Hi Genii! Quick ? When replacing the Lucas spade stoplight switch..Would it be necessary to bleed the braking system afterwards? Hope not!!! Cheers, David

You could try putting a piece of Saran wrap type plastic film between the reservoir cap and reservoir to seal the cap and keep the brake fluid from running out when you change the switch. This should help a bit when you change the switch but you will probably still need to be quick when making the change.

Cheers,
John

No I have never had to do anything but replace the switch. However, with some of these new switches it is necessary that you prime the switch prior to installing it or it may require excessive pressure to function. Similarly, High failure rates in the new switches has been traced to faulty contacts. It appears that the contacts will not handle the switching current. For these cases a relay has been found effective in controlling the failures.--Fwiw---Keoke

Brilliant John & K! Thanks muchly! Any info. on the relay situation and installation greatly appreciated as I think this may be necessary (current switch is only a couple of "seasons" old!. Cheers, David

You could install a mechanical brake light switch and it might actually keep your car from being rear ended. The mechanical switch makes contact as soon as you touch the pedal and this gives the cars behind you a lot more time to react. Easy to install and of course...you can return it to original.
Patrick

OK,Patrick..sounds interesting..Any suggestions on type of switch..installation etc. Thirty five years ago when I still had my original Healey,I bought a house at the bottom of a steep hill with a right-hand turn into the driveway. Ancient English hand-signals have saved my rear too many times to count (why do they want to overtake on the inside???) so perhaps it's time to upgrade the technology!! (But does this mean I can no longer ask 150 grand for the car??) Cheers, Happy Healey weekend, David

David -

Upon the advice of others on this board, here is what I installed in three of my toys:

http://www.watsons-streetworks.com/brake_switches.html

Works great!!!

P.S. I did this shortly after an F-250 almost ran over me in the '59 Bugeye.

Okay Dave,
I had to dig through several magazines, but I found the article.It was in the Healey Marque May 2006 mag and was written by Dave Carpenter. The switch came from Watson Streetworks in Connecticut. See the next reply on this subject for a link to the website. It was fairly easy to install. I didn't have to do any wire splicing and just used electrical spade adapters where needed including jumpering the hudraulic switch on my BJ8.
Like Dave C., I opted to have the brake light come on as soon as the slack is off the pedal. You can and should still ask $150k for your car especially with the new and improved brake light function.
Patrick

I also have one. Works great, no more problems. Making a custom bracket was a bit of a chore but worth the trouble.

Thanks for the research Patrick and the website John...I'll work it all out and go ahead...Funny thing happened today..ran over a newly painted and unmarked road line and the car is black..language not suitable for this forum!!! Cheers,David.

Ed,
Did you happen to document the bracket design. I am thinking of putting this switch on my BJ8 and don't want to re-invent the wheel if I don't have to.

Thanks,
Frank

Davis,
I wonder what the guy said when he saw your tire tracks in his newly stripe?
Patrick

I have this old picture of a nearby part that also shows the switch arm extending down and resting on top of the brake pedal arm. You can just see the end of the bracket to the right of the open heater vent flap. There are two bolts holding the bracket onto the bottom of the area to the left of the steering column support and to the right of the brake pedal. The bracket is a piece of steel that by using trial and error, I cut into a rough shape, bent to the correct angle to fit into the space, welded a sharp transition to strengthen it at a vulnerable place and then I drilled a couple of mounting holes to fasten the switch and a couple more that fasten the bracket to the car. If I get some time, I'll get a better shot of the bracket.

Thanks Ed. The switch is on order and I haven't really climbed under the dash to figure the mounting out yet. One question ... is your custom bracket screwed to the bottom of the heater duct or somewhere else?

Thanks again for your help.

Frank,

It's not attached to the air plenum.

I've been busy this week but I will try to get a

good shot of it looking up from the floor and post it.

Frank,

I snapped a couple of pictures from the floor straight up. As you can see, the bracket attaches with two screw through the sheet metal right outside the pedal box. Notice how the bracket holds the switch up inside the pedal box out of the way of everything. I ran the wires out the same grommet as the wires to the headlight dip switch. I also cut off the lower half of the adjustable arm that comes on the switch. I also added the big round piece of metal to provide a smoother surface between the top of the brake pedal and the switch actuator arm. In the engine compartment, right next to the steering column, near the edge of the pedal box, I drilled the two mounting holes. I waterproofed the bolt heads with black RTV once I mounted the bracket.

No disrespect meant, but here's a 2-dollar switch setup which I believe is less conspicuous, being smaller and attached to the front edge of heater air plenum. Have pix & info on my gallery:
http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/healey_tech

Yes Steve, that is a bit more appealing to me I like KISS designs.--- --Keoke

P.S. Nice web site

I'll try to get a couple of good shots of my installation for you this weekend too.
Patrick

Steve,
Nice job !
I am all for keeping it cheap and simple as possible.
Ed