Hello all,

everything is fine in the world?

For me it was very difficult today to take decision.

Today I want to change the timing chain tensioner. But the old timing chain tensioner (shown on left side on the picture,you can see only dirt in the hole) has an orifice designed by a step hole diameter 3mm into diameter 1mm.
The new tensioner housing (right side) has only a 3mm go through boring.
Can I use the new housing without oilpressure risk ?

Pic shows the motor contact area:


The old housing has a worn sliding bore,so I have to use the new one. But I think I have the risk, if the sliding bore of the new housing is also worn,the oilpressure who support the tensioner tappet can running away through the tensioner housing . So what is the reason of the 1mm orifice, or the reason of the stemped "2" ?



Thank you in advance for helping I will play for the right answer.

Bye- michel who appreciate this competent forum.

Well Michel, I would not put that new piece of hardware in the engine it is very poorly made. Plus I do not think you will get enough leakaage out of the assembled tensioner to make any difference in oil pressure.--Keoke

germanmichel, i beleive that bore should not be more then 0.076 mm. out of round, i dont remember if the n.o.s. one i used on my rebuild was a "stepped" hole.

I'm not so sure the stepped hole will make any difference in operation or not. This hole feeds through to the cylinder which pushes on the tensioner piston. You can see all of this if you turn your tensioner over:

http://www.cape-international.com/capeshop.php?parttypes=14&thepart=17H342

What this means is the total oil bleed from the tensioner is determined by the clearance on the piston to cylinder on the tensioner, NOT by the diameter of this hole.

I would compare the diameters of the tensioner pistons and tensioner cylinders, and if they are the same I wouldn't worry.

Actually, this revised version may actually be a little better as it will run less chance of getting clogged with gunk.

Alan

Hello @ all,

all for "overnight" support .

"What this means is the total oil bleed from the tensioner is determined by the clearance on the piston to cylinder on the tensioner, NOT by the diameter of this hole."

,as long as the sliding bore of the tappet is not worn.
And my old one is very "worn out" (thats the right term ?) because of the "long" timing chain.

Actually, this revised version may actually be a little better as it will run less chance of getting clogged with gunk.

This is a really good argument !

@ keoke I don`t know if is poorly made. It is exactly made by Rolon from the supplier AH spares same like on the cape international site.(The picture shows the back side)
So this is what you get.

But the question was, what is the reason for the orifice ?

Bye michel- who still don`t know what is really accurate...

Hi Mich,

Why not take both pieces to a machine shop and sleeve the holes to the correct size on either one or the other? They could advise you as to which would be of the best quality I would think.

Bob

Hello BlueRidge,
I also think about this solution. But I talked with some healey specialists. They told me that the 3mm hole is the usual spare part that they known for the last 20 years.
A german part supplier has also the Rolon tensioner spare part.
Additional I change also to a new timing chain.(also from Rolon made in India..... )-> The chain reduce the hanger,so the guided length of the tappet is 80% and the risk for oilleakage in cause of worn tensioner housing at a minimum .

With this solution I can live.

Bye michel-who finished the engine today with original BMC light green metallic paint

Congratulations on the engine paint. I finally painted my valve cover the correct color. I have not had the engine out of the car so I haven't painted the sides, but I'm happy with the valve cover.