The saga continues - got the new harness installed, double and
triple checked all connections - actually leaving the infamous
license plate light not hooked up yet. Turned the key
on, got the pump, engine turned over great and then with much
trepidation, flipped the light switch to the first indent.
Thank goodness I was very carefully holding the red wire as
it immediately got hot but before any damage was done,
flipped the switch off. When I burned up the old harness,
the red wire got hot at the switch and most everywhere else
but did not get it off in time and it melted the plastic
cover and the harness was toast. HELP - any ideas on where to
look first ? I also did not have all the lights hooked up
yet but did have the black ground wire grounded to the boot
where required. Should I have had the lights all hooked up
first or could the switch have gone bad due to the earlier
problems ? Not sure how it works but will pick up an Ohm
meter to check the connections as recommended before.
Thanks,
Mike

Sorry this problem is still there. I'd take a look at the pigtails of each running light. Disconnect the hot leads from the harness (leave the ground attached to the light) and put an ohm meter probe on the hot leads on the light side, then touch ground with the other lead. If you get 0 resistance, that's should be your problem. If you find a ground fault, continue to check all connections. There is no guarantee you only have one issue.

Mike, you're making it very difficult for future members to search for wiring harness information when you start a new thread for every question.

I wanted to mention this the last new thread you started, but I held my tongue.

Please continue with this/an existing thread on this subject rather than repeatedly starting a new thread, for the sake of those trying to help you.

http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/userposts/id/6663

Thank you.

Hey Randy,
Sorry, see your point ! Didn't mean to confuse anyone as I am certainly confused
enough already over this thing. If I have anymore questions on this harness
problem I'll continue with this thread. Thanks Randy I have always appreciated
your help on past questions.
Regards,
Mike

For those that might be interested I found the problem with my harness.
Apparently when the old one burnt up or more accurately, fused together,
the red wire to the right front running light also partially melted and it
was grounding out against the body of the light socket. So even with the
new one, still got the same problem of the red wire heating up VERY
quickly. I took Keoke's advice and simply disconnected everything
and very methodically hooked each light back up until I found the culprit.
Of course now I still having issues getting my brake lights and running
lights up and running but I'll work through that. Sure beats melting
down another harness !
Regards,
Mike

Good job! Patience isn't so much a virtue, as it is a requirement, when troubleshooting electrical problems (Healeys, normal vehicles or otherwise).

It was the running lights circuit (red wire) that was the demise of my Healey's wiring harness about two (2) weeks after I bought it in 1978. Those old rubber insulated/fabric covered harnesses could sure generate their share of smoke (top and sidescreens in place at the time)!

Me again,
The new harness I purchased from AH Spares in England has one white wire
that I cannot figure out where it is supposed to go. It comes out of the
main harness right where the tach wires come out so would seem to
go to the tach. Includes a push on connector, not a bullet point, but
I don't see another push on connector on the tach back. There is a small
stud with nut at the base of the tach but do not recall it being used
when I took off the old harness. Based on the wiring diagram for a late BJ8, it does show two white wires going to the back of the tach, one coming from the coil. Maybe this is it as the other white wire in the harness goes to the small bulb on the Smiths tach. Any ideas out there if my single white wire goes to the tach or maybe where it should go ????
Thanks,
Mike - learning way more than I ever wanted about Healey wiring !!!

Hi Mike,
That sounds like the wire that loops through the tach sensor then the push-on end goes to the ignition switch.

Yeah you gettin pretty good huh that is what it is ok.--Keoke=

In anticipation of the next question: yes, it matters which way the wire goes to form the loop. If your car is positive ground, this photo shows the direction for the loop. Note the arrow in the lower right corner showing where the white wire exits the harness. Some people find the tach reads more accurately if two loops are done. For a neg. ground car the loop goes the other way. Meaning feed the wire from the center of the tach towards the outer edge.

Hey Greg,
You must have been reading my mine ! And your picture is worth the proverbial
thousand words. Hope to have all up and running and no more problems with
my infamous wiring harness. This is what makes this forum so great,where else
could those of us electrically challenged get the answers they need to avoid
melting down another harness or for countless other problems. Now if someone
would only ask about how to install interiors then I can contribute something !
THANKS,
Mike

I'll be installing an interior in my old 2-seater sometime in the future; you wouldn't be planning a trip to Toledo any time soon, would you?

Hey Randy,
My BN6 is BN6L-964, so pretty close to yours. I plan to install the interior
on it in the next few months so I'll take some pictures and see if I can
return the favor for you ! Not planning on being in Ohio anytime soon but
will help any way I can.
Regards,
Mike

That's terrific! Yes, lots of pictures please, I'll even buy the film...

Wait, film went out with old British sportscars.

I am always interested in knowing of other BN6s with similar serial numbers, especially those within close range, or lower, than mine. Yours, at twenty-two (22) counts higher, could've been on the line at the same time, 14-15 May, 1958. See http://www.rfdm.com/gallery/album44/healey_BMIHT_cert?full=1

Randy, I'd be glad to help with pictures and advice from my experience doing my BN7 interior. I'm not sure what the differences are with BN6, but they should be similar. I'm less than 2 hours away up in Troy, Michigan.

Looks good Tim!

Man you can sure tell that Randy fella be dated talking about "Film".--Keoke-

Final update -

I would like to extend a heartfelt THANKS to all who weighed in on my
wiring harness trials and tribulations. Thanks to you I got it installed,
didn't melt it down again, tach works and the Healey STARTED immediately.
I could not have got through this without everyone's help.
Regards,
Mike Lewis

---HEY!!!

If what you say be true obviously you have done something wrong!!!
better take it all out again and check it better this time around.---Keoke-

Final, Final Update -
Those of you who might have been following the trials and tribulations of
my melted down harness, just a quick follow up. I followed Keoke's
and other members advice and put the in line fuse in for the license plate
light as recommended. I have double, triple and quadruple checked all the
connections over the last few days, found the bad running light as mentioned
earlier, and today went and hooked up the license plate light. THANK
GOODNESS I followed their advice as even though all connections were good
I did not know the minor internal wiring on the light had melted at some
time in the past - looked very old - and sure enough, as soon as I flipped
on the light switch, the fuse blew at once. Put another one in, and it
blew almost as quick. Checked the light switch and just that quick, it was
quite warm but no damage done to any of the new harness wiring. I will now
rebuild/rewire the license plate light which is no big deal but if I had not
followed the advice of those who know better, I would have melted down my
brand new harness. PLEASE put in those in line fuses !!!!
Regards,
Mike