Greetings all!

I am attempting to replace the ignition switch on the GT since it no longer functions correctly.

I've run into a problem: removing the cylinder. I know ( after searching here ) that it should be possible to remove just the cylinder, but I'm stumped.

I removed a set screw on the bottom of the assembly, which permitted detachment of the connector, but I can't find a similar screw holding the cylinder in place.

Can someone clue me in? Is there a way to do this? Is there a set screw? If so, exactly where is it?

Thanks!

Garry

For th' life of me I can't remember... but if ya were still here I wager I could just drive over and DO it.

sorry.

Yeah, Doc.

Thanks for the sentiment. Probably a lot warmer there than here right now, too.

I'm starting to get to the point of sitting in the driver's seat and shouting "Open Sesame!" repeatedly until something happens.

Hey Garry. On my 74 roadster there are two shear bolts on the top of the cylinder lock assembly, which I had to Dremel two slots in so they could be backed out with a standard screwdriver. After that the two pieces of the lock pulled off the steering column, which allowed me to pull the cylinder free. I don't think there is any way to remove the cylinder without removing those two bolts, and probably with good reason.

Thanks 100DashSix!

I've pretty much reached that conclusion as well . Dremel it is, then.
Now to find my cutting disks...

Any joy?

I had to slot those bolts on the 79 to pull the switch to unlock the steering, as it came with no keys. But, the car was setting in the middle of a field and I had to cut the bolts with a hacksaw blade. Took about an hour of sawing and I finally got the lock out.

Ever saw with a bare hacksaw blade, for an hour? Dont!
I had to unlock the steering to winch it up on the trailer.
Why do we do these things? Cause were hooked!

Still working at it. Stubborn bolts. I may have to use an EZ-out

Lots of PB Blaster and a left-twist bit could help, too.

The lower half of the steering lock is now out of the vehicle. I had forgotten I am the god of precision implements. Demi-god of small tools? Legendary hero of abrasive devices? Okay, average guy with a good needle file.

Cut a slot on each screw. That took about 10 minutes per side. So far, so good.

But now, how do I get the ignition cylinder out of the lock? It should be doable: VB, at least, lists the ignition switch as a separate part number.

I'm sure this has got to be obvious.

you need to ask santa for a dremel. Everyone needs a dremel

I think he's got one...

You should be able to see some kind of release on the lock housing, the key needs to be in the thing and in a specific position for it to release the cylinder, IIRC.

The housing is as smooth as an infant's brain. Hmmmm.

Look to see if it'll come out from the rear....somewhere in the back of my memory, I remember doing that to 1 ignition switch,

Here's a pic. Jog any memories?

UPDATE:

If you look at the right top quadrant on the photo in my last post, near the top of the housing, you can (maybe)see two little dimples. Those apparently conceal roll pins.

I'm letting a locksmith do this extraction. I've spoken to one, and he's estimating $20.00 max. I could probably do it myself, but considering the cost of a replacement steering lock, I'm gonna play it safe on this one.

I'll post more info when this is done. It might be a good thing for others to know.

Another Update:

The locksmith drilled the roll pin out. Actually he drilled beside the pin and extracted it, so it's still usable.

Now to order the new switch...

The new switch should be here Thursday. I can't wait. I also ordered a bushing for the shift lever and I finally broke down and ordered a carb synchronizing tool. I used to have one, but when I sold my '79 roadster years ago, I let it go with the car...I should have known I'd need it again.

Never willingly give up TOOLS!!!

Okay. Now I'm bummed.

I received the parts from VB today. The "ignition switch" turned out to be the wiring and plug from the rear of the cylinder. That doesn't do a whole lot of good.

Talked to their customer service people, but they really couldn't help either.

Any ideas? Remember, I'm trying to replace the part that the key goes into.

I was wondering where you were going to get that cylinder by itself; the only cylinder I know you can get by itself is for early cars.

I wuz wonderin' but figger'd VB must have found a source. What does it do/not do that the locksmith can't deal with?

Ummm. Ummm. I was...wr<mumble>g...err. OKAY. I WAS WRONG!

LOL

I was laboring under the misconception that the cylinder contained the return spring. The part with the harness and plug actually does. I was disconsolately playing around with the whole thing and realized that.


I learned something...

...and it fixed the problem. The car started ( although I need an oil change after having it sit for three months) and ran fine. Not only that, but the return works, so the starter automatically disengages when you release the key.

The other bonus appears to be that the turn signals were somehow involved in the switch problem as well. They started working as soon as the switch was replaced.


I'm happy.

Now on to the hand brake cable. I need to remove the passenger's seat, right? ( Where did those pesky movers put my manuals?)

I want to jack the car up fairly high. Can someone suggest points ( in the rear) for the jackstands? My memory is kind of vague on that point.

Under the spring shackles with a short piece of 2x4 to allow the bolt ends to dig in without deforming them. Alternately you can go JUST inboard of the shackles on the axle tubes but you may find the cable routing/mounting to be harder to access on the right side then.

...and CHOCK the front wheels, please!!

OH!! If you're just replacing the cable, it's all underneath. No need to pull the interior apart.

Really? Remember it had pretty much rusted inside the sheath

So, there's nothing wrong with the ignition now?

All fixed. I screwed up and ordered the right part. :))

"Remember"?!?!? I don't even remember breakfast anymore.

If the handle mechanism goes up and down, and the pawl works (after you have unscrewed and disconnected the cable from it underneath), you won't need to remove the seat and handbrake gear.

In the event the handle is somehow craminated then the seat can be removed by unwinding the four 7/16" head bolts from the ends of the two seat tracks. This can be a frustrating job, BTW.

There is one nut on the interior of the car that has to be removed to change the e brake cable. That seat may have to come out. I just do not remember if it can be done with the seat in place. Bob

In a straight line with the rear seat mounting bolts, that nut is about an inch forward of the line and "do-able" with the seat racked full forward. Whether it is easier with the seat out or not will depend solely on how well the seat rail retaining bolts are rusted in.

I'd struggle the carpet out of the way and try access without removing the seat first. Then CAREFUL use of PB Blaster down the seat bolts/spacers/floorpan if unsuccessful.

If the seat will move to its furthest point rearward, you can get to the emergency brake however, its as frustrating as removing the seat.

Their only sales people at VB and most of them know nothing about our cars! They only deal with numbers. I've never got a straight answer from them yet. Now Moss people are a little more helpfull and knowledgeable. JMHO. PJ

VB hires telephone salespeople & have no technical folks on staff.....I've watched VB change over the years.

Moss has telephone salespeople who are car owners/lovers...& if you can't get an answer from them, you can ask for technical support & one of their marque experst will contact you.

I haven't really had to deal with VB's customer service other than this time. They were pleasant enough and tried to help, but no - not a lot of technical knowledge. Oh well, all's well that ends well, I suppose.

It's funny. My punch list for the poor, little GT was something like this:
1) fix ignition switch problem
2) fix turn signal problem
3) fix horn problem
4) replace parking brake cable
5) replace thermostat

#1 also corrected #2 and #3. The return on the switch hadn't worked since I bought the car, but the turn signals and horn had quit functioning right before the switch failed completely. It was a month with the horn. The turn signals failed about an hour before the switch.

I like it when I can replace one part and solve three problems. :))