One other point folks. See the little spacer washers no Moss number that I can see but Peter C says he has them. The spacer that goes on the top of the spindle and keeps it from being too tight against the thrust washer, Moss number 18 on bottom of page 34.

If you get the thrust washer too tight the stearing will not center, ask me how I know. I was advised that it really needs to be almost loose.

I did mine with the VB suspension rebuild kit. I didn't use the Kingpin bushings but I ended up replacing the kingpins - not because they were worn but because they were damaged by the time I got them cut off the A-arm - the lube issues are mentioned elsewhere. The kingpin bushings don't tend to wear from what I have read on this board. - and if they need to be replaced will need to be reamed.

More to the point - it is not a hard job at all - just methodical - and given the importance - it's an important fix

If your wheels are in at the top that severely, are the trunnions installed backwards? The upper trunnion through bolt, where the shock arm pinch bolt is, should be outboard of the kingpin. I've seen it many times, but I've never driven it.

PeterC

Barry, I bought some threaded rod at the hardware store. They're 3/8" diameter. I used a coarse thread rod and nuts. just welded the top nut on but a double nut there would probably work ok. I've also used two sets of bolts when I couldn't find some long enough that had threads all the way up, started with some about 2" long and then postiioned longer ones in the opposite set of holes to go the rest of the way. This is one place where the new ratcheting box end wrenches come in handy, make the job a lot faster.

Ok, one more time.

Car with engine on front jackstands. Up highish.

Floor jack under outer A frame, jack it up some and carefully remove spindle nut, jack high enough that there is no pressure on it, adjust as needed.

Lower floor jack under A frame, Down down down. when it is free you can kick the spring out, or yank it.

Replacement reverse of above.

Whole operation should be 30 min per side or so.

Threaded rod works well with a double nut. 3/8 as I recall as well. one of the few coarse threaded bolts on the entire car. A really deep socketand an impact wrench makes those puppies go on and off in a few minutes. Back off one bolt. inert threaded rod, tighten part way, remove 180 degrees out threaded rod goes in partway, now can remove other two bolts and finally vback threaded rod completely out. Reassembly is opposite of above or something like that. Once you get in there it will be obvious.

When you put it all back together and one wheel sticks out at really funny angles, trunion is in backwards. We've all done it.

God, I did it twice. Each side. Duh.

The only down side to Jack's method is that the caliper must come off and the tie rod end must be taken loose from the steering arm. You just have to choose your poison.

Springs are another issue. One's I got from VB I think it was several years ago, even though listed for a '68 were actually from a RBumpered Car. Two tries and finally ended up ordering BE Front springs. I had one of the few Off Road Spridgets in the world with those RB Springs

Post Installation, handling was indeed quite strange. When ordering ask question about colors on how spring is marked. They mean something.

BE springs should be 9.4 inchs long free measurement, 238 mm,

Bill Young, did you have to add any springs to the front of yours when you put the 2.8 in there? Just wondering, I could have spent a week talking to everyone about their cars and many times there was the car and not the person, or I wasn't sure who the car belonged to. So many different mods on cars.

He has stock springs with those twist-in supports.

Ah, like spring rubbers or are they the aluminum solid kind? I was suprised how well it handled in the autocross.