Trying to find the brake light switch. Have done my best to twist myself into a pretzel under the pedals, but can't access it; or even find it for that matter. Not obvious looking down on the firewall, either. This can't be this difficult; I have to be looking in the wrong place.
Can someone assist?

It should be in the engine bay screwed into the 3 way union mounted on the right hand front inner wing. Its a pressure switch and will have 2 wires coming from the back. Its more or less next to the big smiths fan.

cheers Andy

heres a pic of the union with the switch fitted to it:

http://www.austin-healey3000.com/apps/photos/photo?photoid=5122292

cheers Andy

I thought that mine had given out, but it was not the case....... what problem are you having?

Simple; once you told me!
Thanks.
By the way, will changing the switch require me to bleed the system?

Take a look at this Post "Brake light Problems", 9/30//09 about
bleeding the system.

Tail and turn lamps are fine- brake lights don't work. Just checked continuity/voltage, and no wiring defects that I can find. Bridged the meter probe across the contacts and the brake lights came on. Pretty sure it has to be the switch.
Agree?

I think you hit the nail on the head.. sounds like the switch.

The switch did it. Interestingly, the defective switch on my BJ7 had spade connectors, and the replacement switch has a lug (screw) type. Interesting because the BJ8 switch has the spade type, and looked identical to the one I was replacing. I bought both types because of this and I couldn't see the threaded end while still installed.

Thanks again
Bill

"Pretty sure it has to be the switch. Agree?"

I Agree. My experience of the failure mode of the switches is that they become increasingly insensitive to pressure. I have such a switch on my Elva Courier race car (as well of course on the Healeys) and one of the things that is checked at tech is that brake lights are operative. This is done by stamping on the brakes while the tech guy observes.

In a recent race (I had passed tech) the fellow behind me told me that my brake lights were not coming on till I was deep into the corner--in other words as I was "feathering up" on the brake pedal pressure the lights were not coming on but all of a sudden would come on when I increased the pressure that last little bit. Now he may have been giving an excuse for not being able to pass me but I don't necessarily think so.

I also make a point of facing the switch in such a way that the orifice points up and allows me to bleed any air out of the switch. I reckon these switches have a couple of year life expectancy and should be replaced regularly.

Bill,
If you go to a mechanical switch you'll have "instant" ON when you touch the brake pesdal versus a "delayed" ON with the hydraulic switch. I have a mecanical one because it is more reliable and I want the tailgater, cell pone use, soccer mom, semi-truck, etc., behind me to have as much warning as possible.
Patrick

Sage advice, indeed.
For now, I should at least be able to avoid the screaming and hand gestures from my fellow motorists. Of course they have to temporarily cease the cell phone conversation and turn down the music just long enough to express themselves.....but that's another subject.

I read the post regarding the manual switch. May put that on my list for "when the snow flies"

Thanks
Bill

Patrick,

My BJ7 is having the same brake light issue as described in the post. Can you please give me some more information on the mechanical switch? Where did you order it from and what is the part number? Does it replace the existing switch? Do you still need to bleed the brake line when you install? Any help you could provide would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Chris

Chris,
Here's the link to pictures of the switch installed on my car.
http://s205.photobucket.com/albums/bb285/pyoas/Brake%20Light%20Switch%20Photos/

I purchased the switch from www.Watsons-SteetWorks.com (go to brake switch) and I made a special bracket to install the switch with(very simple hardware store bracket - modified). The wiring was very simple and I used a jumper blade terminal that holds two wires to render the hydraulic switch inop so that the mechanical switch does the work. I don't have anymore pics other than what's on photobucket because my car is undergoing a frame-up restoration with Jule Frame(in my garage.
Patrick