Here's my new and more specific plan for my fuel pump install, based on much feedback from here. Please comment and add/change anything necessary. I've never done this before, so I'm (as always) a bit nervous.

One remaining question is what do I use for the hard fuel line that runs from the pump to the front of the car?

A second question is can/should I run 2 pumps? Can they be run in series with only one turned on? Too much overkill?

1. Parts:
- Pump: Carter, this model (http://shop.oreillyauto.com/productdetai...egoryCode=3339K)
- Soft line: 3/8” @ 8’ or so
- Hard Line: (size/type??) * 8’
- Coarse filter for pre pump
- Fine filter for post pump, near carbs (to install later)
- Fuel line clamps @ 10

2. Paint gas tank

3. Install sender in gas tank

4. Install gas tank and connect sender wires

5. Connect fuel gauge wires behind dash

6. Mount fuel pump
- Cut existing hard line above the rear axle and remove the long run to the front of the car
--- Blow out the remaining short run
- Run short soft line from tank hard line to filter
- Run short soft line from filter to pump
- Mount pump on rear bulkhead
--- It goes somewhere behind the right rear wheel and on the rear bulkhead.
--- You can bolt it up to the rear shelf but watch the hole or drill doesn't twist the rug up as it comes out inside the car.
--- Use some rubber between the pump and car for noise insulation
- Run short soft line from pump to hard line running to the front of the car
--- Hard line runs up the center of the car and crosses to the LH side at the front of the engine bay, with a small amount of length at the end pointing straight up towards the carbs

7. Wire fuel pump to ignition switch
- Run the white wire along the right inner rocker with the rest of the wires to the rear end. Use white wire as it is the correct color for the fuel pump just to keep it "right" incase somebody else works on it in the future.
- On a Bugeye, come out of the trunk where the fuel sender wire comes out.

Just realized that somewhere in there needs to be a fuel pressure regulator. Holley? Where does it go in the flow?

I put mine right after where the hard pipe ends in the engine bay. From there to a fuel filter, then the carbs. DO NOT GET THE CHEAP ONE from MO#$. Worthless. I payed the $$$ and went with a Holley. I later added a gauge.

The Holley is a pretty good unit. Regulates nicely even with relatively small pressure across it (i.e., outlet pressure is only a little less than the inlet). Not that expensive, either; I think it's about $25 from Summit Racing.

Bill - do you have any pictures of how you mounted the regulator?

I've dealt with three of the round dial pressure regulators over the years on different cars, and did not had good results. I switched to a lower pressure Holley unit with a hex wrench adjust (sourced from Summit Racing catalog). I believe you can also add a fuel pressure gauge on one side of the Holley unit.

I've uploaded a couple of pics (http://picasaweb.google.com/pythias2/BCFLinked#5332404750188392194) .. hope the link works..there are two pics, but this is a link to the first one. Hope it helps... I just used a couple of 10/32 screws right thru the inner fender.

Thanks for the photos, Bill. That's exactly what I needed.

Is this the Holley regulator? Holley 12-804, 1 - 4 psi.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail...mp;autoview=sku

When installing my Weber, the dealer (Redline Weber) instructed specifically *not* to run a regulator, but to match the pump to the pressure / volume needeed by the carb (in my case, a DGV). I have no idea whether the same logic would apply for other carbs though.

Wouldn't it be better to have that filter right before the regulator and pressure gauge?

Drew -

That is the Holley regulator (12-804) that I use. It has an additional port for a pressure gauge. I bought the Summit brand 0-15 psi fuel pressure gauge.

Thanks, John. Good to know I've got the proper part in mind. I've got myself all confused with the various permutations of this, so I'm going to take a step back and draw up a diagram of what I'm thinking. Too many options!

I have a weber also in mine, but it makes more sense to get a fuel pump rated for the engine rather than use a regulator. I bought a Carter Fuel Pump 2.5-4 PSI 30 GPH fuel pump and have had zero problems, the lower pressure and GPH is made for our LBC's unlike the 4-7 PSI 60 GPH that is made for American cars.

Here is a link to a list of MG alternate low pressure electric fuel pumps:

http://www.racepages.com/products/?Ntt=Fuel+Pump&N=1673

The one I have is the Carter C44P60504, comes with an inline filter, mounting clamp and connectors.



Hope this helps.
Dan

Thanks for the picture and model number, Dan. Very helpful stuff.

Is that filter on the inlet or outlet?

I like this model.

Me too!
Bill

Perhaps from a theoretical standpoint the placement of the filter could make a difference, but from a practical one, it's very easy to change right where it is. As long as it's ahead of the carbs, what would it matter?

That's the same SU that I use.

Problem with the SU is finding the bracket, as they seem to be NLA new (I could be wrong).

Shows what I know. Thanks for the links, Ray.

Inlet, should always be on the inlet side. Saves your pump from and foriegn debris, like small rust deposits.

Dan

Thanks, Dan.