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View Full Version : Wedge Flushing of Gas Tank on TR7



Sunset7
06-27-2005, 02:03 PM
Well, I got the ol 1980 FI TR7 running, and have actually put about 3,000 miles on it (daily commute of 70 miles one way!)

The other day going down the road as smoothly as you please, it began to slow down, and would not run any faster than 40 mph.

Got home and pulled the fuel filter (which had only 3,000 miles on it) and a thick, mud-like reddish liquid ran out of the tank side of the filter.

I replaced it with another $27.00 filter /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif and low and behold, it ran fine, for about 40 miles, and got stopped up all over again.

Question is - is there an "easy" way to flush all this garbage out of the gas tank WITHOUT having to drop the tank and get it vatted? An old mechanic once did my other TR7 years ago in the car with a pressure washer (or so he said) and I never had any problems with it for 7 years until it got overheated and blew the head...

I know the RIGHT way is to pull the tank - anyone got ideas on how to clean it out, and any or no tank sealers or additives to add before, during, or after flushing it?

Any ideas are appreciated!

ObiRichKanobi
06-27-2005, 02:26 PM
There's no easy way to flush the tank and do it right without droppping it. The main reason is there's a "well" in the bottom surrounded by a metal ring that the fuel pickup lays in. You might be able to pull the fuel outlet and siphon some of the junk out, but I doubt you'll get it all. Another consideration is that if there's that much rust suspended in the tank, the tank itself might need some repairs (speaking from personal experience here). Another consideration here is that the fuel filter is after the pump, and the OEM pump has a small wire mesh screen on the inside (not replacable). If it plugs, you'll be in the market for a $200 fuel pump.

In my case, my tank was so rotted from the inside that just touching the bottom of it would start a leak. If I'd pushed on it hard, probably would have put a hole in it. Too far gone to fix, and these tanks are nearly impossible to find. If you find yourself in this situation, let me know and I'll give you the info on where I was able to locate one (not cheap, but has a lifetime warranty).

BTW...Glad to hear you got the FI working correctly. What was wrong and how did you fix it?

Sunset7
06-28-2005, 02:23 AM
Fix was a major air leak on hose between airflow meter and throttle body, AND replacing just about every sensor so far one at a time.

Let me know where I can find a new tank - If I am going to pull the thing I am only going to do it ONCE! Also, do you know where I can find a new hose for the one between the air flow meter and the throttle body? I used a plastic flex hose for now just to get mine running. Seems like all the major parts suppliers just don't have them.

Thanks again!!

dklawson
06-28-2005, 09:36 AM
I know you don't want to pull the tank but it really is the only answer. That said, once you pull the tank and have removed any components that can plug, I've had good luck with the fuel tank lining kits from POR-15. This is not POR-15 paint, it's a much thicker but similar metallic silver coating. It can plug fairly large holes and gaps when the outside is temporarily covered with tape. The result is a tank that won't collect rust sludge in the bottom to be sucked up by the pump. It's labor intensive to do yourself, but very cost effective compared to a new tank.

ObiRichKanobi
06-28-2005, 09:49 AM
[ QUOTE ]
Let me know where I can find a new tank

[/ QUOTE ]

Here's where you can find a new tank... Triumphs Only (https://www.triumphsonly.com/pages/main/index.html) . Scroll about 1/2 way down and you'll see the info on the tanks. They will not only repair/coat yours, but they have (or at least had) ones in stock ready to go and then charged a core for yours.

[ QUOTE ]
Also, do you know where I can find a new hose for the one between the air flow meter and the throttle body?

[/ QUOTE ]

Check with Brad at Wedgeparts Wedgeparts (https://www.wedgeparts.com/) . He has done a remanufacturing project and come up with some that are very close to OEM.