I had a problem with my left turn signal. The right side worked fine, but the left just made a clicking sound and the flasher unit would engage.

So I bought a new flasher from Moss and installed it exactly as the original had been.

This time the left side worked and the right side failed after the flasher made a nasty buzzing sound. I checked all the connections and tried it again, but then a fuse blew.

Anyone have any idea what is going on?

Help?

Jersey

Hi Jersey,
It would help if you let us know what model you had. You can add that info in your profile also. The wiring for the flasher circuit is different on some years.

^I agree with Greg. My car has a very interesting relay box mounted to the fenderwell that was not included in the entire run of BJ8s. It really does make a difference.

Flasher problems are often caused by bad grounds, especially at the flasher itself. Sometimes the painted surface of the firewall and rust in the thread hole prevents a good ground. Test the flasher to make sure it is well grounded.

In your case, where a fuse blew, you seem to have an overload problem somewhere. Did the fuse blow when you were trying the right side again, or did it blow when you were trying the left side? Have you inspected all the wires running to and from the turn fittings for good connections and shorts?

It is also not uncommon to get a bad flasher unit right out of the box.

Sorry if this response is just telling you to check everything, but you have to go in order when you are looking for electrical faults and when it comes to flashers, I've seen them fail for just about every conceivable reason from the trafficator switch to the bulbs and everything in between.

Good day Jersey. Having the same problem with my BJ7. On mine the left side turn signals operate but at a much faster rate than the right side. Also the right side lights are much brighter! I can hear the small flasher switch mounted nearest the firewall "clicking" when the right side is activated but not clicking for the left side. I replaced the actual flasher relay assembly near the front to no avail. The green dash light flashes for the right side, but not the left side. I also noticed that when you turn on the side marker lamps you can hardly see the lights flashing on the right side due to the brightness of the bulb.

I did notice that on my wiring schematics some cars show two wires going back to the green dash light, where some only shows one wire such as on my BJ7. I'm thinking I may have the wrong flasher switch that's mounted near the firewall.

Oh, BTW, I've checked all wires and grounds and can make each light perfectly by using a probe at the wire ends attached to the flasher relay.

Any suggestions?

Hi Johnny,
Your problem could be; you have the running light and turn signal light wires crossed somewhere on the right side circuits.

Jersey, I just received another flasher relay from AH spares in UK. I haven't even opened the box. If you're needing another flasher relay I'll send this one to you for what I paid. It's the upgraded version with no mechanical relays inside, but looks exactly like the original on the outside. Contact me at jlore26sbcglobal.net.

Hi guys, without trying to get too much into electrics. The relay is made to operate at a specific load / current. The bi metallic strip in the relay will heat up due to the load current and then part so breaking the supply to the lamps, it then cools and again lights the lamp .The cycle time of the flashing is therefore affected by the circuit load or resistance.
The lamps are wired in parallel which in turn decreases the overall resistance of the circuit, loose one and the resistance increases, so affecting the speed. So things to check for are correct lamp wattages (l.e.d bulbs are very low resistance so need a resistor introducing or a special relay), all lamps working, due to loose connections, bad grounds etc. If one side works and the other does not, its not the relay.
Dont know if this helps, just giving a basic explanation.

While I think of it the other thing that might not get thought about is the resistance of the switches, ie the contacts within the trafficator, and the bullets at the end of the steering column.

cheers Andy

A long time ago I had a really wierd turn signal light problem on my phase2 BJ8. It turned out to be a bad ground near one of the lights in the harness. You would be surprised how a bad ground affects your lighting and not where you think of looking for the source of the problem.
Patrick.

Andy, good points raised in your post. If the flasher is working on one side, but not the other, it isn't a problem with the ineternal components of the flasher. Perhaps the connection at the flasher, but not the guts.

Thanks for the input ... after checking all connections and grounds no luck...but not blowing any fuses anymore. I will keep trying.

I have the dashboard partially removed so maybe the ground problem is there...doubt it, but I will trying anything.

By the way, my AH is a 1962 MKII.

Jersey

Hello Jersey,

Sorry to hijack your post here.

Johnny,

Can you please give us more information on the "upgraded flasher relay" from AH Spares.

I cannot seem to find anything on their website regarding this.

Best regards,

bundyrum.

Moss has them also. Bought one a few years ago for one rear brake light not lighting when pedal was pressed.
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=57652&SortOrder=1

Ed

Johnny-

I had a similar problem a couple of years ago, but with both sides. I found that the red and striped (brown/white?) wires to the taillamps were reversed. I have had no problems since switching the wires back, and now am actually running a LED light through each reflector pod with no problems. Another symptom that I had before correcting the problem was that when the trafficator was engaged, the green indicator bulb would flash 2-3 times, then not flash anymore. My Healey is a 1962 BT7 and is converted to negative ground.

Jerry

Perhaps my problem is that I am trying to test the system before I reassemble the fenders and, therefore, the turn signals as well. I have the headlights, and running lights working, but perhaps there is some ground connection missing when it comes to the turn signals.

Does anyone know if the problem I am encountering with my flashers could be the grounds with the lights to the fenders themselves. I have tried grounding them with a piece of wire to the frame, but no luck.

Please advise.


Jersey

I think (therefore I am....I think) the housing grounds to the fender and the fender to the body and the body completes the circuit back to the battery earth.
Use a jumper (battery jumper cable will do in a pinch) and ground the case of the taillight assembly to the body and see what happens.

Bundyrum, sorry it took so long to respond. The flasher relay Ahspares offers is part # ELG139 use this link;
Flasher Relay

It's the same as the upgraded relay from Moss, only cheaper. No relays inside, only a circuit board with two semiconductors black boxes. The outside looks original.

That is exactly my problem Jerry. Did you find that the wiring diagram was wrong? Or did you just switch the wires on a hunch?

To make sure the body of the light fixture is grounded, use a test light connected to a hot lead on one end and then tough the lighted tip of the tester to the body of the lamp fixture. If the tester lights up, you've completed a circuit and you know your fixture is grounded. If the tester does not light up, then you need to work on the ground end of this problem, first.

Johnny-

I'm not aware of the wiring diagram being wrong. I had the Healey resprayed in the early 1990's and the wires on each side must have been reversed when the the taillights were reinstalled. The problem that I was chasing was why my stop lamps and rear turn signals were not appearing to work when the headlamps were on. On real close inspection (looking real closely at the red lens, while my son depressed the brake pedal with the headlamps on), I found that the stop lamps were indeed working (through the less bright filament), but it wasn't readily noticeable as it the brighter bulb filament was engaged through the headlamp circuit.

Since only your one side is the problem, when your turn your headlamps on and stand behind your car, is the one taillight brighter than the other? (Do this at dusk or at night as it is much easier to tell). If that is the case, then switching the wires of the "brighter" side should resolve the problem.

Jerry

Thanks Jerry, I think I finally understand. Both my cars have a bright side vs both sides being equal. I think that can be done at the front and rear of the car. With a dual filament bulb the taller filament (when viewed from the side one filament stands above the other) must be the brightest.
I'll give it a shot.
Thanks again.

Thanks so much Jerry, I now have perfect lights all around. you were so right about having the light leads reversed. Fixing it was a problem though. When you look at a dual filament bulb as used on the early model Healeys you'll find one filament stands above the other. The one on top is for running lights and the one on the bottom is for flashing. Both are used for braking but you can see the lower one flashing even with the brakes on because it becomes intermittent. This is an important discovery for me anyway because I always thought it didn't matter which connector you put the two bulleted wires in, but trust me it does matter.

Hi Johnny,
Both filaments shouldn't be used for the brakes, they are on a separate circuit from each other. The running lights (which are fed from the red wire) should have a constant illumination when switched on. The brake/turn signals should only light the hotter filament when the brake and/or turn signal switches are activated. So if you activate the turn signals with the running lights off, only one filament in the bulb would flash.

BTW, did you miss my second post in this thread?

See the current issue of Healey marque. Norman Nock explains flasher on pages 24 and 25.