Same procedure, tighten until the pivot binds substantially, then back off both nuts between 1.5 and 2.0 flats (ie between 1/4 and 1/3 revolution). But don't bother to insert the cotter pin

BTW, a friend of mine recently reported stripping the nuts, trying to force new "lock" washers onto the splines. I suggest using ordinary hardware store nuts (which are thicker and stronger) to force them on the first time; plus if the trunnions are also new, using a file to 'break' the edge a bit where the splines get formed. But none of this applies if you are reusing the old lock washers (which is what I did).
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Randall
59 TR3A TS39781LO (now totaled

)
56 TR3 TS13571L current project
71 Stag LE1473L waiting engine rebuild
71 Stag LE2013LBW waiting gearbox rebuild