79 MGB - For some time, I have had a tear in the LH door skin, just in front of the side view mirror (vibration, metal fatigue). I have decided it is time to have it welded. To do so, it appears that I will have to remove the vent window and the outer rubber seal of the roll-up window. While I have removed the vent, years ago for painting, I seem to have suppressed the memory of how it was done. It appears that the vent window frame is attached by three bolts, 2 at the top and one at the bottom of the frame. It looks like the one at the bottom attaches the lower frame to the side of the door using a right angle braket and a stud mounted to the frame, inside the door assembly. Can I remove the vent frame by removing the 2 top screws and the bottom screw in the side of the door, leaving the bracket attached to the frame? Is there anything else that I will have to do? Is my description too confusing?
Bob

No...

You've got to remove the window itself before you can easily get the vent window out....if you pull everything out of the door before trying to remove the vent window, then you can leave the bracket attached to the frame inside the door.

Oh, there's that hugh bolt up by the top of the vent window - the one for the window regulator stop that also has to be removed.

Basically: strip the door, vent window last & then its easy to get the outer seal off (usually pop riveted to door)

Thanks, I think. I once had the entire door (and car) stripped when I took it out for sand balsting and painting. I really did not want to have to do that again. You made it sound like I could strugle and remove the vent with out removing the window. Is that correct?
Bob

You could - its hard &, IMO, not worth the extra hassle of removing the window (actually, removing the window & then its regulator is easier than removing the vent window).

Thanks. I will cogitate on this a bit and let you know what happens in a week or two.
Bob

What's a vent window?

Actually, I do have them on the '73 Midget...but they're in good shape and I'm hoping they outlast me.

As for the '62 Sprite and '60 TR3...nope...they are TRUE British roadsters! Well, at least that gives me one more retort when someone invariably asks "why mess with a sidescreen car"?

Ray

The dreaded "Crack of Doom"... Only cure is remove all the gear: glass, regulator, wing window & mounts... and don't just weld it closed. Put a re-enforcing plate behind it if you don't want it coming BACK. BMC should have fixed that with a re-enforcing plate by th' time the '64's were leaving Abingdon. No excuse.

They probably didn't because its purely operator head space & timing! Drivers pulling on the vent window to close the door is the most likely reason for it....occassionally, a windshield will 'tilt' as the weatherstripping goes bad & push against the vent window when the door is opened & closed....but, usually its us!

Watch how it flexes as you close your door with the window up and that lovely hard top in place, Tony. Repetative stress, work hardening at the very edge (where the stamping introduces a stress riser), and eventually it starts to "tear". Once started, it needs to be addressed kinda quick. Rolling a bead at that transition point would have been a MUCH better "engineered" solution. But it would have cost time and money, I guess. With the soft top, it just takes longer. The windscreen pillar & seal are the only "resistance" then.

Were that the case, Doc, they'd all have the 'crac of doom'....none of my cars have it....my '79 tht I bought new & that's only had me closing the doors has no sign of one....service manager told when I took ownership never to pull on the vent window - I never have.

Probably a combination of the 2 though.

I attribute it more to: "America: The "Nation of Door Slammers."

You've been respectful to your cars.

For instance: How many folk who've SLAMMED a door shut on one of your cars got to walk away without being politely told it ain't a Chevy, or some equally suggestive comment? Usually I tell 'em on ENTRY: "Close that door as if it were th' one in your BEDROOM."

They don't get to touch my cars....everybody thinks I'm a gentleman when Jerri gets in or out of the car....heck, I'm just protecting my doors!

And what does Jerri think,Tony?
(Of course,I think you are a gentleman,even without having you open the door for me. Jerri.)

Any way, when it comes to those vents,everything has to come off before the thing will come out.

Stuart.

Jerri KNOWS!

Well, I did get the vent out with out removing the window. Judging by the overspray on the unexposed part of the window, I had done the same when I had it painted. And I had already planned on reinforcing the back side of the door skin.
Bob

Glad it worked out for you...now, how about the weatherstrip?

If you leave the glass in be sure to cover it so the weld splatter will not damage the glass. Bob

There is so little room in there I'd think the glass would be a real liability in getting to the area needing repair. I'm the cautious type when it comes to glass (and its possible need for replacement). There isn't that much to remove in that door to risk pitting or edge stressing the window.

I'm not sure the advantage of leaving the window in the door - its the easiest thing to get out!

..I wuz bein' "diplomatic" Colonel....

hehehehe....Never seen that side of you before, Doc!

As ~IF~!!!

Well, I trust the guy that will do the welding - he has restored cars prior to becoming a motorcycle mechanic. If he suggests removing more, we certainly will. You guys may have removed enough windows that it does not bother you, but this looks like one of those jobs that will disassemble alot more easily than it will re-assemble.

And yes, I will be ordering the rubber seal - done that before.

Thanks,
Bob

If you look at the bottom of the window, it just pops out of its track...then, just a few bolts to take the regulator out of the door...only thing about getting the window out is you have to figure out how to tilt it to get it to come out the top of the door - I usually tilt them towards the rear of the door.....I have plenty of windows in case yours gets damaged during welding.