Good to start with the vent window, but I meant the windshield. See if that can be angled up a little.


That could get ugly if you've welded the floor to the sill, all those welds would have to be removed.

Here's a question; How level is the trunk floor? The wide piece that is welded to the rear frame and rivets to the shroud . I'm wondering if it slopes up as it goes rearward towards the shroud. What may have happened is the inner fenders were welded with the rear being too high, that would account for the door gaps being OK except for where you trimmed.

Hi Robert, I have been in the assessment stage of evaluating my Healey body and frame for about a month or more now. I'm really sorry to hear about your plight. But hopefully there will be some adjustment capability with out having to resort to cutting the frame apart again. firstly, I would make sure that the chrome finishers can't be moved to allow more clearance. even if you have to route out some screw holes to do it. The vent window frame and the windshield frame should allow some movement in their mounting to see if you can gain anything there. (all this is assuming that the frame really hasn't saged much). If the frame really has saged enough to reduce the door openning by 1/2 inch, then I would seriously have reservations about its integrity and strength. Aside from that, lets just see if you can sag or flex the frame. to do this , I would loosen the engine and trans mounts. Then put some cribbing or wooden shoring across the frame rails in the middle from underneith and put the jack under that. then hoist away and see if the door opennings open up.
Another point. When assembling a body, the position of all panels is considered dubious until you positon them all to get the correct gaps at every joint. If you have installed one panel,fender,etc, one at a time and tightened them up as you went, then found that the final openning was not right, (this case being your door opennings) Then I would suggest loosen them all and moving them around a bit.
I hope it is not your frame. The only real way tofix that, is the right way. TAKE IT ALL APART.

Robert: It might help to know what was done to the car since the last time you know for sure that everything actually fit. For instance, when you first started, was the car complete and assembled with reasonable gaps all around? If so, maybe you can trace, step by step, what was done since that time. Got any "before" pictures, and in progress shots?

A possible suggestion would be to get the beast on a frame machine, with a knowlegeable technician. Could be that a proper tug here and there might help. Also, is the problem the same on both sides? Some pictures surely would help.

Some data:
The door measurements are:
Left side: top-29 7/8" bottom-30 7/8"
Right side: top-29 3/4" bottom-30 7/8"

Door opening:
Right side: top-30 1/8" bottom-30 13/16"
Left side: top-30 3/16" bottom- 31 1/4"

As it was more than 20 years ago when I began I don't remember jut how well everything fit but it seems as if the doors must have fit the openings as I remember I could close them both.
Shortly after getting the car I replaced the floor panels (both sides), sills(both sides, foot wells (both sides) sill backing (both sides). I believe I did this with the frame (not the suspension) supported with jacks.

Last summer I modified the doors by cutting them down to match the openings.

IF ANYONE CAN TELL ME THEIR MEASUREMENTS FOR DOORS (TOP & BOTTOM) AND DOOR OPENINGS (TOP & BOTTOM I WOULD APPRECIATE IT.

Enclosed images. If anyone would like more or more clearly done let me know.

Robert

More photos

more photos:

In the bottom one the matching body line is slightly lower on the door but, if I added shims to bring it up the wing window frame, which already is too tight to fit, wouldn't fit at all (see vent photo above post)

Taking a solid rule and using a level, the door openings of my BJ7 measures 30 1/2 inches on both sides of the car. The door opening is parallel and does not make a difference if it is the top, middle or bottom. I have my BJ7 presently on a frame jig so the frame is level. All door opening measurements were taken level.

It looks like there may be something a bit amiss with that rear shroud finisher. The bottom should be right on top of the fender bead, yours looks to be about a 1/2 inch above. Either that or the finisher itself is the wrong dimension. Was the rear shroud ever off the car? If so, was the front pushed down as far as it could go when it was reinstalled? The door does not look to be that far off at the swage line.

I measured the top of my door yesterday and also got 30½”. I agree with Steve that your shroud is too high where it meets the door (top of shroud to top of fender distance is too great). I’m not sure what you mean by sill backing? It is possible that when you replaced the sills, the rear inner fender may have shifted on you and was welded back in a different spot.

First thing I’d do, is get the wheels on the car and get it on the ground. That could change a lot of things.

One other thing, the chrome trim that goes around the rear of the shroud, are all the screws holding it in? If you squeeze it against the shroud, does it move at all? Any slack will make it project forward towards the door.

Greg.

What I mean by sill backing is the front to back box section welded between the rear and front inner fender. What is it actually called? I'll check out all the issues mentioned. Unfortunately my trimming of the doors shouldn't have been done & I suppose that I'll have to grind them down and add the width that I removed.

Ho hum, one step forward, two steps back.

Thanks again for the aid!

Robert

OK, I think what you're calling the sill is the rocker panel. The sill back is the sill. See the Moss ill. if I got it right. This is probably the most frustration part of a restoration. I've been and still am to a certain degree, right where you are. So I know how you feel.

The door opening is determined by the location of the hinge pillar and the shut fact pillar. If you replaced the rockers, you necessarily cut the bottom of these pillars from the rockers. Improper relocation of these parts after installing new rockers would account for an improper opening width at the bottom. Too wide an opening at the top could be a function of frame flex. Place the car, fully assembled, on its wheels and measure the top opening again. If the opening decreases significantly then, you are dealing with a flexing frame. The frame can be reinforced from the inside, by opening a hole, insering a properly sized length of angle iron, and plug welding at intervals, closing the opening afterwards.

If the pillars are incorrectly installed, they can be cut from the rockers and re-positioned. Caution, here, though. The pillars in part determine the position of the fenders. This operation calls for careful fitting and checking of panel fit beofre committing to final welding.

If either or both of the above are the problem, I would certainly advise getting someone to do the job who has the knowledge, experience and patience to do it right. This is neither simple, quick nor inexpensive.

Getting the doors to the right size shouldn't be too big of a problem.

I hope I'm wrong about the above, but with the history of rocker relplacement, odd opening measurements and the prior need to modify the doors, this just doesn't seem to be a quick fix problem.

Just remembered something. The pillar location is not solely determined by their location on the rockers. You can replace the rockers without cutting the pillars completely loose, so all the above may not be the problem. Hope not.

I just discovered these excellent tutorials on replacing sills, A & B pillers and all related sections. They are for restoration on an Aston-Martin but the process is similar for the Healey.

http://www.aston-v8.co.uk/
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/sills.htm

Robert

Robert Ellison, thanks for the Aston martin stuff really helps to clarify things, i have a similar situation as far as door gaps on my 63 bj7 that i managed to correct by shimming the door but i know more attention is needed on the r/s passenger door, ive been to a couple of local body shops and showed them my car but could not agree on how they proposed to address the issue and their prices way off the charts, like they say if you want it done right do it yourself.