Well, it's 1. May. The weather is beautiful and I have free from work. I have not started my 63 SIIA in a long long time. A friend came by with his new Morgan and asked how the Rover is doing. Well, I had to work a bit with the rusted padlock on the bonnet, then primed up the old solex using the manual lever on the original fuel pump. Of course the battery was dead, nearly. One must realize that I had last gotten fuel for this car on 28 July 2007 and had driven it 65 km since then. It's not moved in a year and a half. I pumped the gas pedal a couple times, cranked the hand crank exactly two half-turns and it fired right up and idled perfectly smoothly. Revved fine too.
Sometimes that car really surprises me, but it's a good one.
Here's a pic

I would have been more surprised if it had NOT started. Those old Series Landies are tough, practical little beasties, and hard to kill. Still, I am pleased that it runs. Would it take much to get it roadworthy again?

I drove it 28 km sunday without a glitch. It holds inspection until 2011. I didn't even have to add brake fluid.

Had a SWB Series 2, a '63 I think, had the 2.25L motor in it,front ball joints used to leak, solved that by pumping some grease in to mix with the oil, leak fixed

Intresting thought. I have hold of a 52 Jeep pickup that really needs that fix. But I'll probably just machine the swivel balls and spend too much money.
http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x288/frogeye61/52Jeep/P1040732.jpg
http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x288/frogeye61/52Jeep/P1040731.jpg

Actually, on the 52 Willys, there are some things to do.

Wire brush and 600 grit to clean the ball up.
New axle seals (if I recall, an inner one that's a pain), and new wiper felts (under the rusty bolts next to the ball).

I used to do a LOT of work on older Willys, still have a shop manual or two somewhere.

Some (can't recall if that one did) had a plug, like a fill plug, big, remove it to access the lube point on the u-joint.

If you repacked the bearings like you're suposed to, clean and lube the Wrn hubs, grease the u-joint, that plug wasn't a 90wt fill plug!

If I recall, there is nothing in there that needs more oil, once you do all of that.

The felts are dust sheilds.

I dug out my old shop manual on the 52......that one is wet, BUT when the inner seals go (next to the diff side bearings) you have too much oil and pressure, and the wipers will leak.

I cannot recall ever having to have the balls machined.
The manual says emery paper to clean and smooth.
Since the grooving (from dirt and what ever) always go in the direction of rotation, cleaning up the ball and new lip seals usually does it.

If you don't have a shop manual, e-mail or PM me.

I know it's OT, but, hey, it's vintage rolling stock!


Dave

I found out that the balls were never plated, just machined and left to rust. (something to do with life expectancy)

Fortunately like you say I think they are good enough that a bit of emery paper just might bring them back smooth enough to not destroy new wipers. From there a new set of inner seals and wipers, and lube everything in the hub nicely with grease should be enough.

I have old workshop manuals from the mid 50's. Nothing specific for the Jeep, but covering most American cars. If I need more, be sure I will pm you.

Are all the cars in that photo yours? Eclectic bunch.