Exactly... NFW.

If you are into a clutch job MGB, the last thing you want is someone else's iffy parts in there.

edit: I take Docs point... AP Driveline bought Borg & Beck who no longer mfgr clutches. I've heard that the other brands are not quite as good (QH / Classic Clutches / LUK). My only experience is with AP/B&B.

Someone recently had a NEW clutch assembly go horribly wrong... I think it was a B&B but not sure. I'd keep the bits for a while.

Perhaps a welder and art deco?

I'd not put used parts in another persons engine. Not worth the trouble of dissasembly.

If however I was doing something where an old part would suffice, I'd keep it around as a just in case the new ones were not ordered or seemed much worse than the used ones.

I assumed that the Clutch disc and throw out bearing were givens to toss. Good point about the timing gears however. I'd always change the gears and chain but listing the old gears on ebay is not a bad idea. I've got 2 extra sets and need them gone.

The engine I am currently building is all new except for block, rods and crank (and covers).

Two things that are often chunked after disassembly, and not paid attention to that may time of better quailty asnd proper fit than what you can buy today is cam thrust plates and cranksahft thrust washers.

When I disassembly a engine core for rebuild, that is a very importatn time, the engine can tell me many things, for instance i check the crank en float right then, cahnces are it is within spec, and if the thrust washer look good, they can be re-used and this is the proper thing to do, not being cheap. I can't tell you how many time i've put new thrust washer in engine and have them lock down a crank in the blok on the engine stand, then have to flat samd them on a pce of galls with some snadpaper taped to it, about the time all your finget tips are bleeding then you done :, aonly to find out now you new thinned thrust washer are the same thickness as your old one, so do your yourself a favor here, check the old ones before you go thru the nightmare of fitting new ones that are no where near as good f quality as the orignal ones.

nspecting the cam thrust plate is another good thing to do, often you will find it in good shape and best to reuse, and you could very easily buy a new one that binds the cranks and causes problems.

I toss the normal fastners, but you have to be smarts there are many specail fasdtner in your engine that are near impossible to find or if you can they are very expensive, like oiul pump studs in a MGB. If you are repacing the head stud kit with a new Moss-type replacment, save your old head stud falt washer, the ones they saupply with the kit are garbage, if you have the budget for it, go ARP.

I think one of the most overlooked item in a home engine rebuild is connecting rods, replace your rod bolts, and resize the rod's big end.

Sped extra money on good bearing, get King tri metal bearing at a minimum, the B Hive and Britsih Parts Northwest both carry them, money well spent, the standard County and AE bearing are garbage, and will wear out much faster especially on the rods.

Get good gasket sets, this will save you time, because they fit properly, so go with Payen gasket sets.

Good stuff Hap. I was going to contact you for tips and advice as you seem to be one of the resident pro's on the subject of engine rebuilding.

This is my first and definitely not my last. I hope to do more of these for myself and some local club members if I can. I've been wanting to do this since I was about 15 and now 25 years later I'm finally getting my chance.

I used the original thrust washers, oil pump studs and the cam thrust plate.

So far all is going well.

How about head studs? Should they be replaced.

Oil pump should be chucked too I'd assume. Does the gear go along with it?

You can mic an oil pump to see if itsw within tolerance & buy the parts to make it right.....if its a daily driver, I'd pull the head studs & examine them closely &, if the engine's not been rebuilt before, think about reusing them.