcock on side of engine block

04-30-2016, 07:14 PM
I am finally getting around to installing some rebuilt carbs on my TR3. Under the carbs and above the starter, I found a stopcock that appears to be a water drain. The lever was pointed straight toward the fender. The lever will move 90* towards the firewall or about 45* towards the radiator. Is this a block drain? What is the normal "off" position for the lever?
Thanks in advance!

Andrew Mace
04-30-2016, 07:47 PM
As I recall, handle facing out (90 degrees from block) is closed. And yes, it is the block drain for the coolant. If you've not yet done so, I'd strongly consider opening it and seeing if anything comes out. If it doesn't, you've likely got a boatload of crud in the block, which can compromise cooling somewhat. Good to probe around with a small screwdriver or similar until you get coolant gushing out, then continue with a good flush.

Geo Hahn
04-30-2016, 10:12 PM
I'll confirm that straight out is closed (somewhat counter intuitive) so pushing it towards the firewall seems to be your best bet. Then probe with a wire or bamboo skewer - or some have even used a drill. If that doesn't get a flow going then perhaps removal is needed.

You can never get all the crud out through there though. When I had the head off I did liposuction with a ShopVac and a long brass tube to suck out what I could around the #4 liner though years later when I replaced the liners it still had some accumulated stuff in there.

04-30-2016, 10:20 PM
If the above doesn't work, take a piece of coathanger wire and pound the end flat (so it's shaped kind of like a shovel). Then make two bends so it's shaped like a handcrank. Now you can turn the 'crank' back and forth to help the spade tip grind through the crud.

Just to be clear, the clog will be inside the engine block, so removing the tap doesn't help much. OTOH you may find that it leaks once it has to actually hold back water pressure, so it might be worth taking it off anyway to disassemble and clean the valve. I've found that the original spring is often rusted away until it doesn't hold the tapered plug securely in contact with the body.