Hi Greg,
I have tried it both ways. On motorcycles, individual cables make it very easy to obtain off idle, part throttle, & full throttle synchronization of the carbs independently of the idle settings. The individual cable lengths are very precisely adjustable. I find this to be an advantage over a single fixed linkage. If you don't like the lack of adjustability with your linkage, you can always change to cables later.

MC cables are available with multiple cable junction connectors that make it very easy. I have a one cable in - three out junction box that works very well on one of my MC's. Especially if you use teflon lined cables, they are very smooth & easy to pull. A pic is attached.
D

Hi Dave,
Cool part, but I’m not sure what I’m looking at. Is that a flexible casing and the cables are connected inside the black housing? What is the travel on it? I would imagine there would be a selection of travel lengths.
Work was slow today, so I was able to finish the linkage. I tapped some holes for setscrews in the u-joints, so I can separate all the carbs for syncing by loosening just 2 screws. The rational for turning down the throttle shaft diameter was so I could have as much meat on the u-joints for thread. I need to clean the carbs and deoxidize the old manifolds before I put them on the engine for good. I can almost (knock on wood) check one more item off the list to getting this car on the road.

Hi Greg,
Here is a better pic. A barrel with a slider inside. Cable outer housings seat in the barrel ends. One cable in, three out. Slider is counterbored for the inner cable ends.They are commonly available in metal & plastic bodies, various lengths & travel. Actually wouldn't be hard to make one but there are hundreds available in MC junk yards. This particular cable has 1 5/16" travel. It's a spare for my 1969 Kawasaki 2 stroke tripple.

I'm sure that what ever you do will turn out first class. Just showing a different way to do it.
D
Just thinking about it. Set screws on throttle linkage never did work very well for me. Once they are set & you try to adjust to a new position to change sync, the screws try to go back into their old positions.

This week certainly had its ups and downs. My digital camera was stolen from our “Secure” warehouse Monday. On the upside, I found a polishing shop near where I’m working. Dropped in and had them polish the outside of my intake manifolds. Picked them up Wednesday during lunch. They turned out great. That afternoon, found a local plating shop in the phone book. Over the phone quote of $125 minimum to anodize, but bring the parts in for the owner to look at. Went by to drop them off to the owner who said he could do the 3 manifolds for $75, which was his minimum..? Got the call that they would be ready for pick-up today. When I arrived, the owner had changed his mind about the cost. I know what you’re thinking, but that isn’t the case. He wouldn’t take any money. Gave it to me for free, and what a beautiful job he did. He only asked that I didn’t say his name. It’s hard these days to find good quality work without referrals, but this kind of service with no prior relationship is rare indeed. Hope everyone’s week ended as well as mine.
Oh, forgot to mention, these are original manifolds. What’s that, 44 years old?

Hello GregW, those manifolds came out looking very nice and at just the right price also. Do you have the early or late manifolds as there is a difference in the balance pipe bore. I haven't been able to find out why they made the later balance pipe larger. Regards, BUNDYRUM.

Hi BUNDYRUM,
That’s a little factoid I wasn’t aware of. Kind of surprising they would make a change considering the short run of Tri-carbs Healeys. Looking at the photo on page 88 of the Anderson/ Moment restoration book, that balance pipe looks larger than would fit on my manifolds. So I would guess I have the earlier version. If you look at my earlier post, you can see the balance pipe I made with SS braided hose is smaller. Oddly, AN fittings screwed in quite nicely. I think they are #10’s (5/8”).

Finally got my butt in gear and finished the throttle linkage fabrication. Did some sanding, polishing and then nickel plated the pedal bracket (and double U-joints) today. The thread “Accelerator linkage restoration” got me thinking, so I combined the bush (now a bearing) with the cable stop.

Here’s a shot with the lever in place. The ball joint with the socket will be connected to the overdrive switch, the other ball is for the throttle cable.

Greg,
Looks beautiful. So can you run a cable through there and show me how the cable stop works. I can't quite conceive how that will function. As you know I am in the process of doing something similar and I am always looking for good ideas! Details on the bearing? Size, brand, asssembly? etc.
Lin
1960 BT7 in restoration
1959 Bugeye

NIce work.

gregw,very well done, wouldnt expect anything less from you.

Hi Lin,
Here’s a bench mock-up. This picture show the orientation the pedal bracket will have in the car. It angles up towards the firewall. I don’t have any specs on the bearing, it was something I had in the garage that had a 3/8” ID and fit snugly in some steel tube I had laying around. I used a 3/8” or so length of the tube to make the bearing housing. Overall height of the bearing assembly is about 1/16”-1/8” less than the original bushing, so the lever is a little closer to the pedal box. I found some cable grabbers (Verlock Jr.) locally that screw into the ball socket. I had to enlarge the hole and re-tap the ball socket to make it work. The Verlocks are hollow, you feed the cable (1/16” stainless) into it and tighten a thumb screw to lock the cable at whatever length you want. At the top of the bracket I tapped a hole for a #3 AN to 1/8” pipe adaptor. The cable housing is #3 Teflon lined SS brake hose (wish they made #2). I haven’t decided on a final length for the hose yet, but it goes straight up from the bracket and loops around to wind up pointing to the left side of the car. It attaches to the fuel rail bracket that’s mounted to the top of the rear intake manifold. From there, it attaches to a lever on the carburetor’s throttle shaft via another Verlock and ball socket.

Greg,
Beautiful work! I love it. Will it be mounted to the firewall or to the side of the pedal box?

Lin
1960 BT7 in restoration
1959 Bugeye

Hi Lin,
Thanks, the bracket mounts to the side of the pedal box. The aluminum lever in the lower right of the last photo clamps directly to the accelerator pedal. All of the linkage originally on the firewall has been deleted (but not thrown out ). Unfortunately, I won’t be able to start assembly until the weekend. I’ll post some pictures of it going in so you can get a visual of what I’m trying to say. Stay tuned…

Nope, its too d** much trouble. But it sure looks nice. Course now if you was to drop a spare one off at "Petes" I just might consider it. ---Keoke-

Well Keoke, if I were to make another one up, I’d leave it up to you to make it work with the SUs

Thanks, I will be waiting for the installation shots! It looks great.
Lin
1960 BT7 in restoration
1959 Bugeye

Hi Lin,
I didn’t have much ambition this weekend, but I did install the pedal bracket.