I think I will install this tomorrow. The idea is to give me extra cooling and move some of the heat out of the engine compartment.

I'm confused....do you have a rear end in your engine compartment?

Seriously, how's that gonna help?

I am gonna run some half inch copper lines from the heater box hoses with some Tees and valves through the tunnel and to that heater core back there to radiate some heat out back there.

If you have excess heat why not fix the cooling system so it works optimally instead of doing all that work?

backflush engine
replace water pump
boil/clean/recore radiator & heater core
replace hoses & heater control valve
make sure air is flowing through radiator not over & under

Plus, install an oil cooler

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I don't understand the WHY of extra cooling. Does your car overheat? In my rather limited experience with Sprites, they don't NEED anything more than what the factory provided. That is you don't need and oil cooler, you don't need an extra fan, (tho using an electric and removing the engine fan will provide extra horses) and you most likely don't need an extra radiator! Its all cool to have (until you try to change your oil and mix the dirty oil from the cooler with the clean oil you just added).. I've run in 98 degree weather, stuck in traffic jams for over an hour, and climbed the Rockies at 4000 rpm in third gear and NEVER overheated.... but then my engine is a MOSTLY stock 1098. ....


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New water pump, hoses, I went through the heater control valve. Radiator was a used one that looked better than the one I had. I just hate to tear all that stuff back out again. It has an oil cooler too that I flushed out and cleaned up as well as the hoses. I wanted to find a way to keep it on the road this summer. I don't know what is causing it. It seems to run nice and cool for the first 1/2 hour or so and then if I shut it off, it runs hot after that.

Well, before I started running lines through the underside, I'd pull that radiator &, while you're at ir, backflush the engine.

How do you say, "DPO"? hehehehe

Think I would try a nice new thermostat. Then would have the radiator cored along with a back flush.

I'm thinking about doing the same fix. Moving some of the heat out of the engine bay is a good idea.I will be adding a small fan on a relay with temp. sending unit combined with my main rad.elec. fan to cool this aux. rad. I have cooling problems that won,t go away no matter what I do and I,ve spent alot of time on this.

It seems to me, in days of yor, some race cars had very large water tanks attached to their systems.

Maybe Hap can weigh in here about finding the correct high quality water pump. I suspect there are some water pumps causing overheating problems due to low flow and cavitation.

Was that for colling down the fuel?
I had cooling problems too Kim, that trip back and forth to the Ozarks this time, I never went over 1/3 on the gauge.
I had the radiator out and flushed by a radiator shop, head flushed, new water pump and the heater by-passed, new t'stat and hosing; whichever one of those things worked a treat, but I suspect the water pump, as it was the last to go on.

Maybe, just maybe we have some bad water pumps floating around. By that I mean the wrong pump for the vehicle.

Lookie two pumps Moss 434-540 948 thru 1275 12CD/H1745 and 1275 12CD/H1746 and up Moss 434-545. Moss catalog page 14 by the way. The latter seems to be standard radiator and cross flow as well.

I bet the wrong one even fits.

Long ago on a 3/4 race ford I had to have the impellers shortened on the water pump to slow down the water through the radiator so it had time to cool. Shrug, it worked.

So, I have no idea what the difference is but it could be larger or smaller and still be interchangeable in the head.

Guess I would check the pump part number.

Must be a reason.

Some impellers are made of stamped steel and some are cast, and the depth of the impellers vary.

Well, guys. This was something I figured I could hook up in a day without tearing the car back apart. I am not going to do anything that cannot be undone. Only going to cut the heater hoses and install some Tees and run those lines back there and see what it does. I probably do have a bad radiator but I want to keep driving the car for the season and then work on it this winter when off the road. I thought this might be a quick fix for now so I can keep on driving it. The lines going back as well as the heater core will all radiate some heat. I figure I am not far from keeping it cool right now as it takes 1/2 hour or so for it to get hot right now. It is a weird condition that I have. I can fill the radiator and drive in stop and go traffic and it might overheat but it takes a long time. If I run 70 on the interstate for a few miles, I can watch the heat hand steadily rise and when I stop after that it goes to boiling point. (I know where 212 is on my gauge because I calibrated it when out of the car) after that is might cool off a bit but still is near boiling and goes to boiling easily. I have not yet heated it up to where it blows steam, I usually shut it off and let it cool down before that.