I have a question....has anyone done dyno runs on a stock AH BJ8 or BJ7 to get real world rear wheel horsepower and torque data (chassis dyno's measure the hp/tq at the rear wheels and produce graphs showing the hp/tq across the tested rpm range)? I have checked with a number of the usual suspects that rebuild 6 cylinder Healey engines and I haven't found much in the way of quantitative data. I think it's fair to say the published hp numbers were based on some data and some marketing requirements (such as "we have to advertise more hp than that!!"....). Granted these are supposed to be hp/tq numbers from the crank, not the rear wheels where it really counts. And, it is HIGHLY suspect that the BJ8 actually makes 19hp more than a BJ7 with only minor cam and carb. tweaks....this is sort of an "in your dreams" number, IMHO.

Anyway, I was going to dyno my BJ7 EFI Healey but with no comparison data I had no way of knowing what would be considered a baseline. So in an effort to do some of my own data gathering and baseline development, I talked a local friend into dynoing his very nice running stock BJ7, advertised at 129 to 132hp (depending on source). This would be the first time we'd had Healey's on the dyno so we didn't have a clue what to expect. Net, net, the BJ7 put down 96.8 hp at 4,750 rpm and 132 tq at 2,750 rpm. Which would say that it's got 111 hp at the crank (rather than 132hp), using the common 15% drive train loss for a solid axle car.

I'm not going to go into all the detail on this post...my real reason for posting is to see if we can collect some real dyno data on big Healeys. Enquiring minds want to know.

Thanks,
Steve

So this has been up for a couple of days and had 40 views.....yet, not one reply. So I guess no one has dyno'd their big Healey....or, is it that none of you really care what power your car is making?? :-) How about the guys that have put on aluminum heads, or headers, or bigger SU's, or anyone of a host of performance parts that were suppose to provide more power...do you ever wonder if you are getting your monies worth??....curious. I guess I'm the odd one in this group.....oh, well it's not the first time. :-)

Cheers,
Steve

Hi Steve,
I haven't had the chance to do that since my car is still in pieces. It will be nice to get all I can out of the Mikunis. Well, that and the "other things".

Steve,

I didn't respond before because I've been wanting to do it for years now, but there aren't any rolling roads near me. Last year I found out about one about 2 hours away but I have not gotten around to it yet. And my motor is not stock anyway - it's bored, fully balanced, and extensive head work, and a fairly long duration cam with headers.

After running it with 2 HD8s on a log manifold for over 10 years with no problems, last year I put together a tripple HD6 set-up. Went thru heck all season trying to get the needles polished right. I have oxygen sensors and gage and the mixture was nicely on the rich side but in races the chambers got so hot they warped valves and even started to melt a piston once, ended the season with it off-the-charts rich at full throttle but at least it lived thru the last one (I think the extra fuel cooled things just enough). So with 4 motor rebuilds to get thru a 5 race season, I decide the rolling road was the way to go. Aside from tuning help I also want a baseline for myself so I can try a set of tripple HD8s next and compare.

Anyway, haven't done it yet but I am hoping to get to it before the racing starts in April, and when I do I will be happy to share info with you. I really like your idea because I have the same inquiring kind of mind. Please make any database you generate available to us all.

Dave Phillips

Dave, I can see where a chassis dyno (rolling road) would be extremely helpful for you. It is SOOO much better to sit in the car while stationary and read the instruments while your run the car through the gears... make changes....do it again and see the impact. I believe this is true of good running stock engines as well as highly modified engines, as yours is.

Anyway, I do plan to share my dyno data with you guys. I plan on at least 2 sessions with my EFI Healey. My EFI guy, Ric Navarro, has a rolling road minus the measurement equipment... so we have been doing initial ECU tuning on that to smooth transitions, cold start, etc... the problem is, besides not having the measurement instrumentation, his doesn't apply enough braking to adequately load the engine. So, we then need to go to a "real" dyno with all the measurement stuff (he was given the rolling road so while it doesn't have all that's needed it's better than nothing). Last Wednesday was an extremely interesting session....as noted in the inital post. What I left out of that post is that my car delivered 107 hp (11 more than the stock carb. car, or 11%)...keep in mind mine is also stock...and Ric, my EFI friend/guru, believes, based on the information he was collecting on his computer, that there is 10 to 15 more hp in there. Conventional wisdom is that a good running EFI car can deliver in the 20% area over a similar carb. car. Now we go back do some more work at his shop and then go for another "real" dyno session to see if we can find that addition hp.

Having said all that, let me say I didn't start down this path back in 2006 to get more hp/tq ... I did it to improve the all around engine characteristics (cold start, throttle response, mileage, etc.)....the added hp is a side benefit.....okay, also I thought it would be fun to have it injected.

I digress.... I'd love it if some other cars, stock and modified, would post chassis dyno rwhp/rwtq numbers so we can start to get a sense of what these machines are really delivering.

Thanks,
Steve

Steve--

A few months ago I dyno'd my Elva Courier which has a 1500 MGA race engine in pretty advanced state of tune--probably about 12:1 compression and long duration cam, etc. We came up with about 98 HP at 6K rpms at the wheels which is about right.

I'm in the midst of installing new exhaust headers and a Maniflow intake manifold, both of which may give a few more HP. I am trying to get ready for my season opener in late Feb. but I would like dyno it again to see what if anything I have gained in addition to a lower bank balance.

Michael,
Where did you do the dyno work?
Lin

Did anybody ever try the iphone (or ipod touch) applications 'pocket dyno' or 'dynolicious', I have no $$$ interest just wondering if this would be usefull.

These apps use the iphone built in accelerometer to time runs and derive RWHP

* 0-60 Acceleration
* 1/4 Mile Elapsed Time
* Lateral G's
* Horsepower
* Friction Circle
* Downloadable Timed Run Graphs
* Downloadable Skidpad Graphs

and more...

http://www.pocketdyno.com/index-1.html
http://www.dynolicious.com/

reviews:

http://gizmodo.com/5030749/iphone-apps-we-like-dynolicious-car-performance-meter
http://www.dailybuzzz.com/cars/new-iphone-dyno-software

These applications are cheap: $2 for pocket Dyno or $13 for Dynolicious.

The reports on accuracy are encouraging, but I must admit I didn't do a full research yet (BN2 is only getting ready for frame paint) Given a sturdy mount and consistent measuring methods it seams like a cheap and easy method to measure difference in tune-ups.

There probably is always somebody in your club or neighbourhood with an iphone (or loan your kid's ipod touch) We can also collect data and publish on a website/forum topic for comparison. Ofcourse everybody would need to use a similar mounting method and calibration.

Test rwhp safely...

Bert

PS: There is software to convert a laptop into a road dyno but it is more involved as it needs a hookup to ignition.

Lin--

There is a place near Budd's Creek Speedway, south of Mechanicsville, MD. At the time I was there the O2 sensor was not working, which would have been nice, but we were able to track, plot and print out HP and Torque.

I'll get the name of the place and send it to you.

Bert, IMHO while I suspect these devices could provide some good data for comparing upgrades on your own car and measuring performance level ... although I'm not keen on the idea of using these on the public highway. I am, however, a bit skeptical about them providing valid comparative data that someone in Baltimore can use to compare their car to a car in Denver. Why? A pro chassis dyno, when properly set up, will factor into consideration things like temperature, humidity, altitude, etc. and provide data adjusted for these factors that can be compared to someone at sea level (for instance, Denver is at 5280 feet so we give up real hp/tq due to less oxygen). I think this is a key value in going to a professional dyno....we, AH community, can have real numbers to compare regardless of altitude, temperature, and humidity.

Cheers,
Steve

Hi Dave,
You could always try a triple Mikuni conversion. That'll give you tunable accelerator pumps.

Greg,

Believe me I've been drooling over your set up for quite a while now. Problem is in vintage racing all things have to be 'period correct' and your Mikuni set up would deffinately be noticed by someone.

I race with SOVREN in the norhwest, and we have a choice of 'in the day' regs to follow - either SCCA or FIA. I'm not too familiar with FIA rules but they do allow webbers, trade off is you must have knock off wheels (can't have bolt-on with lug nuts) which I don't want because of unsprung weight. Alternatively according to SCCA we cannot run webbers, must have SUs - oddly enough my tripple HD6 set up is technically not legal but a tripple HD8 set up is legal. I haven't gotten any flack because at least they are SUs and smaller than what is allowed & I am relatively slow because I drive it to the track & back and don't really want a grenade motor. To further confuse... In SOVERN the cut off for 'vintage' class is 1962 (63 to 69 is 'Historic' class) So everything, regardless of the SCCA/FIA rules has to be period correct and had to be available in 1962. That's why when I was running 2 HD8s I used an early mainfold enlarged because the BJ8 came along after '62 and the later mainfold is technically not 'period correct' for the Vintage class.

Now on the other hand, Steve's EFI using SUs as throttle bodies really intigues the 'cheater' in me and I have been wondering.... Nah, never mind - too much work and I'm sure I couldn't hide what it was well enough to get away with it. Nice daydream though. Besides, I know SUs pretty well but am lost with 'hi-tech' stuff like EFI.

Anyway, the Vintage rules are part of why I am embarking on a 'nasty boy' project - I really want to do what I want without regard to who approves for a change.

When you get yours dynoed, we all want to know "the rest of the story" on those Mikunis.

Dave Phillips

Greg, how large are the Mikunis? What cam are you using?...anything else you want to share. This maybe old news to regulars but I'm not up to speed on Greg's secrets.

Steve

Hi Steve,
No real secret's, there just spread out over the forum. From what comes to mind, here are the mods.

3 42mm Mikunis. These don’t have any butterflies, so when your WOT, the only obstruction is the needle.
Tri-carb manifolds with a little porting
Iskenderian ground cam 268° duration, not too wild.
High lift 1.55:1 roller rockers.
Block relieved for exhaust valves
Aluminum head
Lightened flywheel
.020 overbore with 9:1 compression pistons
Jacobs electronic ignition
60,000 volt coil
Mallory dual point distributor, points gutted
Pertronix ignitor
Sparkplug gap increased to ½”
OK, I lied about that last thing
Denis Welsh headers, Jet Hot coated
Custom 2” dual exhaust

Hi Dave,
I see your point. I both agree and disagree with the rules. Guess that's why I think Smokey's antics were so funny. I loved the story where the tech inspectors took his gas tank out and he still drove the car away.

Greg, I would love to see what your rig would put down in a dyno pull.....sounds like a really sweet package!

Cheers,
Steve

Well with all this Dyno talk I thought it was time to chime in. Oh, and it's great to hear from you Dave and I love my spline drive knock-offs by the way......unsprung weight and all.

Here's my story. My '57 100-6 MM currently has a 1960 2912cc mildly tuned for track/street use, it's street legal. Like Dave I have ran two 2" SU HD8's on a log manifold, I believe he has more head work and taller cam, etc. I put the car on the dyno at Lyonings here in Portland after the 2nd SOVREN
race last year and was so disappointed with the numbers, I really didn't want to share. Since I've been mining for more HP and even more torque this off season my old dyno readings will old news.................I hope. I run Sunco 110 standard and pulled RWHP=126@ 4618 RPM and
RWTQ =161@ 3100 RPM. Now I know why most people quote flywheel numbers.

The good news is the twin SU's are gone for this season along with about 100lbs. of unwanted weight
(The Mayer diet). In my research for cams to mate up with the triple 2" SU HD8's on the Ruddspeed performance manifold I'm using for this season I contacted Mark Baker owner of Sport and Specialty who has built a similar motor. Here's part of Mark's email to me.

"Bill's engine was built to try to do what is usually not a good idea. A design that was both good for track events and road worthy. It doesn't have the huge duration camshaft that full race engines have. It has a 290 degree duration with .305 lift. He's using a 1:65 roller rocker ratio which gives him approximately .500 lift at the valve. The cam is advanced to 105 degrees to help with the torque. The block had to be relieved for the exhaust values." Compression 10.03 to 1, the power is linear and consistent and pulls well through the midrange to 6000. Dyno rolling road showed 180 RWHP on pump gas.

Not bad for a streetable Healey. Hey Dave, see ya at the "Defrost Kick-Off"..................If I can get everything back together in time!

Dougie

Dougie, thanks so much for chiming in!! This is the kind of information that is really helpfull in understanding what kind of real world hp/tq our cars are putting down. It seems from your note that you also have the head flowed, hotter cam (specs?), compression?, maybe headers?, etc..... I believe this also further adds to the thought that the advertised hp/tq are quite optimistic. It also speaks to the reality that I don't think most any of us can accurately judge what our cars are putting out... this isn't a knock to Dougie....certainly we thought my stock EFI Healey was going to better than 107 rwhp the first time out.... we still believe it has 120-130 rwhp with tuning but time will tell.

AH Spares has some dyno graphs (http://www.ahspares.co.uk/en/Media/Default.aspx?Play=Movie) on their website that shows a stock BJ8 putting down about 83 rwhp and their stage 2 6 injected Healey putting about 104 rwhp....which they are quite proud of because it's 24% improvement. So, is a good stock BJ8 really an 83 rwhp car.... which is about to say about 100 hp at the crank?

So, are there anymore of you guys out there holding back on your numbers? I believe the more data we get on our LBCs the more realistic we can be on what our cars are putting down.

I'd be extremely interested to see what Dougie gets out of his new engine.

Cheers,
Steve

I've seen some published graphs somewhere (I have copies of them in Excel), but without the background, they're not much use now. I think they were in one of the Healey books.

Keep in mind when calculating flywheel horspower that it's 15% loss of the flywheel horsepower, not of the rear wheels.

Assuming a 20% loss, just multiply your rwhp by 1.25.

Clayton used to teach that the rear wheel measured horsepower(they sold chassis dynos, worked on one in 73-74) was 35% less than flywheel horsepower which was 10% less than gross horsepower, which was measured without any drag, alternator, water pump, etc...

Bob A.... not sure if you are correcting me or just making a point? I've been told by a number of sources to figure a 15% loss on a solid axle car... my Corvette has a 16% loss because it's an independent rear suspension (probably some other factors but those are the biggies). I was taught to take the rwhp.. such as the 83 and divide by .85 for the 15% loss .. this makes the crank hp of 97.6 (I was just giving rough rounding numbers when I said 100 hp)... you can take the 97.6 and subtract 15% and it gets you back to 83 rwhp to check the math. If anyone has other approachs would be happy to hear them.

Cheers,
Steve

Hi Steve,

I was just speaking in general. I was always told it broke down like this:
12-15% for a front wheel drive car
15-20% for a rear wheel drive manual
20-25% for a rear wheel drive automatic.

You're correct in using the 15% number. If you had an overdrive, I'd imagine it would be up closer to 20%

I misread your first post about your power numbers.

Steve,

This has been out there for a while, didn't know if you had seen it yet. Looks pretty accurate for the motor they built.

Doug

http://www.myaustinhealey.com/dyno_sheet.html

Doug,
I had seen this before but forgot about it.... love the black/white Healey. I agree with you, based on the research I've done I think the output graphs are pretty accurate for that level motor.....and, it's a torque monster...really strong. Thanks for bringing it back up!!

Cheers,
Steve

Hi guys,

I'm mostly a lurker here about every day, but don't feel that I have much to contribute, just soak up information. I'm restoring my Father 100/6 BN4, that he raced through the 60's. He had some dyno trip notes from about '66. This engine made about 150HP at the RW and about 190 ft lbs. He had two egnines I think this was the 12 to 1, 2.6 with a niceley done head, stock ratio rockers, Delong cam (don't know the specs), headers that he made (none were comercially avaiable), and through bored HD6's. What I'm getting at is the numbers sound like they are in the ball park, of course every dyno is a little different.

Barry

Barry,

Good to hear from you again. Keep us posted on your progress with old # 7. We need more Big Healeys on the track.

Dougie

Barry, thanks for that....I think we're beginning to see a pattern, which is a good thing :-).

Doug, great pic!....your car looks really super!!

Cheers,
Steve

Steve and others:

On Thursday I will be visiting the VIPER Drivetrain and Performance Lab at VIR (Virginia International Raceway). I have scheduled the day to put my car on the dyno, get some performance assessments and do some tuning. I am in the process of doing some research on the process, but wondered what advice the Forum posters might share on specific things I should hope to accomplish while I am paying for the machine and technician time. I don't know much about this so any tips would be appreciated. My primary goal is to get the engine tuned as well as possible before I undertake my cross-country trip in May.

The Lab was written up in the January Issue of Classic Motorsports.

Cheers,

Lin

If the time includes gas analyzer testing in addition to the rolling Dyno test, I would HIGHLY recommend purchasing a variety of SU needles (some fatter, some thinner) which will allow you to fine tune the mixture under various loads - this will give you the added advantage of more power and better fuel mileage.

Properly done, you can increase power on your car 5%+ , and maybe improve mileage 10%+. Time well spent if you plan on driving the car all the time.

If needed I have an SU Burlen needle catalog and can photocopy the relevant pages for you. What is the stock needle for your car, and the lean needle?

SU Burlen stocks most of the needles....

Lin, I'll look forward to your results. I agree with Alan's suggest of carb needles. I'm also assuming they have a good timing gun to find the optimun static dist. setting...I doubt you'll be able to change the dist. curve at that session but if you can that could be beneficial.

Have fun, take you camera.

Cheers,
Steve

Alan and Steve,

Well unfortunately I cannot play with needle replacement this trip. I have no time to get alternative needles.I had to take the slot on Thursday for the equipment. They are starting to get busy with race season approaching. So I will just have to get it as close to optimal as possible and perhaps go back again later.

I will definitely take my camera and plenty of notes!

Lin

Hi Lin,

If you don't have a selection of needles a cheap trick is to move the needle up and down in the piston. Take a dial caliper with you and make a note of where you are starting. Depending on the profile of the needle you have .010, or .020 thou change can make a signifacnt difference. Also they can be moved a considerable amount in either direction.

Barry

Guys

Was searching the healey list for something else and Jack posted this for his bj8:

quote "Yesterday I took my car to a Speed Center to have my carbs adjusted and
the ignition checked. It's a bit frightening to see a beautiful BJ8
being rigged onto two rollers, being wired like a nearly dead patient in
a hospital ward to a computer and then the brand new engine is carefully
brought up to 3000 rpm, cooled down, run up to 4000 rpm, cooled down and
then up to 5000 rpm. End result was 137.5 real horsepower out of the
rear wheels at 4878 rpm and a max. torque of 253 Nm at 1717 rpm."

Andy

To put that in context, And compare Jack's std BJ8 with electronic ignition against Chris's Black and white race car :
http://www.myaustinhealey.com/dyno_sheet.html

All at rear wheels:
Jack 137.5 hp at 4878 rpm with max 253 Nm torque
Chris 159 hp at 4800 rpm with max 339 Nm torque

Not bad for a pretty std BJ8

But adding on the 15% or 1.25 for crank figures you get 158 / 171 hp ?

Quite a bit more than factory 150hp?

Andy

Hi Guys:

Just returned from the Virginia Institute for Performance Engineering and Research at Virginia International Raceway (VIR). I had a fun and informative day. VIPER is a joint venture involving Virgina Tech, Old Dominion University, VIR and Institute for Advanced Learning and Research. Victor Seaber was the engineer with whom I worked. He was assisted by Corey.

My goals for the exercise were to get some baseline data on my car's performance and to tune the car for best behavior at highway speed - the 60 to 70 mph range. I am making a 7,000 mile cross-country (and back) trip in May hence my desire for smooth running and as efficient operation as is possible with these motors. We are avoiding interstates on the trip so 60 to 70 is about right. It isn't a race car so peak power and maximum performance weren't too important to me. I told Victor to only push it to 4,500 rpm.

I have a BT7 block with pistons 40 over, BJ8 cam grind, Denis Welch Aluminum Head, 1-2-3 electronic distributor, Phoenix headers with 2" exhaust, lightened flywheel.

Rear wheel HP was 113.2. So is that 130.18 HP at the crank?
Rear wheel torque 146.8

Disappointment of the day - there was no instrumentation (digital or analog) that could measure the smile on my face from driving the Bloody Beast the three hours from my home to the lab!

Most satisfying experience of the day - We changed almost nothing about the setup of the car. We experimented with timing (but returned to original setting) and did enrich the mixture at high speed ever so slightly. So, I was happy to have my previous work validated rather than disappointed with how out of tune the car might have been.

Here are a few photos taken at the lab:

That's a beautiful facitlity!!...and your car looks super! The way I was taught to calculate it was 113.2 divided by .85(the 15% drivetrain loss on a solid axle car)giving 133.2 at the crank. What was your rpm at that reading? Did you get a graph of the hp/tq curves? I wonder how much more there was if you ran it up to 5,200 redline?...you might get a sense of that from the graphs...i.e. had the curve rolled over and was headed down or was it still climbing.

Thanks for sharing! Sounds like a fun day all around (trip there and the experience).

Cheers,
Steve

Those numbers were at slightly over 4500. The torque curve was VERY flat but was starting to drop off at about 4200. The Rear Wheel Horse Power was still on the rise, but beginning to flatten (not as steep a rise) so there were still a few more horses to coax out of the Bloody Beast.

Their facility is immaculate. There were two race cars out of view in the garage for suspension tuning.

Lin

Well, it sounds like your engine is a real torque monster...and all things considered torque is what really gives you the punch in the back when you step on it. So it's not unreasonable to project a few more HP but the TQ had peaked...which is what you would expect.

Cheers,
Steve

Well,

I guess it was time to revisit this subject. I had another dyno run at Loynings Motor Service on Monday. With my newly assembled race motor conservatively build for power and reliability, triple 2" SU's, 268 duration cam/293 lobe lift/440 valve lift, HD valve springs, J &E .40 forged flat top pistons, larger ss valves, matched ported and polished iron head and custom rebuilt stock rockers, 1.50:1 ratio, etc.

After some final carb adjustments, needles, etc. my pulls were 170 RWHP @5200 rpm and held linear through 6100 rpm and 180 RWTQ @ 3000 rpm and held steady through 4500 rpm. These results exceeded my goals especially when my compression ratio fell short what I wanted at 9.7 to 1. In hindsight this should really help in extending the lift cycle of my motor.

Portland Historic Races 7/10-7/12 will be the first outing with the "fully" tuned rebuilt big six-cylinder......................can't wait.

Dougie

Dougie,

Nice numbers. May I inquire as to where you got the valve springs and pistons?

Thanks,
Bob

Bob,

As you know the sources for hi-performance Healey six parts are limited to the usual suspects, Dennis Welch, Cape Int'll, AH Spares, all in the U.K. I've found a lot of inconsistence with quality of some of the race parts these sources handle, not to mention turn around time freight, freight, etc. I do still use them a lot though may first choice is to find a U S supplier. That said, Kirks for great HD valve springs and timing chain ( same as MGC) http://www.kirks-auto.com/MGC/MGC_HeavyDutyValvesSprings.html. His springs are 112lbs. at the seat install at 1.605. Way cheaper then Welch, great quality, very help.

Forgot to mention, if you haven't done so, change out your cam followers to MGC bucket style, and get new longer light weight push rods, source: http://www.pushrods.net/onepiece.html


Dougie

Dougie, that is really strong for a reasonably conservative engine!!! Congrats! Can you post the graphs? It would be fun to see the build and cross over of hp/tq.

Cheers,
Steve

Steve - Here's the charts, I'll have to scan the graphs. The first is "corrected" the second is not.

Dougie

Wow, that is impressive. Looks like you're running fairly lean to boot.

Ya, we shaved the last 1/3 of the needles down to get where we are. My dyno tuner liked the results, so we stayed with it.

Here's the results in graph form. First one is the final for the new rebuild and the second is this year vs. last year.

Yes, I do have a new neck brace for this years race season.

Dougie

Well that's a confusing chart in black and white.

Oops - I realized I scanned it on the POS copier at work. You should be able to interpret the first graph ok though.

Dougie

What hind of dyno? I used a "Dynojet"dyno for 5 years at a turbo shop here in town,if I read you A/F ratio's right, I would have never kept making runs, any performance engine, in my experience(which is 100's of runs, with everything from twin turbo corvette's to supercharged& normally aspirated hot-rods)anything above 13.5 A/F(11.5 or 12 forced induction) & you will not be making optimum power& torque,plus if over 14.7 you risk engine damage-the higher the # the sooner the damage. cheers Genos2

Thanks for the input Geno..................I have to trust the experts at Loynings Engine Service here in Portland, OR. They've been doing this for quite a little while and have a stellar national reputation in the "vintage race car" community. Their equipment is the SuperFlow WinDyn, http://www.loynings.com/Chassis%20Dyno.htm

Dougie

Hhhmmm, looking at the comparison graphs....with that new found power at the top end you may be changing your driving style a bit.

Have fun and be safe out there.

Cheers,
Steve

I usually just share my racing exploits on the racing forum but thought some of you true Big Healey lovers might enjoy the view :

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rfUYVX9GTpc

Great weekend at the HMSA Portland Historics, still "fine tuning" though the Big Dog loves to run.

Dougie

Hello dougie,

I enjoyed the youtube but had to turn the sound down because it was 12:30 am. Keep it up.

I forgot to ask after the Infineon race, did you get to see Bob Greer.

Best regards,

bundyrum.

Bob stopped by our pits at the WCC and we spoke for quite a while. I think he like the additions I've made to the car. We both have the same spirit for vintage racing by keeping the Big Healey "street legal"...............Bring your ear plugs.

Dougie

Looks like great fun,sure were alot of cars, your car sounded sweet. Hard to open her up with all that traffic, is that typical? Genos2

Geno things usually open up after the first 3-4 laps and then you hope someone is close enough with you to dice with.

Dougie