Anyone ever use this stuff? Any suggestions before I dive in? I want to use it for surface rust on the interior of my floorpans. Thanks!
Skip
'58 TR3A

1) try to get the surfaces as clean as possible. Anwhere that's not direct rust you'll wand to roughen up the surface to give the POR-15 some purchase.

2) wear gloves, long sleeves, etc. If it gets on you you won't get it off until the skin it's in wears away.

3) it will go on just fine with a brush. I use a 1" to 2" sized chip brush to put it on.

Jody

Don't buy more than you need. Shelf life is short.

If you're just worrying about surface rust on the inside of the body, why not clean, prime & paint with a good paint instead of POR-15?

Tony...Come on. Its rusted once even though its inside. It will rust again. I used POR-15 and Rust Bullet in one of my Spits. It's worked well except for one area where I must have done something wrong. If I wasn't going to use one of these products, I would at least use DP-40 as the primer.

I buy it in the smallest containers they sell and it still doesn't last.

I figure once its properly encapsulated & the car is treated properly (not left outside in the rain with the top down, etc.), regular paint will last my lifetime.....&, remember, most of our cars now spend their life inside (that part when they're not being driven) unlike how we treated them back "in the day".

I've used POR-15 once for rust in my boot. I advise 2 things:

1. Like the guys mentioned...buy the smallest container you will need as a little really does go a long way. I did the entire boot with about 1/2 pint. Once opened, it doesn't last very long. My mechanic suggested screwing in 2 bolts into the lid--instead of removing the lid-- and pouring from there. Keeps contaminants out and seems to extend the shelf life a little.

2. The can states, "Use of gloves and ventilating equipment is strongly recommended". Please be sure to do both. Even though I was working in an open area, I had a mighty bad POR buzz and a headache for a few hours, too! Phew! Definately not a feeling I enjoyed. Killed some brain cells for sure!

Best of luck and keep us updated!--Monica

Thanks for all the great advice! I'll let you know how it goes!
Skip
'58 TR3A

And it aint cheap! I got it to last about two months or so in the fridge with plastic cling wrap and a rubber band.

A freind who had used it said you would not get the metal cap off without buggering it up after the first time you us it if any paint gets in the sealing surface.

I like it for surface rusted stuff--but had some issues when tryng to paint smoother metal on some other parts I wanted to last "forever"

Just an update for those of you using POR15. I purchased a quart a year ago and have been using it off and on since. Here is my method:
1. Use a clean syringe (get a few large syringes from a local feed store) to remove what you need for the job. It will keep the contaminates out of the can.
2. Seal the can using plastic cling wrap after removing what you need.
3. Put it in the freezer! When you need it take it out and let it warm up, the lid might pop-up, so using a rubber band on the plastic wrap is a good idea.

Paul

I suppose POR-15 is a good thing to use...however, most of us don't use our cars like we did back in the day when they were our only transportation....these days, when I do a car, I just use a good 2-part epoxy primer right after sand blasting....car will never rust with that on it.

It came with this body shell that I bought. Included are a few photos. I didnt put it on, but I have worked around the finished result.......I find it true to its reputation thus far.

WOW!! What a plethora of information in those photos.

Tony, you are paid respect to in photo #140!

The pics are my photo documentation as I progress in this project. I decided to try to do this after realizing how much I benefit from viewing everyone elses photos of parts, and work, and ideas.
I am as amateur as they come! I have only 10% auto knowledge, but I have 90% enthusiasm. And I read everything you guys write.

Thanks....didn't even realize there were pull downs with each photo - I just studied each photo....now, I'll spend hours pulling them down to read!

I was brave enough to use POR-15 on all the exterior metal work when I rebuilt my 79' F100 4 years ago, after all the patches were welded in & ground down, I brushed POR-15 over the seams & then followed normal procedure with filler & primer - didn't have any issues with it kickin' or shrinkin' & now I don't have to worry about the elusive pin holes in the weld that always show up as a nice little blister's a couple months after moisture sneeks in :-)

I used POR15 on almost every body panel when I rebuilt my Spitfire; including both side of the floors. Yes my car is stored in doors and rarely goes out in the rain, but for the small amount of extra time it took to coats the floors I think it is worth it.

Concerning buying small amounts. I'm on my 3rd quart of POR 15 and I always make it to the bottom of the can. I alway put a piece of Saran Wrap on the top of the can before putting the lid back on and I reuse the 3 spring clips that come on the can's lid to help make a tight seal; has workedd well so far.

FWIW, people say you should exhale in a paint can before you close it - then there is carbon dioxide in it rather than oxygen and it doesn't skim over

JP, that is interesting advice.

I used to have to keep guys from inhaling before they closed the paint and thinner cans.

I have no idea how to respond