Having been in the process of reassembling my BJ-7 I installed the doors only to find that the top exterior chrome door trim was longer, by nearly 1/2", than the opening at the rear of the door and overlapped the chrome finisher at the top of the rear wing. Also the door molding sat approx. 1/2" lower than the fender molding piece.

This leads me to believe that I am encountering frame sag and I wonder if I were to jack up the center of the frame rails so as to eliminate the sag and then bolt a section of 3/16" plate to either side of the frame rails between the front and rear outrigger, to act as a stiffener, what effect that might have on the function of the car.

I would appreciate any advice regarding this idea.

Thank you,

robert

Can you say what has been done beforehand. Is it just being reassembled or has there been welding work done?

Personally I don't think what you are suggesting will stop any sag. It may also be pretty obvious if you come to sell.

If the door is sagging it may be play in the hinges or just a question of getting the position correct with some packing behind the lower hinge. The rear edge of the door slopes backwards quite a lot, so the hole where the door goes is longer at the top than the bottom. Raising the door (or rotating it about the top hinge with packing under the lower hinge) will move the rear higher up to a wider position where the chrome trim will have more room to fit.

hope this is halfway clear. Should have had a drink first..

Richard

Robert, is the motor/trans in place?? Suspension(s)??


Ed

Sounds like you definitely have some frame issues. It is hard to tell if you can fix it without seeing some photos of the frame and the door fit. Is there any evidence of any prior repairs to the frame? How rusty is/was the top of the fram rails in the passenger compartment? What is/was the condition of the original outriggers and the frame behind them?
Bolting a 3/16 plate on the bottom will not do any good. First, it will stick out like a sore thumb to any future potential buyer and tell them that the frame has serious issues. If you want to strengthen in any way, the best method is to get a 1/8 inch plate inside the frame rails on the veritcal plane and plug weld it to the old frame once you have it twisted to the right shape. This would need to go al the way between the outriggers to do any good. All this must be done with the engine, trans and rear end in place.

Another thought. What is the condition of your sills? If these are rotted or weak the frame will sag significantly.

The problem with doing that is changing the gap of the bottom of the door to rocker panel. It will also change the gap between the door and front fender. Just trading problem areas as it were.

Hi Robert,
I agree with everyone for more info on the state of the car, are the inner fenders welded on, sills: new or original? A photo of the area would help a lot, maybe the whole door as a starter.

Robert, it has been explained to me that this "light wait" frame design maintains its strength in the sides of its box design, how does this area look to you? have you gone around and tried to poke a sharp tool through any area of the frame? i.e. top, sides, bottom etc, one really can not tell its integrity until doing so.

Thank you all for your responses.
The outriggers, side rails, sills, and floor panels and foot wells were replaced, by me, quite some years ago. The frame is without rust and in good shape. the engine, transmission, rear end and all body panels with the exception of the doors have been painted and are on the car.

I think that what might have happened was that when I cut the old outriggers, sills and frame rails away I neglected to measure carefully when welding in the new ones, and, without their support to lock the main frame in place the frame sagged.

Unfortunately I had no previous experience with this type of work, took an auto body class at the local college, and just tore into it without really understanding all the issues involved. Everything seemed to work out although when I first trial fitted the doors, years later, there was a gap problem and I had to do some modification to the doors to eliminate the problem, without considering that a more comprehensive solution was necessary. Everything otherwise seemed to fit until I installed the doors and then attached the door top chrome and discovered it was longer than the opening and 1/2" below the top of the chrome end cap on the rear wing front.At first I considered cutting down the trim piece and re-chroming it but also the front wing window frame hits the windshield frame when the doors close so I won't get off so easily.

Upon further thought I too realized that just jacking up the frame won't work as the frame is locked in position by the side rails and sills. My latest idea is to cut through the sills and side rails and then jack up the center of the frame, open the gap and re-weld the sections back together. I can see no other possibility to open up that gap at the top.

As is usual with much I do, my enthusiasm and overconfidence got the best of my good sense. If all I wanted out of this car was a perpetual sculptural project I suppose that's what I seem to have accomplished.

Steve,
Re. the suggestion
"If you want to strengthen in any way, the best method is to get a 1/8 inch plate inside the frame rails on the veritcal plane and plug weld it to the old frame once you have it twisted to the right shape. This would need to go al the way between the outriggers to do any good. All this must be done with the engine, trans and rear end in place."
I'm not sure I understand. Do you mean weld it to the outer frame rails or to the main frame members. Please discribe more thoroughly what you suggest.

Thank you all for the assistance.

Robert

Robert

You state that you have you modified the doors as well to try to get a fit, have you trimmed the edges down in some way? I do not understand how the door chrome can all of a sudden be long.

Regarding jacking up the centre of the chassis, first of all, this should only be attempted if it is required, they can and do bend over the years, Chatham did it to my first car when he did the rebuild but it was done during the rebuild, not after to get the doors to line up. Chain down the ends to the concrete floor and jack up the centre sections a tad.

Has the A post and bulk head rotated, this would cause the drop in the doors and the closing up of the gap at the top of the doors.

Bob

Bob,

It isn't that the chrome finisher is too long, it's more that the top of the door opening is smaller, due to the frame sagging and, my lack of care/knowledge when removing and replacing the outriggers, sill and the frame behind the sill.

My thinking is that by cutting through the center of the sill and back frame I will remove the structural support to the frame which would allow me to position it correctly and then re-weld.

Currently I am in the analysis stage and would appreciate any further input.

Robert

Hi Robert,
If I understand you correctly, no amount of frame bending will make the shortened door long enough to fit the door trim. With regards to the wing window, you may be able to adjust the windshield for a better fit. I’m still unclear what the gaps around the door are like; front bottom and rear. How much material did you take off the door? Was it the ½” you’re dealing with now, or less?

Oh yeah, and PICTURE!
That could be the difference in a wrong diagnosis.

This could be an easy fix. It may be that the rear shroud is too high, instead of the door being too low. My shroud has a natural tendency to spring upward and there is a fair amount of play in relation to the inner fender. You may be able to loosen the three front-most fender bolts and push the shroud downward.

Greg,
I'll try to take some photos tomarrow.

I tried adjusting the window vent frame to fit properly however it wouldn't adjust enough to do the job.

When the door closes it fits the opening, (as I trimmed the door edge down) however the top rear of the chrome finisher overlaps the top fender finisher end cap by 1/2" (although the actual top edge flange on the door, which the trim piece is connected to by the folded over channel of the trim piece, is the correct length for the finisher. The problem seems to be that the door opening is smaller at the top than at the bottom. What I should have done was to correct the door opening and not trim the door thinking that would correct the problem, although it seemed to correct the problem of the door fitting the opening until I attached the trim piece and discovered that it didn't fit and couldn't easily be shortened to also fit the opening.

As I remember, the rear shroud bolts fit the bolt holes in the inner fender so I don't see how it could be lowered, unless I drilled new holes in either the shroud or the fender.

What are your thoughts about cutting the sill and what is behind it (I don't remember what it's called. Is it the outrigger?) adjusting the top opening and re-welding?

Robert