ok, i have a rebuild kit coming for these carbs, i have also taken all the smog stuff off, plugs looked rich when i had it running. What needles are good for a set up with out the airpump, and misc. emissions stuff?

also do i need to buy that special tool to change the jet height? can i get by with something else? where should i start in terms of jet height?
thanks
Ed

Kit contains a diagram for needle and float height. Needle "shoulder" and little washer should be flush with the deck of the piston body for starters, IIRC.

You can "cheat" the adjuster tool need by pinning the piston thru the intake hole with a finger (so as to not put twist on the diaphragm) and use a long 3mm Allen wrench to adjust the needle. Word of caution: it doesn't take much to change the mix... 1/8 turn makes a big difference. Clockwise (viewed from the top) raises the needle, anti-clockwise leans. It'll get much clearer after you've been through one. They're very like an SU.

The VTR website has some very good information on rebuilding Strongberg carbs.

The Doctor of Entropy's method not withstanding, you can take the air valve/diaphram assembly out of the carb and just hold it in your hand while you turn the adjuster.
I hope you were mindful of the 2 locating (index) tabs on the diaphram that assure the air valve is oriented properly.
And remember that there are only 2 1/2 threads to play with on the adjuster. Any more in a CCW rotation from fully CW, and its off the threads and no amount of twisting the adjuster will have an effect.
The needle won't fall out of the air valve, but you will need to push it against the adjuster to get the threads started again.
For starters, I'd go fully CW, then set 1 to 1 1/2 CCW. Somewhere in there you'll find what the engine likes.

:shrug: I just find it easier to stick my finger down its throat than argy with the tool or disassemble the dome/piston each time. And with a ColorTune or two it takes a few minutes and you're done.

No doubt it's easier.

Poolboy, I take excetion to "The needle won't fall out of the air valve," I had just got my '6 back on the road and took it up to the All British Field Meet in Portland from Eugene about 130 miles. I got about 10 miles up the freeway and the engine started to sputter and run bad and loose power. I let off the gass and hit it again and the engine would rund fine again for about 10 miles. I'd repeat on/off gas peddle thing all the way up and back. I had a spot in the field paid for and just went for it. Anyway after finally figuring it out it was that one of the needles had come off the threads and would slowly slip down and cut the fuel off. Closing the throttle would drop the valve down and reseat the needle and then it would slowly slip down again. I did not notice it before because in traffic the throttle was always being opened and closed. The moral of this is that if you have to adjust the needle doen so much that it comes off the threads while trying to lean out the mixture you should check your float valve setting.

That's somethin'. Having the needle locking screw seated in the air valve is supposed to prevent the needle from departing the air valve even though the adjuster and needle carrier have parted ways.

One way I think that can happen is if the retaining clip isn't seated against the head of the adjustment screw. That could allow the adjustment screw to move upwards, and then the needle carrier would be free to wander around in the gap between the adjustment screw and the retaining screw.