View Full Version : THRUST WASHER WOES....

06-12-2005, 02:33 AM
Like I need something else to do. I decided to check the runout on my TR6 crank with the jam-the-crank-back trick. Didn't look too good. I dropped the pan and used my trusty calipers, taking ten different readings. Again, not good. I am getting a runout reading of .010". I think .013" is the max. Considering seriously replacing the thrust washers. I have a magnetic dial caliper coming in Tuesday so I can get more accurate readings. My questions are: The runout reading (if it is accurate) is with the old thrust washer in place, so how do I get a total reading of the availible space to select the correct washer (drop the old washers out and then take a reading?) and can the rear thrust washers indeed be replaced with the engine still in the car?


Too, what a great way to look at your cam lobes, with a really good flashlight.


06-12-2005, 03:33 AM

Here is a link to a step-by-step method of replacing the thrust washers and bearings with the engine still in the car. Having the engine pan off myself, it looks pretty close.


06-12-2005, 10:37 AM

Here is the letter I got from the person who sold me my upgraded thrust washers telling how to measure the size for new ones, as well as the link to his site where he talks about the advantages of his washers.


06-12-2005, 11:13 AM

To add to the frey, I'm attaching a text file that I found on VTR.

Please let us know what the results are if you do this.

06-13-2005, 12:11 AM
Hey Bill,
If you have the pan down you've done half of the work. Once you have removed the rear bearing cap ( take note of the oriantation & reinstall the same way ) you can use a plastic wire tie to push the old washer out. The washers come in standard, I think standard is .095. The oversize washers come in .005,.015 & .030. By using any combination of these try & get anywhere from .003-006 play. I know the .003 is under spec but myself and some other owners who have built some respectable motors go by the thought that the less momentum & travel in the crank , the less wear on the washers. A sloppy .003 is enough room for lubrication. I have over 25,000 miles on mine with little or no wear. If your worried then shoot for a tight .006.

The readings are difficult to get exact because the oil takes up space, hence the constant fluctuations in readings. The magnetic dial gauge will help but your readings will still vary slightly. After you have the proper combination, install with assembley lube. Make sure the oil grooves are on the crank surface.

I hate working on my back, but it's worth it on the next sunny day.