For the record:
VIN GAN 2L 19251
Engine # 10cc DA-H 6925
So it's a later version 1098, that's good and supposedly the motor was all rebuilt during the restore (20 years ago!) Seems to run well but the header/Weber combo isn't tuned right I'm sure, I have the original twin SUs too.
Number on door jam (whatever it means: GBE 019346
I poked around the engine bay.
Mech fuel pump gone and blocked off, electric installed. Fuel regulator inline to Weber tagged: 721F DA A 4H 24
Chrome header (now a bit ratty).
Overall it's a kickass Midget and I'm embarrassed I freaked a bit on the 4th gear thing.

Now the real fun starts. Enjoy every moment.

I can't count the number of times I've freaked out about something during my work on the Tunebug. It's part of the process, I think. A good night's sleep seems to clear up those jitters. Sometimes it takes a couple of nights.

Im freakin out right now!!!!! paint..... ......z

Which Weber is this? a 32/36?
721 F??
not finding much out yet.......

All Weber 32/36s are about the same with slight modifications. Such as manual, electric or water choke. Right or left throttle shaft rotation, different jet sizes for various engines, etc, etc.
One or more of the fellows with midgets here can give you the best advice on which Weber to use. I think there are three basic 32/36s for MG Midgets. I could be wrong on this though.

As a former Opel head, Webers were the order of the day. 32/36 are common although I had upgraded to a 38/38 before the wreck (I pulled the 38 off before the salvage man came to call). It "looks" like a 32/36 to me but I'm just going by the tag, haven't looked for numbers on the carb body yet. Which carb is best for this motor and header I have no idea, that's WAY down the list of concerns, first the fluids as obviously those were neglected, then the lighting (no brake lights, no headlights-in fact with the custom dash and switches, it's quite a nightmare) then go through the brakes. Then decide which way to go on the gearbox. Maybe I'll just go right to a 5 speed, I know NOTHING about that upgrade, although it was in the master plan on my Opel too......I can't really see the little 1098 needing a 5th gear, how fast would one intend to cruise in these things? I was chuggin along at 45mph turning 4500rpm or so on the way home. Previous to the loss of 4th I was cruising at 65 and was quite content. Still can't believe the gearbox was bone dry and got me home. Way in the future, I'll want a stereo in it. Nothing too obtrusive, the one out of my Opel is waiting.

What could it be I wonder? I think the motor and tranny are coming out even for something "simple".
Detent ball? It's just like there's a metal block where 4th should be. No getting into fourth under any circumstance, rolling, sitting nothing. I never heard a grind or a snap or anything, just out she popped, got it back in once then never again.

yeas there are detent ball/bullets in there.....
i got a bullet backwards last summer when i rebuilt
mine and it stuck in neutral all the time....
now my clutch is needing fixed from holding it too
much....
you could be looking at a very cheap/easy repair....z

Cheap maybe but easy? How the heck did that box run dry for so long? Oil is optional I guess, you only need it if you want your gearbox to last longer than 20 miles? Having never dug into a tranny, my opinion is meaningless but I'd sure think you'd hear something nasty if you destroy hard parts, no? I imagine the lack of oil led to heat and some small part failure. Probably lucky as heck more things didn't get destroyed in the rest of the run.
Note to self: even if a prospective car is in use don't assume it's road worthy, check the fluids (even the hard to get to ones) before you drive it home.
When I got my Opel (shipped in) it had supposedly been in regular use but only 1 of the four brakes were operational! The rears obviously hadn't been functional in a long long time. Starting over. I have to figure out the whole wonderful world of spoke wheels too. Knock offs, what a riot! I suppose one just knocks off the spinner.....
Luckily the PO (does that stand for Previous Owner in this forum too?) gave me a ton of manuals. Haynes, Climer and tons more, I had still had one from 20 years ago too, in fact, I'm pretty sure I can put my hands on a dashpot wrench.
Sorry to be so prolific, bit excited over here. I promise to settle down only post meaningful stuff.....eventually.

[quote=jvandyke I promise to settle down only post meaningful stuff.....eventually. [/quote]

actually this is about as meaningful as it gets. I know I haven't even begun to plumb the depths of my own shallowness. And that's why I love it here!

There is lots to learn, but that's what we're here for. When I started my journey into the land of LBCs 3 years ago (geesh, has it been that long?) I knew nothing and had no experience. Now I've got 3 years of experience and still know nothing!

Seriously, though, this group will help you with the specific stuff you don't know. Your general mechanical knowledge will mostly apply, which puts you ahead of the game -- I had to start at the beginning. These are fun little cars to work on, so dig in and enjoy.

Given that the box was sooo dry (gearbox capacity is 2.7 U.S. pts!), it would be a very good possibility that one of the detent "balls/bullets" has actually stuck in the wrong spot! With the fresh oil (and a bit of luck!) the problem may resolve itself with a bit of persistence and TLC!!! (Maybe a little Marvel Mystery Oil could also help!!)

Never doubt the power of MMO

Amen to that Rick!!! I had a noisy idler pully on my Ford E150 (bearing going bad!)...a few drops of MMO and I haven't heard it squeek in two weeks!!!