I have put about 500 miles on my freshly rebuilt (frame off rotisserie restoration) 1962 BT7 (and it has been fun). This was my actual car in high school, but that was well over 23 years ago, and I have forgotten a few things. Also, I changed a couple of things in the restoration, so I'm wondering if what I'm experiencing is "normal."

First, I'll start with an easy one...

The trafficator is not canceling on right turns anymore, and this is after only a few hundred miles. Also, the trafficator assembly moves around a little.

I did change from a fixed to adjustable steering (bought an adjustable steering box and had it rebuilt) during the restoration, so I also purchased a NOS (not a current production) trafficator assembly. Besides the larger horn button, I don't remember the trafficator ever moving (turn signal was always at 12:00 when off), and I don't remember the turn signal cancel feature not working.

Now the shop owner that did my rebuild told me this is quite typical of the adjustable trafficators (he said they had to move as they were adjustable - which I easily accept for telescoping, but side to side? - and he said because they were "designed to move," most every one he had ever seen, the turn signal cancel buttons don't work for long), but I would like to get other feedback. Should the trafficator be "moving"? Is there a way to keep the signal cancel feature working, even if it means replacing the assembly with a new or aftermarket one?

I still have my old steering box and trafficator, but don't want to have to go through having it rebuilt and swapped out, plus I think there would also be some issues with my steering wheel (a beautiful 100S replica by Mike Lempert).

If this is normal, then I'll learn to live with it. But if it's not, I really want it right.

Advice appreciated (and more questions to follow soon - car is really just "breaking in," so a few things are loosening up and need some attention).

Thanks!

bt7tricarb, these things have always been problematic i agree but moving side to side is a new one to me, i have a bj7 all original never molested teli. set up and mine still works 98% of the time and does not move side to side.

The whole assembly moves, or just the indicator lever?, sounds like loose screws

I have adjustable steering, and mine is stable, no right to left movement.

Now lets look at the problem sensibly, yeah.

The bit that you see in the centre of the steering wheel, the horn button and surround should stay in the one position, this is because it has a short stator tube with ribs that locate into corresponding slots in the long stator tube that is, or should be, firmly clamped to the bottom of the steering box with that nut and olive configuration. The bit that should move is firmly fixed inside the boss to the steering wheel by the three grub screws around the edge of the steering wheel boss. Now, if you have movement on the piece that you can see then one of three things has happened, either the nut and olive at the bottom of the column is loose or worse still, the moveable joint between the stator tube and the horn/signal short stator tube is damaged. Or possibly, there is heavy sticking between the inner and outer sections of the Horn indicator/short stator section. So in order - check the nut at the bottom of the steering box. Check the grub screws around the steering wheel boss, if that is ok and tyhe problem persists - it would be wise to bite the bullet and remove the whole thing out of the steering column and check out the joints, and also the rotation of the different parts of the upper stator and indicator / horn.

Just re read your article, do you now have the large or small horn button? it is slightly unclear, it should be small. And by the way, I put a new horn / signal system into my car 5 years ago and I have had no trouble with it.

Best of luck

Bob

Methinks long/short stator tubes do not overlap, mines a BN1, so slightly different

And the olive betwixt the nut and and steering box

It's not normal, or average. It shouldn't be moving side to side. Granted some wear will 'eventually' ease the ability of the trafficator to return to 12 o'clock, but not after just 500 miles, not if it was really like new. FWIW

Thanks for the replies so far. I DO have a smaller horn button now.

Yes the whole assembly (horn button and all) can be easily "twisted" side to side (or I should say left to right). Not far, but no doubt that it can be moved a few degrees left and right... I also wondered if this had anything to do with the cancel feature of the turn signal.

I guess the "side to side" description may be a little off. What I do mean is that the whole assembly moves. Don't know how to describe it, but it turns (again, the whole assembly, horn button included) to where the traffic signal button can point anywhere in the range from about 10 - 11 o'clock to 1 - 2 o'clock in the "off" position. You can move it to the 12 o'clock position, but there is some movement on it's own when the weel is turned.

Does this change any of the answers, or is it still wrong for this type of movement?

IMHO, that ain't right!

I believe what you mean is that it is turning with the rotation of the wheel. My BN7 had that problem, and although I haven't finished the restoration, I have removed the trafficator and stator, My stator tubes weren't hooking up - the ends were mangled allowing the trafficator to turn with the wheel movement. If the long stator tube is fixed up front, look at where they are supposed to lock together - what is it, about seven or eight inches into the shaft ?

As for cancelling, I believe there are tabs inside the unit that do the cancelling, but perhaps the wholesale turning of the unit isn't allowing them to do their job properly. I once tried taking one apart. I had springs poping and tiny screws that I couldn't get back in. However, I had no idea what I was doing. Now there is at least one guide someone put up on a site. I'll look for it if you need.

Regards,
Mike Lempert

It reinforces the fact that there is a problem. The horn button and the surround should not rotate, once the indicator lever is moved over to left or right, that too should not move any more until the turn is completed and then it should cancel and return to the 12 o'clock position once / or as, the steering has been straightened up. It could be that the longer stator tube has snapped and is no longer connected to the upper tube allowing friction with the steering wheel to take over and turn the horn etc.

I suggest that you take the bull by the horns ( SORRY ) and pull the lot out then you can see for sure what is going on, about a few hours work to remove it, then a few more to put it back. If long stator tube has disengaged itself from the short one due to breakage, you may have trouble in removing it, try jambing the wires into the bottom of the tube so that the tube must come up out of the column as you withdraw the horn and indicator mechanism.

Bob

bt7tricarb, the short answer... bring it back to the nucklehead that put it in before the weather gets nice!

Well, I just got back from the shop that did the restoration and:

1 - Apparently, the trafficator is supposed to move (rotate) a little on adjustable steering wheels... I even saw about four other cars while there, and they all moved about 1/4 inch. Mine, however, was moving a bit more and it was the strator (long) tube. A few turns at the steering box solved it.

2 - As far as my turn signal cancel feature, a few squirts of WD-40 had it working again... for a little while. It was explained (and with a disassembled trafficator as a visual, I understand) that the little springs had been sitting there for years without use and either they rusted up a bit or the grease they were lubricated with has dried and "gouped" up a bit. I'll continue to lube it with WD 40 until it frees up permanently. If it doesn't eventually free up, I'll consider if it's worth it to have it disassembled, cleaned, and reassembled. It's expensive and certainly something I'm not willing to tackle. But the good news is: IT DOES WORK (sometimes...).

Thanks for all the advice and I'll check out a few more at the shows this summer.

My entire trafficator rotates 90 degrees or more as the wheel is turned. Adjustable wheel, BJ8. No, its not right. I seem to recall taking it apart and determining the short stator goes into a slot which is mangled. I suspect that is your problem. Someone forced it expanding the slot allowing it to rotate.

As for the cancel, my switch won't stay where it is pushed. Push it to 2:00 while driving straight ahead and it pops back to 12:00. This is caused by the notches being worn. Springs push the pins into a notch which wears. This is common.

Try lub other than WD-40. It is not a real lubricant. When it dries you got what you started with. Use something like sewing machine oil (no parafin in it).

Here is a link to some good trafficator disassembly photos
http://www.justbrits.com/Articles/Traffic_Stills.html

BT7Tricarb,

This is a link to a piece I prepared on the adjustable steering wheel control head (trafficator). It uses some of Tracy's photos (with permission and approbation), and I added a number of my own. It contains a fair amount of narrative on the assembly procedure. It is hard to tell without looking at the car, but I think it sounds like your stator tube might be mangled where the two tubes connect. You can pull the tube up through the steering wheel to check it out.

This link will take you to the control head pdf. Click on it to download. It will take a little while as it is a big file.

http://homepage.mac.com/WebObjects/FileS...=US&lang=en


Good luck and cheers!

Lin
1960 BT7 "The Bloody Beast"
1959 AN5 Bugeye

The cancel mechanism relies on the horn and surround being fixed and stationary and this is done via the stator tube sliding connection and the nut and olive at the base of the steering box. as you have movement then the sliding connection between the two tubes ( upper short one and the lower long one ) is shot. You will need to pull the lot out of the steering column and examine that sliding junction. Tha is always assuming that the nut and olive is tight at the bottom of the steering box.

Bob

Problem after changing to a new wheel.

I followed the great instructions and pictures in this thread and changed my wheel. I used the instructions that detached the wires at the trafficator, instead of pulling through the stator tube. I thought all went well, but now, my directional signal will only work if I push and hold the directional lever all the way to the right or left. If I release the lever, the lever moves a fraction of an inch towards the center and the indicator light stop blinking. The lever will cancel & move all the way to center as it should when the wheel is turned back after the turn.

Is there something about the reassembly that I missed? or needs readjusting?

Johnski

John, bad timing with a week to go 'till SD. I assume you are not up in Tahoe now or you'd have been by. Is your stator tube lined up properly? Do you have the little tabs in the right direction (check against pictures) and do you have the cancel bar that hits those tabs at the bottom (its on the silver disc). Call me. Or we can look at in down there.

Pull the trafficator out until it disengages from the stator. Slide back in making sure it lines up with the slots. Trick: push the stator up from the bottom so you can see where the slots are. You may have to loosen the olive and rotate the stator to get the slots in a position that lets the trafficator point up. If the olive nut is loose, the trafficator will rotate.

Watch the grub screws on the trafficator. Sometimes people replace them with ordinary allen screws instead of the original pointed ones. Those drag and get hung up causing the traffictator to rotate.

The switch not staying in the turn position due to wear where the paw goes over the plastic like hump in the switch mount. Only solution is to get a replacement mount.