Had the Engine out to replace the clutch.
Got it back in and running.
New clutch won't allow changing gears without grinding.

After much fiddling, bleeding, adjusting, research, couldn't get it solved.

Saw Jack's post about adding a nut inside the slave cylinder to lengthen the pushrod.

This works - thanks Jack.

Does this suggest that I should purchase a new pushrod and get the longer one that is normally for the later engines?

Replaced all 3 pieces when I did the clutch, doesn't seem to be any play in the bushings, the release bearing arm "could" be bent - didn't think to check when the engine was out.

I'm thinking now that the old clutch was probably fine. I was replacing it due to severe slippage, but I'm thinking now that I just had it adjusted so far to allow changing gears, that I was actually pressing the release bearing against the clutch all the time.

TIA,
Ed

Ed, either a new longer push rod or weld a bit on the end of a short one or keep useing the nut.

I have not removed engine again, 5th time, to check my ideas but....... I have noted that the throwout bearing on the new Quinton-Hazel 948 clutch sets is 1/4 inch thinner than the orginal one in the Bugeye.

Why is this, no clue, but I expect there is more to it than just the wrong item in the box.

Tony now has another standard throwout bearing for me and I will install it when the weather cools off. Prob will be Oct. time frame.

This thin throwout bearing, in my opinion, is what is makeing my pedel go to the floor almost at high RPM shifts and also makes the clutch drag when shifting at other times.