Try, just try a 7/16 nut between the slave piston and the push rod. Might not help but then you will know.

Tried that just now either the nut slipped out (I heard something when I clutched) or it had no effect. I might just have to throw in the towel and pay to have it take care of.

What did the bores look like after honing?

Nut can not slip out that piston is tapered like a cone at the rear.

i rebuilt my master cylinder and i believe my clutch is
working now.....
hopefully testing it this evening .....z

Oh, will check back later for your results.

My honing consisted of running fine sandpaper in there, bores were okay, not perfect but pretty decent I thought. Seems like there should be a way to tell what's at fault here, I'd get my MC replaced or redone if I were sure that was still the problem.

a rebuild kit is only $8..
even if it doesnt fix ur
problem its good to have....

i think it worked for me.....z

I did rebuild the MC and the slave. I'm going to bleed it again, maybe make one of these or buy a eezibleed, or something. Doubt it's still the MC, seems I should have made it better or worse after goign through the whole systems so either it's air the whole time, or I'm barking up the wrong tree and I have mechanical issues somewhere.

I built my own little pressure bleeder, went under the car, unbolted the slave, tipped it back (rearward portion/push rod end pulled down) so bleeder is high, had son push pedal while released and closed the bleeder, pressurizer still hooked up.
Still the same though. Any last ideas before I swallow my pride and take it in? BTW the nut did not stay behind the push rod so that was never in play, could try that again I guess. It is the shorter rod, as is correct for a 1098 I believe.

see my new bleed thread as ur last resort...zimmy

Only other thing I can think of is the throw out bearing has been worn down to th' nub. Or did you change the clutch pieces when the box was out?

I've seen bent fork arms too but only from impact, not from normal use.

Push rod for 948 and1089 is 2 3/8 long,

1275 is 2 11/16 Hole center to end.

Tried nut again, much better, almost cured. What does that tell me? Hydraulics still crappy? or what? Anything crazy stupid about just running that way? with essentially longer pushrod at slave? Still a little "nick" when hitting 4th, no grind into 1st (as long as I'm dead stopped).

No, it tells you that the rod that goes into the master cylinder needs adjusted some. It is adjustable, maybe two turns longer.

Run it with the nut in there, no problem. Sounds like you just have worn parts like the clutch fork bushing and the clevis rod clevis at the clutch cylinder. Hay, the car is getting older every day.

Not to worry, enjoy it, you are not causeing damage with the nut in there.