PDA

View Full Version : TR6 Heater knob won't come off



pdplot
12-11-2015, 03:22 PM
Why do my "routine" repair jobs always give trouble? Got to change out my heater cable because the end broke off in the trunnion and I'm going to install an Everco valve from Auto Zone. I push on the dot but the heater knob will not budge. Stuck fast. Short of a set of vise grips, any ideas how to remove?

TR3driver
12-11-2015, 05:03 PM
The plastic they used appears to shrink over time, and grip the shaft very tightly. On a buddy's TR6, I got them all off with little or no damage; by using some thin strips of wood as padding against the dash, then prying on both sides of the knob (at the same time) with a pair of small pry bars. I felt it was important to get a straight pull, to avoid bending the shaft (and possibly snapping it). Still took a lot of force, I asked him if it was OK to break the switch, but they all came off without breaking anything.

Afterwards, I used an X-acto knife to enlarge the hole just a bit, so it slid easily on the shaft.

pdplot
12-11-2015, 06:55 PM
I'll try it. Perhaps a squirt of PB Blaster in the little hole might not be a bad idea. I also don't care about the cable. I got a new one from TRF.

pdplot
12-12-2015, 01:39 PM
Had to brute force the knob off by cutting the cable with my Milwaukee electric saw. Thank God for power tools. New valve installed with pipe joint compound and new cable pushed through hole by taping to old cable - the old electrician's fish trick. One problem remaining - fitting the cable end through the dash hole so the chrome ring can slip on and tighten. It does not want to come through enough to get the ring to catch. Then comes the problem of slipping the hose over the larger barb on the valve. I'll try soapy water, then grease. Time out for lunch. Any tips?

poolboy
12-12-2015, 01:57 PM
Isn't there a nut on the threaded shaft, behind the plinth, that adjust the amount the shaft can stick out the front of the plinth ?
And I don't think grease, at least "axle grease", would be the way to go....maybe something along the lines of silicone or Teflon lubricant would be OK.

pdplot
12-12-2015, 05:47 PM
Got the %$#cable through the dash hole by removing the brass nut and shoving the cable in as far as it would go, then screwing the brass nut onto the shaft from the outside, followed by the chrome ring and finally the knob. Two problems remain. No way can I get the 5/8 hose over the 1/2 barb so I bought some brass couplers 5/8 to 1/2 and a couple of hose clamps. Maybe I'll make one more try to fit the hose over the barb by getting someone stronger than me to try it. Other problem is the end of the cable. I fitted a ringed electrical connector over the cable and clamped it tight, then tried to solder it as someone else did here but - the solder would not hold. I used a propane torch and thin electrical solder but no go. I got everything back together but now my horn doesn't work. I must have pulled out a wire. Now I go back under the dash - a miserable job - and try to find the problem. Why do my jobs always take twice as long as you guys and something always seems to give trouble where no trouble should be found.

poolboy
12-12-2015, 07:05 PM
Just bend a loop around that post on your Everco. That solid wire cable if you bend it right won't go anywhere.

Tom74TR6
12-12-2015, 09:27 PM
Hey Paul
It may be easier to remove the hose from the firewall first and then try to get it to slide over the larger opening.
This way you can get an edge started and twist it on.

pdplot
12-12-2015, 11:45 PM
I tried sample bending a loop in the old cable with needlenose pliers & failed miserably. It came out square, not like that perfect circle Bob Danielson made. Those cables are tough and I'm weak. No way am I going to try it on the new cable & bugger it up. Soldering on a ring seemed the way to go. I'll try a different kind of solder, and if that doesn't work (which it probably won't), I'll take a small piece of bar stock, drill three holes, tap out a hole in the top for a small bolt to hold the cable and go have a beer. As for the hose, I bought some brass connectors & screwed them together with some plumbers tape. I'll get some 1/2" garden hose for one end & keep the 5/8" to the firewall & use 2 hose clamps. It'll look stupid like most of my homemade projects, but it will work without leaking - I hope.Finally I'll have to figure out why the horn no longer works. I'll check the fuse box first although I'm sure the fuses are all perfect.Stay tuned.

pdplot
12-13-2015, 01:41 PM
OK. After a night's sleep, I finished the work. Used different solder and some flux and attached the ring to the valve. Cut a 1/2" garden hose, cut down the 5/8 hose and connected the 2 with fittings sealed with plumbers tape. Started up and drove a few miles - no leaks, and finally, some heat. The horn is ok. I put the button back in a bit off and it wasn't hitting the contact. My steering column still is loose and missing something called the torque strap. A PO cut it off leaving nuts on one end. Does anyone have one of these? I don't think it's great to have the steering column flopping around. That's the outer column, not the inner. Thanks to all.