View Full Version : TR6 Brake pipes TR6

06-13-2005, 02:41 PM
Seems the big three don't have any rear brake pipes in stock. Any suggestions? Can I get them anywhere else? Are they generic enough to buy somewhere and bend them to fit?

06-13-2005, 03:52 PM
If you have a tube bender, a flaring tool and the appropriate threaded nipple-ends then you can cutom build your own brake pipes. If you prefer off the shelf you might try the following sources:


06-13-2005, 07:50 PM
I replumbed the brake lines on my TR6 using the nickel/copper alloy line kit that I bought from Moss. These are extremely easy to bend and the kit comes with all connections. It is an extremely well put together kit that left nothing out. A pleasure to install. Now, that said, you will get varying opinions on the suitability of this metal in brake lines. It is my understanding that this alloy has been used extensively in Europe with Volvos and other makes. Most say that it is not suitable for racing. I have had no problems with the brakes and recommend this kit highly. Call Moss for details.


06-14-2005, 12:39 AM

I echo Bill's thoughts on the Moss brake lines. I just installed them while doing my frame off and they are a pleasure to use. My brakes work like new.

1970 TR-6

06-14-2005, 10:16 AM
The aforementioned brake pipes are made by automec I believe. I have a set ready for install on my frame-off. Check out triumphs only as they are a moss distributor and sell for a discount. However, this is a full set of brake pipes for the entire car and runs $80-$100.

06-14-2005, 06:29 PM

The copper/nickel line kits are pretty good. I just fitted a set of pipes onto a TR4 and it installed well, bends a bit easier than steel lines. Do watch out for collapse on tighter bends. I ended up shortening some lines that were too long, not satisfied with the common practice of just coiling up extra tubing somewhere under the car. Not a big deal, though, and very easy to re-flare this tubing after it's shortened.

My one concern with copper/nickel is that it's relatively soft and might be more easily damaged by a stone thrown up from a tire, etc. So, I just used some 1/4" I.D. rubber hose to cover and protect the more exposed sections of the pipe. Most of the pipe is tucked well up in the frame or engine compartment, anyway, ouit of harm's way. Of course, it's necessary to remove and re-install the end to slip rubber hose onto the pipe.

The clutch master cylinder pipe was not included in the set, wish it was! I ended up just making up new one from a standard 3/16" steel pipe bought locally, reusing the ends off the old pipe.

Yes, it's really not hard to bend up your own pipes, if you are up for it. Just use the old ones as guides. Correct ends might be a little difficult to find. www.fedhillusa.com (https://www.fedhillusa.com) seems to have many British-type fittings.

Another thing to watch is that the original fittings on many British cars use a "bubble", not a flare, on any "male" ends (i.e., at the master cylinders and the 3-, 4- and 5-way junctions). I don't know if this is the case with TR6, but it sure is with TR3 and 4. Put a flare on one of these fittings by mistake and it's pretty certain to leak.

P.S. Fed Hill also sells the copper/nickel 3/16" line by the foot. But, it's very expensive. Next time, I might try stainless steel pipe, although fittings might be impossible to get in S/S.