Well, I have a list of quetions as I close in on the completion of my restoration. The first big question involves the convertible top. Just how difficult is this to install properly? I have a very nice replacement top from Heritage. The last thing I want to do is screw up the installation and punch holes in the wrong place, etc. How difficult is this? Is the video tape that Moss sells for $50 worth while? Should I find an experienced top installer and just pay them?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

Legal Bill,
I purchased the tape from Moss and it is very instructional and covers the entire interior installation very well. I have been told horror stories about the top installation. The top takes some time but I found it not to be that difficult but certainly more difficult than say my MG's. Patience is the key!

John

Thanks for a third time, John. You are my new best friend!!

As John said, Patience, first one I put on took me two days, second one took three days. Good thing is the clips on the rain rail, you don't punch any holes. To me the key is centering the rear of the top to the center of the rain rail.

Good luck

Marv

Although I have a BN 2 the principles are the same. Everyone will agree that patience is your most important tool. I had never done a top prior to the one on my car. Like the seat upholstry, there were a few times I thought " no way, Im sending this thing back because it simply doesn't fit". I walked away from it more than once. But little by little I found ways to make it work. I'm very happy with the outcome. I used this forum for a few questions (one of several e mail exchanges I was fortunate enough to have with Dave Russell). As already stated, don't punch any holes until you are pretty much done pulling and stretching. I did figure out a way to secure the front edge temporarily so I could reposition it if things didn't work out along the sides and rear.

I will invest in the Moss tape and watch it before I start anything. I have not been in any kind of rush with this priject. I don't care if it takes a month.

A magnetic tack-hammer is your friend. Buy one now, along with a hundred (100) or so tacks, so you can start practising how to land them where you aim.

Here's a good case of where quality really does matter. You'll want a good tool, as the balance will be better, and you definitely don't want the head to come adrift as it's closing on the distance between your hand and the windshield. Please don't use Harbor Freight as your source for this item

I already have a magnetic tack hammer, but I'm not sure how good it is. the whole thing is metal, so I don't thing the head can come adrift.

I used a stapler instead of tacks for securing my front edge to the wood bow. When it came to the "hidem" strip I found it easier to spread it open and put in a staple, rather than using a tack and hammer. When it came to the final fitting I left it so I could pull the front edge around the wood bow from inside the car while I put a staple in to hold it on the outside.

Yes, I guess it's just a case of whatever works and fits best in your hand.

Just don't make the mistake of pulling the top too tight, as they always shrink somewhat in the sun. Nice and taut, so that all the wrinkles are drawn out, but it's okay if it flunks the bounce test

A tack hammer,(magnetic) is is used so you don't hit your bloody fingers, it holds the tack.cheers Genos2

This is one of two or three jobs I left to the pros, and am very glad. The Moss video is very good, but I think it oversiimplifies the installation. That being said, if you do it yourself, start with the top in the sun. If you do it cold, it will certainly sag later when it does get hot.