The front side cover has a cracked lug onto which the generator attaches. There seems to be quite a range in replacement costs: $140 to $250 BJ8. Is there anything to watch for or avoid quality wise? Anyone try to weld the lug back on?

The front cover on mine was reparied when I bought the car. It appears to have been brazed. The ears are strong and I have 2500 miles on the bracket. It may have more but the car was a basketcase when I got it.

To answer you question yes they can be repaired. Cast iron can be weled with the correct method. I am not that good of a welder but someone on this board may be.

Good Luck
Kevin R

Update: The broken lug appears to have been caused by overtightening the generator mount bolt and the sizeable gap between the lug and the mount.

Does your generator have a 3/16 gap between the lug and the mount? Are there any washers in between the to fill the gap?

Welding shop recommended welding rather than brazing for added strength. Charged $45.00.

I'd put a spacer in to fill the "gap",mine has, not as big a gap, however check the belt is running true over the three pulleys, or it will throw, on tightening belt adjustment, I think its a 1/2" overall movement on the longest side of the belt

Since the mount is cast steel, it's not going to bend. Tightening against any gap, could cause a crack. I think the procedure is to tighten one side firmly, front or back as needed for alignment and then the other side just a little or use a bolt with a shoulder that extends beyond.

I notice Moss shows different bolts for front and back. Anyone know what the difference is - length or shoulder to be correct. Where is Mr. Concors? (not that I have been known to be correct.)

Look closely at a Lucas alternator mount sometime.

The front aluminum ear is firmly clamped to the mounting bracket, as normal.

The rear alternator ear has a steel sleeve insert which is somewhat wider than the ear itself. The bracket is a bit narrower than the alternators ear to ear inside spacing.

When the rear mounting bolt is tightened, the steel insert slides inside the alternator ear & is drawn up to the mounting bracket by the bolt head. No side bending pressure is placed on either front or rear alternator ears or the mount. The rear ear floats lengthwise on the steel sleeve. A self adjusting "spacer" in effect.

A very simple & effective way to mount the alternator without danger of breaking the ears.

The same concept could easily be adapted to a generator. It wouldn't even show if concours is desirable. Simply drill the rear generator mounting ear oversize & insert a short steel sleeve that is slightly longer than the generator's rear ear width.
D

Good idea. I'll bet the Healey had some way to address the issue and the sleeve or special bolt is long lost on some garage floor. I'd like to know how they did addressed it originally.

The plate on my car has been welded up, who ever did it made a reasonable job, but you can see where it was.

Bob