Ok, I've installed my refurbished rocker arm assembly and tightened it down to 65#.

I admit up front I am looking for a short cut to static timing and setting my valves from scratch according to Bentley.

Here are the steps I took to avoid this nightmare. My car was running fine when I removed the rocker assembly.

1. My timing is set at 10* advance
2. My No 1 piston is in the plug firing position
3. My dizzy rotor arm is pointing at cyl No1 in the cap.
4. My dizzy points are full open (plug #1 would be firing)

I kept very careful track NOT to move anything in the engine.
I was very careful to keep the rocker arms in their original
position on the rocker shaft.

I installed the new assembly very carefully and tightened the 6 nuts slowly, at 5 pound intervals. As I tightened down, the pushrods rotated the rocker arms and pushed down various valve springs. Photo below of 4 rocker arms. Edit-Cyl 5 and 6 in photo

Q? Is there some way to avoid the lengthy static timing and the lengthy process of setting all the rocker arms adjustment screws at neutral , trying to find TDC all over again? And beginning from ground zero?

Q2 If I simply installed the plugs, wires and dizzy cap and turned the key-- what might happen?

thanks,

dale (Tinster)

No. But...

There's no need to worry about TDC, TCB, STP or anything else. You can check and adjust the clearances from wherever you are now. Just remember the "rule of 13" and adjust 1 when 12 is open, 2 when 11 is open, etc., etc.

The whole process shouldn't take more than 30-45 minutes at worst, with a 1/2" box wrench, a flat-blade screwdriver, and feeler gauges for .009" (should slide very easily), .010" (should almost "snag") and .011" (should not go through).

Odds are it would start and run reasonably well, but at least some of the valve clearances would be off somewhat. Loose isn't all that bad, but tight is another thing.

Since you did not remove the pushrods I would think your valve clearances will be close to what they were before. I don't see how anything you mention would change the timing.

But, having said that, is there something about a 6 that makes valve setting a lengthy process? My only experience is with 4-cyl which is quick and easy, especially if you're mainly just confirming the lash is correct.

Dale... you may be making a mountain out of a mole hill. Setting the valve clearence is not too bad a job. Heck you've already done the hard stuff!
Remove all the plugs to make it easier to turn the crank, then just follow the instructions in the Bently manual. Setting the valves is done while the engine is cold and I believe the specs are .010.
I know you can do this Dale!

Dale, all you did, as others have mentioned, was to remove the rocker assembly. So all you have to do now that it is back on the engine, is to set the valve clearances, which I know you know how to do.

Yes, I know how to set the valve clearances. Done it twice maybe 3 times. It is the static timing thing I am trying to avoid.

I'll take Mr Bentley down to the garage for a while.

thanks all.

dale

Make sure you adjust the valves. The rockers where the shaft was worn will have too tight a clearance, which could lead to burnt valves.

Sorry, I meant to more clearly address this in my earlier post. As others noted, you have done nothing to disturb the ignition timing, so it will not have changed. No worries there! Set valve clearances, then get in and...

If the distributor wasn't removed the timing won't have changed Dale, so adjust the clearances and you're good to go!

Getting close now!

Most likely, the easiest way at this point is to use the "Rule of 13" as mentioned earlier by Andrew. The four cylinder engines can use the "Rule of 9"...I have used this, and it works, but I would suggest that you take a marking pen and number the tops of the valves. It will make things go much easier.

What I wound up doing on my TR3 (with a four cylinder engine) is to put another "TDC" mark 180 deg opposite of the original mark on the crank pulley. This allows me to bring up "TDC" on cylinders 2 & 3, so I can set the valve lash easily on those cylinders. For an inline six, you would have to put two additional marks on the crank pulley...120 degs apart. I find this method much easier then all the others I've tried.

Dale stay away from the distributor!!! They tend to bite if you are not careful!!

Just kidding, but as the others said, no need to worry about it. You have it running well, so it will be fine.

Deep breath, Dale.

More than likely, a connection has been compromised. Have a glass of wine, then recheck it all.

with Mickey. Check to see if you have spark. If not, do as Mickey says and check your connections. I'm pretty confident that your rocker re-assembly has nothing to do with the engine not firing.
Oh yeah... re-install the plugs

...and/or the rotor....

Replacing the rocker assembly in no way has any influence on electrical (distributor) timing. If all the mechanical bits are in place correctly th' thing has no choice but to run.

Doc,

The cap and wires were off in one picture. Maybe the distributor lead from the coil is loose? Loose lead wire in center electrode? Forget to put rotor back on?

Not that I've ever done anything like that.........yeah, right Paul. Maybe not more than five or ten times perhaps.

ooOHH...

My most awful experience!! How I got my nomer! Me Da declar'd me th' PhD of Entropy fer leavin' a rotor onna workbench.................


...th' truth.


Now ya'll KNOW.

Just proves that sleeping on the job can be good.
Good job, glad your back on the road