They're around, and not expensive to ship. I just bought a spare out of Florida for $150 plus roughly $50 in shipping. I'd vote for finding a ribcase -- the 5-speed seems to be a nice upgrade, but a bit spendy these days. You can always make that move later if you want.

I agree on the advice that a ribcase swap would be a good solution, but the comment about "modifying the body" for a 5-speed threw me. What modifications?

Ray

The bottom of the heater shelf has to be massaged to make it fit IF you want to pull engine/tranny combination. If you want to pull/install separately then no Mods are required.

Keep an eye on ebay, the ribbed-case trannies come up regularly enough (run your searches in AH Sprite parts AND MG Midget parts listings!!) and sometimes can be had quite reasonably! I have found the best deals to be the "local pick-up only" deals as that limits the bidding. We have a good enough network here where if a BCF member is local local or nearby, you could post an appeal to have one of us help out in picking it up for you, and as was noted above, a ribbed-case tranny can be boxed and shipped for around $50 - $60!!!

not sure where you are, but, here is one source for tranny's

http://www.wirewheel.com/index.php?action=website-view&WebPageID=11735&WebSiteID=409

www.car-part.com has one listed in Columbus

I found one near me for $175 "looks good" says the owner. Pulled from a parted out car years ago which presumably didn't have tranny issues and had 22,000 miles on it.
I think I'll go check it out.
Otherwise I could just spend the $175 on parts to rebuild mine I guess.
I was naughty and drove it yesterday to a car show and a few errands close to home. Then today I was even worse and took it on a 25 mile jaunt through the country side.

So what am I going to need?
Clutch plate
release bearing
oil seals
what other bearings and seals and such would it be prudent to refresh since you're in there?
Best source?
Obviously mine will need at least a few gear parts if I decide to fix it.

there's lots else -but I might stop there, assuming everything else is running fine, leave well enough alone - otherwise you're into a restoration - don't ask me how I know

there is a rebuild kit from VB i think....
u need a clutch kit, synchros,, bearings etc.
open it up before u order anything....z

Yeah, here's your mantra:

It's a Driver, It's a Driver, It's a Driver, It's a Driver...

Repeat over and over, don't let the "well I may as well..." monster get you!

I'll see about this other box then, hopefully Tuesday I'll go pick it up. I've never done a clutch job, let alone an engine pull tranny rebuild. So not sure if you do just the clutch plate or that AND a pressure plate, if you do release bearings and all that as a matter of course, or only if needed.
These components supposedly only have 2,000 miles on them, but no assumptions are being made anymore as obviously, even though mileage since overhaul is low, routine maintenance checks were NOT done, since there's an oil leak in the gearbox somewhere and she went dry, who knows how many years ago.

While you're in there and the motor is out, I would recommend doing it all.

id suggest getting a roller release bearing
instead of the carbon one....z

Engine and tranny are easy enough to pull, I would get that 22000 mile tranny and just change it. If they said there is only 2000 mi on the clutch, it will be obvious when it comes out, and they're good for many more miles than that!

If the clutch causes problems later, address the problems at that time.

If you change the disk, change the T/O bearing also. Changing the pressure plate is optional.

If you've never done a clutch, don't try a trans rebuild yet.

And again - don't let the "well I may as well..." monster get you!

Very good.
I'll get the hopefully decent box.
Pull mine.
Examine clutch parts renew or reuse depending on findings.
Oil Leak: not sure where the leak is coming from yet, but I'll do a clean and run and check to see if I can pin point it, then replace the offending oil seal.
Button her back up and hope to be good for a while.
BTW I occasionly have some pretty pronounced "judder" taking off in 1st, will examine clutch components of course but bad mounts could be the cause too, no? So I'll be sure and examine them closely as well and renew as needed.
Thanks again for the input.
Probably time to kill this thread as it has certainly departed from "'63 Midget Research" into gearbox area.
I'll start posting again from a new or similar old thread when I start in on it.

PS yesterday's run through the country side was simply incredible. I love it. I did drain and refill the differential yesterday before I left, was able to do it without jacking the car up, that's nice. Went with 80/90 gear oil I believe, which should be alright no? At least there was something in there when I drained it! So it at least wasn't dry!!

Have to do a full lube and adjust brakes, if not rebuild them which is no big deal. Ebrake has WAY TOO much travel.

90 Wt is fine.

Replace the tranny and engine mounts while it is out if you have some judder. Cheep enough and easy fix.