My entire trafficator rotates 90 degrees or more as the wheel is turned. Adjustable wheel, BJ8. No, its not right. I seem to recall taking it apart and determining the short stator goes into a slot which is mangled. I suspect that is your problem. Someone forced it expanding the slot allowing it to rotate.

As for the cancel, my switch won't stay where it is pushed. Push it to 2:00 while driving straight ahead and it pops back to 12:00. This is caused by the notches being worn. Springs push the pins into a notch which wears. This is common.

Try lub other than WD-40. It is not a real lubricant. When it dries you got what you started with. Use something like sewing machine oil (no parafin in it).

Here is a link to some good trafficator disassembly photos
http://www.justbrits.com/Articles/Traffic_Stills.html

BT7Tricarb,

This is a link to a piece I prepared on the adjustable steering wheel control head (trafficator). It uses some of Tracy's photos (with permission and approbation), and I added a number of my own. It contains a fair amount of narrative on the assembly procedure. It is hard to tell without looking at the car, but I think it sounds like your stator tube might be mangled where the two tubes connect. You can pull the tube up through the steering wheel to check it out.

This link will take you to the control head pdf. Click on it to download. It will take a little while as it is a big file.

http://homepage.mac.com/WebObjects/FileS...=US&lang=en


Good luck and cheers!

Lin
1960 BT7 "The Bloody Beast"
1959 AN5 Bugeye

The cancel mechanism relies on the horn and surround being fixed and stationary and this is done via the stator tube sliding connection and the nut and olive at the base of the steering box. as you have movement then the sliding connection between the two tubes ( upper short one and the lower long one ) is shot. You will need to pull the lot out of the steering column and examine that sliding junction. Tha is always assuming that the nut and olive is tight at the bottom of the steering box.

Bob

Problem after changing to a new wheel.

I followed the great instructions and pictures in this thread and changed my wheel. I used the instructions that detached the wires at the trafficator, instead of pulling through the stator tube. I thought all went well, but now, my directional signal will only work if I push and hold the directional lever all the way to the right or left. If I release the lever, the lever moves a fraction of an inch towards the center and the indicator light stop blinking. The lever will cancel & move all the way to center as it should when the wheel is turned back after the turn.

Is there something about the reassembly that I missed? or needs readjusting?

Johnski

John, bad timing with a week to go 'till SD. I assume you are not up in Tahoe now or you'd have been by. Is your stator tube lined up properly? Do you have the little tabs in the right direction (check against pictures) and do you have the cancel bar that hits those tabs at the bottom (its on the silver disc). Call me. Or we can look at in down there.

Pull the trafficator out until it disengages from the stator. Slide back in making sure it lines up with the slots. Trick: push the stator up from the bottom so you can see where the slots are. You may have to loosen the olive and rotate the stator to get the slots in a position that lets the trafficator point up. If the olive nut is loose, the trafficator will rotate.

Watch the grub screws on the trafficator. Sometimes people replace them with ordinary allen screws instead of the original pointed ones. Those drag and get hung up causing the traffictator to rotate.

The switch not staying in the turn position due to wear where the paw goes over the plastic like hump in the switch mount. Only solution is to get a replacement mount.